Expert: Eileen Cronk - 4/14/2010

Question
QUESTION: I see you've already advised another inquirer not to sand when refinishing a Cushman piece.  I also have a Cushman fold out game table that sadly was damaged by water.  What stains and varnishes would you recommend?  I've read that this is an impossible finish to match but the table is really ugly in it's present state! Thanks in advance for your expertise and advise.

ANSWER: Hi Jan
Nice to her from you.
This table needs refinishing.
That is a complete stripping of all existing finish and a new finish applied.
Here are the instructions
INSTRUCTIONS FOR STRIPPING FURNITURE
The first thing you must do is assemble the material to do the job.
The stripper is the most important item.  
I am hoping you can get "CIRCA 1850" brand paint and varnish remover in your area.
Here is a link
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1694&familyN

MATERIAL LIST For the stripping stage.
1 gallon stripper
3 boxes of Bull Dog steel wool in medium grade.
One 3 inch oil based paint brush.
Rubber gloves (like you do dishes with), and a pair of cotton gloves inside the rubber ones.
People react differently to stripper. A lot of people feel heat through the rubber gloves, but I feel cold. Have no idea why.
An empty large coffee can. (for the stripper)
A couple of old tooth brushes.
Lots of old rags (I like t-shirts or cotton but for this first stage whatever you have)
Lots of newspaper to protect the garage floor
LOTS OF VENTILATION..A MUST
That's all you need to get started.
HERES WHAT YOU DO...
Work in sections.
Brush on the stripper with the brush. Stripper will quit working if it dries, so keep it wet till the finish softens.
Then take a rag and wipe this mess off.
Then another coat of stripper, rag off again, then while the wood is still wet, take the steel wool and rub with the grain till the wood is nice and clean.
Depending on the material you are removing, another coat of stripper is often needed but you will know this as you progress into the job.
Use the toothbrush in crevices.
Thats all there is to it ...move to another section and continue.
No other prep is necessary...and DO NOT SAND...yet that is.
Jan the waterstains are the next thing you must deal with. They will need bleaching.
Here is the bleaching info
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/woodbleach.shtml
This site details what bleach to use.
When the stripping is complete, stain with Minwax stain applied with a rag, then your finish.
Please let me know if anything is not 100% clear.
Fairly easy project Jan but get back if you have problems
Regards
Eileen



---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks for your very detailed description of the stripping process. Can you advise what shade of stain is closest to Cushman red in the Minwax line, Cherry?  And would you recommend a tongue oil varnish that can be hand rubbed to approximate the Cushman finish?

Answer
Hi again Jan
You are very welcome.
Get the smallest cans of Minwax oil stain.
I am aiming more to a color called red maple. I would experiment by mixing in some Special walnut color. Start by mixing 1 tsp of each color. If its too brown, try 1 tsp maple and only 1/2 tsp walnut etc etc. Test colors on the underside.
I don't feel you can match the stain without mixing but experiment a bit.
A tung oil finish will be lovely, and its fool proof for us do it yourselfers.
Simply rub on several coats with a rag.
The beauty of this finish is it can be freshened at any time by simply rubbing on another coat.
It does not cloud or watermark like a lacquer finish and gives good protection to the wood.
You do not apply wax over a tung oil finish.
I like the Circa brand tung oil.
Best of luck
Eileen