AboutThomas Expertise A lot of hobbyist are out there looking for answers, lapidary, jewelry making craft, etc. I can answer to many topics in those areas. I do not generally deal with costume jewelry but can give some advice regarding such. Note that I do not string pearls(or other bead work) or do twisted wire work jewelry. I can give info on gemstones and jewelry making tools and techniques.
Experience Experience: Over 25 years as a professional jeweler, working at the bench with the everyday problems of everyday people, plus good knnowledge on the do`s and dont`t, what to expect, what is unexpected, how to get beyond the simple into a rewarding hobby.
Clients: Owned and operated a "trade shop" servicing designers, retail jewelers, etc, and owned and operated a school for jewelers now gone by the wayside due to certain personal and economic conditions). I produced fine jewelry for one national opal company. Also lectured, demonstrated, and taught at the request of clubs, societies,etc.
Question Dear Thomas, I am a novice at this type of craft. I have recently returned home from a wonderful vaction on Cape Cod where I had (naturally)walked the beach :) Well, I noticed some beautiful shells that had either white, yellow, or orange shiny insides. I was told it was mother of pearl and so I collected a bag full of them in assorted sizes and colors.
My question to you is, what is the best way or proper way to cut these beautiful shells and is there a way to soften them to flaten them out or you just use what you can? These shells are curved (cupped). And when applying them to a surface what is the best way to adhere them?
Thank you so much for any help you may send my way.
Sincerely, Charlene
Answer Charlene, I am back.
Technically, mother-of-pearl is a certain type of shell created by an oyster or mussel, either of which are capable of producing pearls in the body of the creature. The shell is layers of a material called nacre, the same coating which makes up a pearl. You can see where the name mop is derived. Nacre has a natural iridescence and sometimes colorful effect in light.
Shells of other sorts have colorful layers but lack the play of light seen in mother of pearl, being colorful and perhaps shiny but lacking any depth of reflection and iridescence. Cameo faces of ladies are often carved from the shells with layers of color and you might see a brownish raised face carved with a darker or lighter colored background. All is from the same piece of shell and generally is not from mother of pearl but chosen for color layers thick enough and flat enough for a cameo to be carved.
Shell is cut using several methods but one way is with a jewelers saw frame and hard steel blade. The shell will wear out several blades but can be trimmed and cut. Another method is to grind the excess shell away with a stone grinding wheel. It is preferred to run the wheel with a water drip (if the grinder is electrically safe to do that!) to prevent large amounts of shell dust from filling the air. Some shell dust will bring on sensitivity reactions and the dust is not good to breath in any regard.
For hand work, sandpapers of the wet/dry sort available from hardware or automotive supply stores will do. Using a rubber cement or wrapping sandpaper on a flat stick provides a working tool for sanding. You will likely go from 150 grit down to perhaps 1000, depending on the nature of sanding needed. The actual mop or colorful surface to be displayed is best not sanded unless really necessary. If so, use very fine sanding papers. Polishing is done with a soft cloth buff and a polishing compound such as ZAM or Fabulustre rouges. Some automotive rubbing compounds may work to take slight dings from the shell and also to polish the surface. The polishing buff is the cloth sort seen with Dremel tool kits, the handheld rotary tool. These tools work best with variable speed for good control.
CEMENT
Two sorts of cements work well on shell. The first is a two part epoxy cement and the second is a more globby craft cement called E6000. Epoxy means nothing stays in place unless supported until the cement cures; however, it does bond well to most surfaces. I would use the E6000. This is thicker but holds very well. Use care not to apply too much. A search for E6000 will show many sources and a decent crafts store should have the cement.
The secret to getting a secure bond with cements is to clean contacting surfaces first. I will clean the surfaces and give a final wipe with alcohol to remove any remaining finger oils, etc. With surfaces clean, the bond will last a long time without concern.
Charlene, working shells will take some work and practice. Still, let your creative spirit move and you may be quite surprised and pleased with the results of work.
God Bless and Peace. Thomas. September 1, 2008 12:40pm
Charlene, this is not your complete answer. I will be back tomorrow with the rest. Tonight caught me totally swamped and I want to take enough time to give a proper answer. One thought to start: The shells are used as are, no flattening or similar processes can be used. You choose what you have and work with that shape.
