Expert: MRZ - 9/1/2009

Question
After having studied abroad and travelled multiple times in Mexico to continue my study of the Spanish language, I am considering broadening my horizons and visiting another Latin American country. I am conversant in Spanish although I speak it with an accent.
I am considering travelling in Colombia although I would like to get some knowledgeable and balanced advice about the country and what it is like as a destination for travelers. My preference would be to attend a language institute and stay with a host family even if I am only in the country for a brief amount of time because I feel that is the best way to guarantee the opportunity to practice the language and truly experience the real culture.
I would like to visit a part of Colombia that is representative of the mainstream culture rather than simply visit an area that is dominated by the tourist industry. The specific questions I have are outlined below:
1.   How would you describe the security situation in Colombia for foreign—particularly U.S. American—travelers? I know you probably hear this question all the time, and thus I apologize as I hate to come across as the average person who only associates Colombia with danger. Although I am aware there are risks in Colombia, I have also heard that under President Alvaro Uribe the situation has improved markedly and that the dangers are often exaggerated in the media and in Holly wood. The same phenomenon occurs to some degree with Mexico.
Any specific advice in relation to personal security would be much appreciated.
2.   Do Colombians in general tend to view U.S. Americans and the United States positively or negatively? Is there a great amount of anti-Americanism in the country? The United States and Colombia have a complex relationship because of Plan Colombia and even the recent basing agreement, and I would imagine that some view us as an ally whereas other see us as simply meddling.
3.   Where would you recommend someone travel in Colombia if he wants to see “real” Colombia and not just the side of the country made for tourism?
Although Cartagena and the Caribbean coast would be interesting for the historical value of the former and the natural beauty of the entire region, I am afraid that the area might be overly touristy and give me the feeling that I am not experiencing the real country. In other words, I am not looking for the Colombian equivalent to Mexico’s Cancun or Acapulco. Perhaps Medellín or Bogotá would be a more mainstream location to visit in Colombia, although I am somewhat leery of the latter because of its immense size. Medellin seems to be a more moderate sized city. In Mexico, for example, I really enjoyed the time I stayed in Guadalajara but was glad that I only went to Mexico DF on daytime excursions from where I was studying in Cuernavaca. What suggestions would you have?

Thank you very much for your time and I look forward very much to your reply.  

Answer
Hi Seth,
There have been remarkable security improvements in Colombia over the last few years. Homicide rates have fallen to those similar to Milwaukee or Philadelphia. The government has dramatically increased its military presence all over the country, this presence has drastically undercut guerrilla and paramilitary activity, making land transportation reasonably safe again. Since Uribe took office in 2002, political kidnappings have decreased by over 70%.
Despite all the felt improvements in security, Colombia can still be unpredictable. The guerrilla, paramilitaries and smaller drug bands still exist, as well as the conflicts among them to control drug trafficking. The slow economy has also made its presence, and with it an increase in small street crimes.
As a foreign tourist, you are unlikely to face threats from major illegal groups, but it's still smart to avoid rural areas, city slums, and other "red zones". Traveling with street wise sense should keep you safe and away from facing any problems.
Colombians in their vast majority love anything to do with the U.S., for me not always a good thing, let's talk about colonialism, but that's a different conversation, sorry. So you shouldn't have any problems in finding folks eager to help you in any given situation.
The real Colombia can be seen everywhere, from large cities like Bogota to small towns everywhere. Colombia is a country of extremes. The insanely rich mall hoping, swiping their plastic to fetch the latest fashion trends and around the corner the poorest Colombians selling handmade dish rags to feed their 8 kids. Some would argue that both views are the real Colombia, some would not, again a completely separate conversation.
We are for sure a fascinating country to visit. Its beaches some of the best in the world, despite the tourists that plagued them. There are times in the year where you can have a gorgeous beach in Parque Tayrona all to yourself.
I am more of a city person, so I am all about Bogota. Still, you can manage to stay away from the noise and crowds. Medellin is fine, a little to egocentric for my taste, but a cool hangout anyway. Many, many Americans there. Some say is for its eternal spring, some say is because all the young, fine ladies there. One has to judge for himself.
Just my take on things. Let me know if this helps.
You can always reach me at info@colombianpossibilities.com
Marta