Expert: Larry Caldwell - 3/17/2000

Question
We are planning to fly to Colorado for 1 week in August.
I visited Estes Park (& shopped there)once on an
afternoon when a business trip ended early, but know
nothing about the area or the park.
We are not athletic, not hikers, etc.
Is there still enough for us to see in a rented
vehicle?
Should we rent a 4wd vehicle to go into the mountains?
Is the entrance to the park near Estes Park?
Should we stay in Estes Park or are there lodges
and places to stay within the park?
Any recommendations?
Where should I look for more info?
Thanks!


Answer
Estes Park is right at the entrances of Rocky Mountain National Park.  You have the option of staying downtown in a hotel or nearer to the Park in one of many excellent choices of "resorts".  I have done both and highly prefer the "resorts" for their proximity and better services.  The one I will recommend is the Wildwood.  This group of suites come fully furnished with a complete kitchen, dining area, outdoor deck with grill, TV, VCR, full bath, King bed, Queen pull-out couch, and maybe a jacuzzi.  Even if your room does not come with the jacuzzi, they have another one in a special room with a fabulous view, stereo, and lighting.  It is the perfect place to relax for a while after a long day.  Call them at (800) 400-7804 or check them out online via www.estes-park.com.  You can find just about anything else you want to on this very good web page.

Going into the mountains does not require a 4WD.  Just rent something that you are comfortable getting in and out of for the frequent stops you'll make to take in the scenery.  There is absolutely plenty to see from the car!

Here are some of my favorite spots:  Just inside the park is the best spot to view the bighorn sheep as the come down the mountainside to the watered valley to reach the salt licks.  I've also seen elk, deer, hawks, and coyotes right here.  Just up the road before the big curve heading up is the Alluvial Fan.  This geological wonder, caused by a broken dam back in the eighties, is another great wildlife spot, as well as a great picnic area.

From this point, you can choose to go up the park road, or take Old Trail Ridge Road.  This is the original road over the top.  It is unpaved, single lane, and no guardrails.  It is a fabulous drive all the way!

Taking the park road, there are many turnoffs along the way to view the mountains.  Rainbow curve, about halfway up, is a preferred location looking back down into the valled and the town.

At the top is a ranger station, restaurant, and gift shop.  At 14,000 feet, it can get cold sometimes up there.  Just be prepared.  Last year when I went there, the weather was sunny and 70 down below, and a blizzard up top!  Really neat.  The driving was just a little slower, but I didn't care because it made everything so beautiful.

If you continue on over the top, you'll reach Never Summer Ranch down in the valley.  See what ranch life was like in the late 19th/early 20th century in this well-preserved farm.  (Everything is well preserved here because there is little humidity.  Notice all those fallen trees on the mountainside to your left as you were coming down to Never Summer?  They've been there for a Loooooong time.)

Past Never Summer, you'll arrive at Grand Lake.  Take time for lunch or dinner at the Grand Lake Lodge.  Sit out on their porch on a big ol' rocking chair or glider and enjoy the breezy view of the lake.  If the weather is too cold, they may have the giant copper fireplace blazing just inside to warm you up a bit.

To get back to Estes, you'll have to go the way you came unless you want a really long drive around the mountains.  Take the same way back and look at everything from another point of view.  Different light/shadows, etc.  Stop again at your favorite panoramas.

Back in the town, plan on a good meal at the Bald Pate Inn just up the road a bit.  This place is famous not only for the play written about it, but also for its excellent soup, salad, bread, and dessert dinners.  Everything is homemade and out of this world good.  If you like, this is also a nice inn to lodge at.

After dinner, go up the road just a few miles to Eagle Plume's.  This is an old Indian trading post with the best collection of authentic American Indian lore you'll find.  (Back downtown is just a bunch of souvenirs.)

Since you've been downtown, you know there are plenty of shops, restaurants, and things to do.  For a really fun evening though, I recommend the Lazy B ranch dinner and show.  Good steak, potatoes, beans, and a hoe cake sit just right as you enjoy some good old cowboy humor, music, and company.

I guess by now you can tell why this is my favorite place to vacation.  Have a great time!

Larry