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Collectibles-General (Antiques)/Mahogany association inc.

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Question
Thanks again for your reply..
I started cleaning the hutch with mineral spirits and superfine steel wool as you recommended and the results are excellent!

I also have a three piece cherrywood veener bedroom set from the 1940's. The tops of all three pieces are heavily scratched but not deep enough to expose the plywood underneath.

Should I follow the cleaning/staining routine you recommended for the hutch (substituting cherrywood stain for golden oak) or is there another method for restoring cherrywood furniture?

Thanks for all your advice!
Bernard
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Followup To

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Hi Eileen,
I ran across your name while searching the web for information on "Mahogany association inc."
I inherited a 1940's "Break Front" (I guess it would be called a hutch in today's terms) from my parents after they passed away.
There is a sticker in one of the draws that says: "All exposed structural parts and plywood faces guaranteed genuine mahogany".
Is the wood genuine Mahogany or was the sticker a "sales pitch"?
I ask because the piece is scratched, dry, worn and dirty and I would like to know the best way to restore and clean it without totally stripping and sanding it.
I'm not an expert, but it looks as if it was stained to a medium/light brown color.

Answer -
Hi Bernard
Nice to hear from you.
Your hutch will be made of mahogany veneer over plywood.
As you probably know, veneer is very thin wood glued over the plywood.
So your hutch is genuine mahogany, but not solid mahogany.
Even though your hutch is not solid mahogany, I have found furniture of this era to be very well made in comparison to todays stuff, and it would certainly be nice to get it back to looking good.
Would you be willing to look at a product that I have never personally used but am getting rave reviews about?
Here is the link to view it.
http://www.drwoodwell.com/
If you do not want to try this product, then you can certainly do it with home remedies and its not too difficult.
1..give the piece a good scrub with mineral spirits using superfine steel wool as a scrub pad dipped in the spirits.
Dry with a clean rag as you go.
You will be amazed at the dirt this takes off.
Next get 2 of the smallest cans of Minwax stain at the paint store.
One can in "Special Walnut" and one in "Golden Oak" color.
Mix together and apply with a rag.
This could take up to 2 days to dry.
When dry a coat or 2 of low lustre tung oil applied with a rag. I like the Circa brand oil.
I choose the colors of stain by your description of the existing color. There is no need to totally color match the existing color and really just one of the colors I choose would do but once you use this method you will see that since we are not removing the existing finish, there will be no color change to that. And all we are covering are the scratches.
Hope this will help Bernard and please do not hesitate to get back to me if this is not 100% clear..I have a tendency to ramble LOL.
Kindest Regards
Eileen

Thanks for the suggestions, they were exactly what I was looking for. I even think you got the color combination right.
The hutch comes in two pieces top and bottom. The bottom part is the section that needs all the work. While a good cleaning would probably suffice for the top section. Do you recommend that whatever cleaning/staining I do to the bottom section I also do on the top part or can I just clean the top without staining?

Thanks!

Answer -
Hi again Bernard
In my opinion I think it would be best to do both sections.
And remember the stain will take a while to dry so don't panic at that point.
Get back to me if you run into problems.
Eileen

Answer
Hi Bernard
I usually treat all wood the same with the stain color the only variable.
I am glad to hear you are coming along well with the hutch.
I just want to mention something you may run accross when using the mineral spirits to clean.
On occasion after you clean with the spirits and when thats dry, you may notice some areas that look like they have white dust on them. I see this mostly in crevaces, but it can occur anywhere on the furniture.
Just disregard this and you will notice when the stain is applied the white will be gone.
Still haven't figured out the cause of this but it always happens somewhere.
I used to think it was dirt, and would go back over and back over an area but still it appeared. So just ignore and carry on.
I am so happy you are doing well.
Kindest Regards
Eileen

Collectibles-General (Antiques)

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Eileen Cronk

Expertise

I can answer most questions about the repairing and refinishing of all your old furniture items (the things we call antiques). I can also give you advice on what wood items to choose and what wood items to avoid at auctions, flea markets etc. I DO NOT give appraisals on antiques as this is not my field of expertise.

Experience

I have been repairing, refinishing and of course buying old furniture for the past 30 years. On any given weekend I can be found at auction sales or flea markets searching out a good buy. I have taken several courses in this area over the years, but I find "Hands On" learning to be the best teacher. I can help you avoid the pitfalls and problems of this wonderful rewarding craft.

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