Collectibles-General (Antiques)/Refinishing Walnut Veneer Table Top
Expert: Eileen Cronk - 11/16/2009
QuestionEileen,
I have an antique walnut table. I am sure the table top is a veneer. The previous owner put a glossy varnish on the table top that is coming off in sheets. The legs of the table are in beautiful original condition. I read your very detailed instructions written on 9/24/09 in response to the very humorous gentleman who wanted to refinish his antique mahogany table. The very one who stated that his sister had a go at the table with a ball pin hammer. Could I use this same process and materials that you suggested he use to refinish my walnut table top? Should I also not do any sanding?
Thank you for your help.
Mary
AnswerHi Mary
Nice to hear from you.
Wasn't that man a riot? What a wonderful sense of humor.
And yes you would use the same process and materials as I advised him to follow.
And no sanding.
Mary you will notice on your final rubbing with the steel wool that it is actually creating wood dust. This in actual fact is sanding but its all I recommend. You will see the results as you progress.
I am including for you the stripping and finishing process.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR STRIPPING Mary's walnut table or any furniture.
The first thing you must do is assemble the material to do the job.
The stripper is the most important item.
I am hoping you can get "CIRCA 1850" brand paint and varnish remover in your area.
Here is a link
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1694&familyN...
MATERIAL LIST For the stripping stage.
1 gallon stripper
3 boxes of Bull Dog steel wool in medium grade.
One 3 inch oil based paint brush.
Rubber gloves (like you do dishes with), and a pair of cotton gloves inside the rubber ones.
People react differently to stripper. A lot of people feel heat through the rubber gloves, but I feel cold. Have no idea why.
An empty large coffee can. (for the stripper)
A couple of old tooth brushes.
Lots of old rags (I like t-shirts or cotton but for this first stage whatever you have)
Lots of newspaper to protect the garage floor
LOTS OF VENTILATION..A MUST
That's all you need to get started.
HERES WHAT YOU DO...
Work in sections.
Brush on the stripper with the brush. Stripper will quit working if it dries, so keep it wet till the finish softens.
Then take a rag and wipe this mess off.
Then another coat of stripper, rag off again, then while the wood is still wet, take the steel wool and rub with the grain till the wood is nice and clean.
Depending on the material you are removing, another coat of stripper is often needed but you will know this as you progress into the job.
Use the toothbrush in crevices.
Thats all there is to it ...move to another section and continue.
No other prep is necessary...and DO NOT SAND
When the stripping is complete, stain with Minwax oil stain in Special Walnut color applied with a rag, then 2 or 3 coats of finish.
If your table will be heavily used Mary I would apply Minwax oil based fast drying poly in a satin sheen.
If the table is not used, you can apply as many coats as you like (but at least 4) of Circa 1850 brand low luster tung oil. Its applied with a rag and is a foolproof finish for us do it yourselfers. Another nice thing about tung oil is we can freshen it up at any time in the future by simply wiping on another coat. No surface prep necessary (just clean).
Please let me know if anything is not 100% clear.
Regards
Eileen