Collectibles-General (Antiques)/refishing

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Question
i was given a 2 piece hall tree made of oak. it has been strained heavily. what would be the best way to strip this and to restore it. i was told once it was stripped to use tung oil on it. this is my first piece so any help would be appreciated. also there is a sticker on the back but all i can make out is mfg co grand rapids Michigan. how can i find out where and when this was made? thanks for your help
rich

Answer
Hi Rich
Nice to hear from you.
How great that you were given such a nice piece.
And oak is one of the nicest woods to refinish IMHO.
This will be a factory made piece, but my experience is that oak hall stands seem to be highly sought after in my neck of the woods, but certainly do not be afraid to dig in and refinish it to your liking.
Of course its impossible to tell who made this as you cannot read a lot of the label but don't get too concerned with that...just enjoy it.
Here are the details you need to do the project.
This should be a fairly easy first project for you to attempt as the finish is original.
The first thing you must do is assemble the material to do the job.
The stripper is the most important item.
The stripper I use is my Home Hardware house brand, but I think that you would not have Home Hardware if you are in the states.
I am hoping you could have CIRCA brand paint and varnish remover there.

MATERIAL LIST For the stripping stage.
LOTS OF VENTILATION
1 gallon stripper
6 boxes of Bull Dog steel wool in medium grade.
One 3 inch oil based paint brush.
Rubber gloves (like you do dishes with)
An empty large coffee can. (for the stripper)
A couple of old tooth brushes.
Lots of old rags (I like t-shirts or cotton but for this first stage whatever you have)
Lots of newspaper to protect the garage floor
That's all you need to get started…not much is it?
The stripper will be the most expensive item on the list..In Canada it runs around $25.00 a gallon. The stain and finish will only be around $20.00
HERES WHAT YOU DO...
Work in sections.
Brush on the stripper with the brush. Stripper will quit working if it dries, so keep it wet till the finish softens.
Then take a rag and wipe this mess off.
Then another coat of stripper, rag off again, then while the wood is still wet, take the steel wool and rub with the grain till the wood is nice and clean.
Use the toothbrush in crevices.
Often a third coat of stripper will be needed if the varnish is heavy.
Thats all there is to it Rich...move to another section and continue.
No other prep is necessary...and DO NOT SAND THIS piece. When the stripping is complete, stain with Minwax stain applied with a rag. Stain in your color choice. Even if you want the wood light, use a stain. This is important. Minwax makes a stain called Natural, which is no color, but my preference would be Minwax Golden Oak. Allow 12 hours for the stain to dry, then 3 coats of low lustre tung oil also applied with a rag.
Please let me know if anything is not 100% clear.
I know you can do this and be proud of the results.
Good Luck
Eileen  

Collectibles-General (Antiques)

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Eileen Cronk

Expertise

I can answer most questions about the repairing and refinishing of all your old furniture items (the things we call antiques). I can also give you advice on what wood items to choose and what wood items to avoid at auctions, flea markets etc. I DO NOT give appraisals on antiques as this is not my field of expertise.

Experience

I have been repairing, refinishing and of course buying old furniture for the past 30 years. On any given weekend I can be found at auction sales or flea markets searching out a good buy. I have taken several courses in this area over the years, but I find "Hands On" learning to be the best teacher. I can help you avoid the pitfalls and problems of this wonderful rewarding craft.

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