Expert: Irene Schwall - 5/4/2010

Question
QUESTION: I have an old sewing box made from ivory with a navy blue initial on the outside of the case.  The initial looks like a D or a B.  It has several tools inside and is in immaculate condition.  All of the tools have flower markings on them and are also in great condition.  I have more pictures but it looks like i can only send one at a time.

ANSWER: Hello Tyler,
Thanks for contacting me.  You do not actually state what your query might be:)

Your fitted sewing box is indeed made from ivory and the provenance is France. To determine the exact date I will need you to look at the hallmarks and tell me what you see.

For gold you are going to see a small eagle head with a curved beak. There are different beaks so be sure to tell me if it is really curved on the end where you can actually see the top beak overlap the bottom one. Most likely the box dates 1847-1919 but I need to be sure of the guarantee of fineness mark.
If you can photograph the small guarantee or assay marks and also the maker's mark in a lozenge (diamond shape with four equal sides)that will help me.
BTW - after 1838 a maker's mark was required on French gold, silver and platinum.

Please send additional photos to me at: xtahoeviews@yahoo.com
1. The outside of the box.
2. The oblong flat parts of the clasp - check for a maker's name.
3. The actual hallmarks that you find on the needlework tools - if possible.

Open the needle case and on the flat neck you will see hallmarks.  The thimble will also be marked. Check the inside of the thimble - if you see what appears to be a blur or imperfection in the gold, tell me what you see.  This will determine if the item was exported.
I look forward to being of further assistance to you.
Regards,
Irene



---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I was wondering how much the box and tools were worth.:) I looked at the eagle haed very closely with a magnifying glass.  I do not have a camera that will take a picture that small.  The beak looks to be curved at a bout a 45 degree angle.  The inside of the thimble has a little nipple that looks to be scribble on.  THis was all the informaiton i could gather from the tools.

Answer
Hello Tyler,
Without actually having a good photo of the guarantee mark it is not possible for me to be 100% accurate on the date.
But, having collected, sold and researched these needlework sets I would have to say that the guarantee mark (your eagle) is for Paris 1847-1919. The rough mark on the inside of the thimble is known as a "Bigornes" or counter mark. These rough marks are actually pictures of insects and there are thousands of them.  For instance a weevil in a peanut-shaped punch means that the item dates June 1835-1864. A weevil in a square punch has been used since 29 June 1893.
Without having seen the maker's mark or initials - found in the diamond shape with 4 equal sides (lozenge)I cannot tell you who made the set, sorry.
As to value: A similar set was listed on eBay recently for $1,299 and it received no bids. It too had all matching pieces and dates to around the same period.  There is another set with 18K tools that is currently listed with three days to go before close of auction and the bids are up to $460 - reserve not met. Neither of these were in an ivory box which not cannot be sold on eBay.
Your best bet is to search on eBay to see what these sets are currently selling for.
If you wish to sell this set, you may contact me directly at xtahoeviews@yahoo.com and I can find a buyer for you. I sell on consignment as well as from my own collection.
Regards,
Irene