Expert: Thomas - 5/14/2003

Question
Hi Thomas! My sister asked me to join her craft show business as I do many different crafts from painting to flower arrangements. I wanted to do something different than what is usually seen at craftshows and decided on pressed flower jewelry. I know there is some out there, but not tons, which I thought would make it sell better. There is loads of info on pressing flowers, but not a lot about  assembling it into jewelry. I got the idea from a book. I used to work for a local  chain of jewelry stores as an appraiser and diamond grader (I am a certified gemologist - though I am currently a stay at home mom), so I do have a background in jewelry.  My problem is I cannot find settings suitable for this work. Basically I need pendant, earring and brooch settings that have a bezel and a closed back. I'm mostly interested in sterling and 14k. I have spent hours searching the internet, looked at probably a hundred sites and just got the latest "Lapidary Journal" magazine which had lots of sources in it. My question to you is - do you know of a manufacturer that has these types of settings (the bail must be attached, because I have no blow torch, solder, etc.)? I don't know if this  is something you can help me with, but I am literally just about out of places to try. I have used every version of the words "pendant setting" to search the internet and there just isn't much out there. Any manufacturers who deal with this that you know of would be very helpful or any other info you can provide would be great. At this point, I have to either abandon my idea, or use polymer clay to make the settings, which I really don't want to do because the jewelry will have a more casual look and I thought the real metal would be nice. I plan to use resin to coat  it and hold it in. Thank you so much for your time and response and even for making yourself available for this type of question. I appreciate it!  Kathy

Answer
Dear Kathy,

Thanks for the question…I think! : )

Jewelry is jewelry is jewelry but that means literally countless designs and approaches, from platinum to polymer clays.  So, this question is not exactly in my area of jewelry expertise but I will do what I can.  I really am not the type to “reject” a question outright and will make an effort with some hope of you finding at least something of value.

First suggestion and only one for suppliers besides those in The Lapidary Journal is Rio Grande.  Still, likely you will find stamped sterling “bezel cups” and mostly without bails.
There is not an online catalog but you can go to the site and request a catalog.

www.riogrande.com

THE PROBLEM.   Generally all you will find with a closed back will be in base metal and some in sterling.  Gold simply is not on the market in that form, at least none of my many suppliers have closed back bezels in gold.

SUGGESTIONS.  Try to go for what you can get and make some changes to you approach.  For instance, in silver you might be able to take a sterling stamping and lay it in the bezel, then the floral creation on top of that.  A solid back is achieved without soldering, etc.   You can do the same with gold but then the item gets pricy and sales could lag while you still have your cash invested, not counting your creative work time.

Coin Mounts.   You can likely make a double sided pendant with a coin mounting, the kind with the screw closure at the top.  This would require two of your creations, back to back.

Signature Items.  Now, this is just a thought but one with possibilities if you can pull it off. This suggestion might be considered a "walkaround" the original problem of lack of suitable mountings.  Try to make the item to fit the bezel with the open back.  On the back of your creation use another back, flattish to lay in the bezel bottom.  Or, if the back of your creations are colored or opaque, go with the original back.  On that back, you might have your “artists signature”.  You might even use a small petal or some symbol for “you” also covered in the rosin.  This could be you “signature”, visible with pride from the back of the open bezel.   This is only a suggestion but with work to make it happen, you might just come up with something more unique, always marked with “you” for the wearer to see and show.  “Signature” items may be displayed in a separate zone from the closed back items.  Can this work?  You tell me.

I am not sure of other suggestions. If some come to mind, I will use the follow-up to send on.  If you have any questions or more specifics, please get back with me and we will try to come up with a reasonable and workable solution.

CRAFT SHOWS.  My suggestion? You didn't ask for this one but it is thrown in for free! Along with the rest of this answer. : )    Make several in the polymer clay and a few in silver and very few in gold.  Do this at least to start out.  Have a knowledge of the prices of gold items and let people know gold is available on special order.  Your “business/artist” card can say something about gold being available.   I suspect most initial sales will be in the polymer clay and then in sterling, regardless of how much we do like the real thing and like the precious metals.  Price points are important in craft shows as is quality and the initial eye appeal.

Kathy, I really wish you had asked how to set a princess cut or something simple for me like that!   Without graphics ability on this site some answers are difficult and it finally resorts to email to get that going( a roundabout process since all mail addresses are kept from me and from you by the protective machine in the middle of our connection here).

If any of these ideas find a way of working in your talented hands, please do let me know. Also, feel no need at all to rate me or the answer. You can if you want but please know I am stepping out of my field of technical know-how and more into imagination, trying to put myself in your situation with the limited resources for closed back bezel mountings in precious metals.  I do wish you success in this work.

God Bless.         Thomas.                        5/14/03 7:41 PM