About Richard L Richard Expertise I have been deeply intrigued with Chrysler/Dodge mechanics and extremely well at diagnosing them. I myself have had two 94 3.0L Chrysler Engines, 1 w/ the A604 Ultra-Drive and the A-543 Getrag Manual (5) speed. I have done most of my work myself and have helped many friends and strangers with mechanical issues. I am constantly strengthening my knowledge inside the Mopar Arena reading daily and finding things to modify/upgrade/repair on my own vehicle. I can answer questions pertaining to fuel issues (on fuel injected), most main Chrysler sensors and their purposes (MAP, EGR, TPS, AIS, Coolant, Knock, Relays, etc.) I can assist in emissions issues (i.e. gas mileage, ignition problems) and I know most of the breakdown and specs on these engines. I can discuss Cam profiles, Lash adjusters, Valve Springs Rocker Arms, Timing Belts, etc. I, being a close friend with a 10 year Chrysler Mechanic have discussed Chrysler Engine manufacturing, vigorous testing, durability, Etc. I can advise on oil related issues such as Loss of oil, burning/leaking oil, high/low oil pressure, weight and viscosity of the oil and the differences and qualities in various brands of oil. I know how an Automatic and a Standard Transmission/Transaxle work along with the intermediate velocity shafts and constant velocity joints, bearings, boots. I can assist in brake issues such as brake pull, loss of brake pressure, and feeling of the brake pedal, how to bleed brakes, and how ABS works as well as the master cylinder. I feel I could be a bigger help to other Mopar owners who would much rather not feel ripped off by a mis-diagnostic.
Experience I have been working on my engine in various dept.'s for over two years now vigorously and attentively, using my knowledge, physics, and common sense to determine a problem, or a resourceful way of fixing something. I have helped fix/diagnos many vehicles (friends and strangers) as well as read manuals and engine breakdowns of various engines.
Organizations I am currently enrolled at Florida Gulf Coast University and do not belong to any organization. My plans are to get my AA here with basic/complex Math education as well as physics to better understand the dynamics of materials and compounds I will be using when I initiate and complete my automotive education at UTI (Universal Technical Inst.) located in Orlando FL. with dreams of working for Porsche, NASCAR, or Daimler/Mercedes.
Education/Credentials High School, Physics I, II, and Honors Trig and Geometry, College Algebra, etc.
Question Sorry I didn't put all that information in the first question
I am in Alaska and the seasons are a changing, so I am running 5-30 for oil. I understand that it is thin oil but because of the cold temps here in the interior (-10 to -50) it is recommended to run that. There is 118,000 on the engine. I have been keeping a close eye on the oil level and it is just under the Full mark. I have not seen, smelled or noticed any oil smoke coming out the exhaust so I don't believe it is burning much if any. I have been limited in the amount I have driven it but will be increasing the milage by mid week. Do you still think I should use the oil stabalizer? Thanks for the advise.
Tom
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Followup To
Question -
I recently purchased an 87 Dodge Dakota, on my way home I noticed as I slowed down my oil pressure lowered. At idle the gauge showed no pressure and the low oil light came on. This only occurs after the car is fully warmed up. I have changed the oil/filter and added engine cleaner in case there was gunk built up on the screen, but this hasn't had an affect. I have also increase the idle speed slightly thinking that may be the problem, but no effect. I have also let the auto idle for approximately 15 minutes to see what would happen and the engine did fine no clunks, ticks, bangs…. Thanks for your assistance.
Answer -
Hmmm...What weight oil are you using? What kind of climate temperature are you located in? How many miles are on it? And have you checked the oil level? Basically, the oil pressure is an effective way of telling how well your engine is running. If it only stays high under load, you may need to thicken it up. What works wonders is "Lucas Oil Stabilizer" that will definately assist in the oil pressure in your motor by providing a better seal between the piston ring and the cylinder walls. If your oil is too thin you will lose protection in the engine because the film strength and thickness isn't substantial enough to prevent blowby and metal to metal contact. If it's as bad as it sounds you're probably smoking oil out the exhaust because the thin oil is getting forced by the rings under vacuum (2nd cycle) and blown out in the exhaust cycle (4th cycle).
I work at a parts store and I know from testimonials and personal experience that Lucas is probably the best crankcase additive to assist in film strength, lower viscocity, and thickness of the oil. Not to mention awesome for protecting vital engine compotents to ensure your engine runs stronger and more efficiently for a substantially longer engine life. I'm not advertising, just tryin to help. If it is the correct weight, fluid capacity, etc, it is possible oil seeped into the electrical components of the pressure sensor and it is transmitting inadequate readings to your dash gauge. Let me know.
Rich
Answer Ok, well that is pretty damn cold. lol. I'm thinking it is possible that your oil pressure switch is going bad. Sometimes they don't just quit, but start to go bad due to oil seeping into the electrical elements of the sensor. It may very well be your oil pump or screen. Unfortunately you won't know until you pull it apart. The screen could be checked my removing the oil pan. It's right there. The Lucas shouldn't hurt it if you only use a half quart. And yea again the oil pump could be getting weak. Let me know what you're gonna do.
