Expert: Juan Carlos Valencia - 9/1/2009

Question
After having studied abroad and travelled multiple times in Mexico to continue my study of the Spanish language, I am considering broadening my horizons and visiting another Latin American country. I am conversant in Spanish although I speak it with an accent--I have an Intermediate Level DELE, if that gives you any idea. I am considering travelling in Colombia although I would like to get some knowledgeable and balanced advice about the country and what it is like as a destination for travelers. My preference would be to attend a language institute and stay with a host family even if I am only in the country for a brief amount of time because I feel that is the best way to guarantee the opportunity to practice the language and truly experience the real culture. I would like to visit a part of Colombia that is representative of the mainstream culture rather than simply visit an area that is dominated by the tourist industry. The specific questions I have are outlined below:
1.    How would you describe the security situation in Colombia for foreign—particularly U.S. American—travelers? I know you probably hear this question all the time, and thus I apologize as I hate to come across as the average person who only associates Colombia with danger. Although I am aware there are risks in Colombia, I have also heard that under President Alvaro Uribe the situation has improved markedly and that the dangers are often exaggerated in the media and in Holly wood. The same horror-story tendency occurs to some degree with Mexico too. If it makes any difference, while I would maybe like to go out at night to the theatre, a restaurant, or cafe with any new friends I make there I don't care much for the bar or club scene and do not drink. Would this help keep me out of some of the danger zones? Any specific advice in relation to personal security would be much appreciated.  
2.    Do Colombians in general tend to view U.S. Americans and the United States positively or negatively? Is there a great amount of anti-Americanism in the country? The United States and Colombia have a complex relationship because of Plan Colombia and even the recent basing agreement, and I would imagine that some view us as an ally whereas others see us as simply meddling.
3.    Where would you recommend someone travel in Colombia if he wants to see “real” Colombia and not just the side of the country made for tourism?
Although Cartagena and the Caribbean coast would be interesting for the historical value of the former and the natural beauty of the entire region, I am afraid that the area might be overly touristy and give me the feeling that I am not experiencing the real country. In other words, I am not looking for the Colombian equivalent to Mexico’s Cancun or Acapulco. Perhaps Medellín or Bogotá would be a more mainstream location to visit in Colombia, although I am somewhat leery of the latter because of its immense size. Medellin seems to be a more moderate sized city. In Mexico, for example, I really enjoyed the time I stayed in Guadalajara but was glad that I only went to Mexico DF on daytime excursions from where I was studying in Cuernavaca. What suggestions would you have?

Thank you very much for your time and I look forward very much to your reply.

Answer
Dear Seth,

thank you for your very interesting, detailed and kind set of questions. I'm so glad that you wrote with so much politeness and cultural sensitivity.

Great that you are considering Colombia as a new location for improving your spanish language skills. It's not unusual. For years, other non-spanish speakers have defied stereotypes and real hazards to come to Colombia.

Our history, as regards to language, is very complicated. I wont try to make a synthesis now, but I could repeat the thing that some people say in Latin America: the spanish spoken in Colombia is very clear and there's a long tradition of linguists, grammaticians and scholars of language, that produced famous institutions like the Caro y Cuervo Institute.

Some answers to your questions:

1-Security

It has certainly improved. The 1990s were horrible. The media was not exaggerating. Things are better now in most areas of the country. There are certain rural areas (especially in the southern and the eastern borders) which still see guerrilla activity and from time to time, the guerrillas try to scare people in the big cities with cruel, random small bomb attacks. But I would say that things are really better now. Other rural areas are under control of right wing paramilitary groups with links to the army and even the government. Those areas are "safe" for foreigners and locals that are not protesting or defying the authorities. Drug trafficking has had a devastating impact on Colombia, increasing corruption, weakening democratic institutions and putting weapons in circulation in the big cities. But the age of the big cartels could be over, drug dealers are now mostly low key. There are some random incidents between gangs but if you are not involved with them, you would have to very unlucky to become a victim. Common theft is an ongoing problem, worsened by the availability of weapons. But at this moment, crime statistics in a city like Bogota, are below those of Washington D.C, New Orleans or Philadephia.

I would say that living in Bogota, Barranquilla, Cartagena, Bucaramanga, Manizales or Pereira is fairly safe for big cities in Latin America. You have to be careful, and dont walk around showing off jewelry or electronic gadgets. You have to make sure you dont get into rough neighborhoods, but then, you have eyes, speak the language and could ask the locals.

2-Perception of Americans

Not bad, especially after Obama's election. You will be perceived as a Gringo, and as such, people will think that you are a bit silly, have money to spare (they will try to charge you higher prices) but are a nice, charming person.

3-Places to go.

If you dont mind the "cold weather", the cloudy skies, traffic jams and big city life, Bogota is the place to go. It's not as big as Mexico city, it's gotten a lot better and there have been many recent articles in New York Times describing the highlights and wonderful transformations that the city has experienced recently. I wont recommend Cali nor Medellin. Crime is a bit higher there, people are more provincial. But then, the weather there is nicer and people are warmer and more colorful.

If you want a smaller city in a peaceful area with easy access to airports and other great trip destinations, I would consider Bucaramanga and Manizales. They are both "university" cities, not too big, with nice weather and good transport.

I hope that this answers most of your questions. If not, keep asking !

Saludos

JC