About Richard L Richard Expertise I have been deeply intrigued with Chrysler/Dodge mechanics and extremely well at diagnosing them. I myself have had two 94 3.0L Chrysler Engines, 1 w/ the A604 Ultra-Drive and the A-543 Getrag Manual (5) speed. I have done most of my work myself and have helped many friends and strangers with mechanical issues. I am constantly strengthening my knowledge inside the Mopar Arena reading daily and finding things to modify/upgrade/repair on my own vehicle. I can answer questions pertaining to fuel issues (on fuel injected), most main Chrysler sensors and their purposes (MAP, EGR, TPS, AIS, Coolant, Knock, Relays, etc.) I can assist in emissions issues (i.e. gas mileage, ignition problems) and I know most of the breakdown and specs on these engines. I can discuss Cam profiles, Lash adjusters, Valve Springs Rocker Arms, Timing Belts, etc. I, being a close friend with a 10 year Chrysler Mechanic have discussed Chrysler Engine manufacturing, vigorous testing, durability, Etc. I can advise on oil related issues such as Loss of oil, burning/leaking oil, high/low oil pressure, weight and viscosity of the oil and the differences and qualities in various brands of oil. I know how an Automatic and a Standard Transmission/Transaxle work along with the intermediate velocity shafts and constant velocity joints, bearings, boots. I can assist in brake issues such as brake pull, loss of brake pressure, and feeling of the brake pedal, how to bleed brakes, and how ABS works as well as the master cylinder. I feel I could be a bigger help to other Mopar owners who would much rather not feel ripped off by a mis-diagnostic.
Experience I have been working on my engine in various dept.'s for over two years now vigorously and attentively, using my knowledge, physics, and common sense to determine a problem, or a resourceful way of fixing something. I have helped fix/diagnos many vehicles (friends and strangers) as well as read manuals and engine breakdowns of various engines.
Organizations I am currently enrolled at Florida Gulf Coast University and do not belong to any organization. My plans are to get my AA here with basic/complex Math education as well as physics to better understand the dynamics of materials and compounds I will be using when I initiate and complete my automotive education at UTI (Universal Technical Inst.) located in Orlando FL. with dreams of working for Porsche, NASCAR, or Daimler/Mercedes.
Education/Credentials High School, Physics I, II, and Honors Trig and Geometry, College Algebra, etc.
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I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 ( 318 / 5.2 ) yesterday i drove it about 15 miles and shut it off. I restarted it it and drove back 15 miles. during these 30 miles the truck ran like a dream
100%. The next time I started the truck about 10 minutes later it started just fine ran about 10 seconds and now it won't start. Ican hear the fuel pump when i turn the key on. it seems to want to run if i hold the pedal all the way to floor when I try and start it.I't puff and bang a couple times and then nothing. PLEASE HELP.
Answer -
Have the fuel pressure checked. By hooking up an in like gauge or removing the "sending" fuel like and turning the key to on so you hear the pump. If you see fuel drain for a min, you're probably ok. It does sound fuel related but to tell you need to try starting fluid to see if it starts the engine than dies. If it does, go through and check/change the filter, pressure regulator, and if that doesn't work prob. fuel pump. Have the codes checked at Advanced Auto. They do it for free.
Let me know.
Rich
I took it in and they said I needed a temp sensor.The temp sensor is out and telling the engine that it's colder then it really is and the engine tries to compensate for it flooding the engine. Anyway I had it done $150.00 for sensor , labor and diagnostics. It seems to work just fine but can't find any new parts or sensors. wheres the sensor located and does that sound logical to you.
Answer So the coolant sensor wasn't in at all? And yes, the coolant sensor assists the ECM (Engine Computer Management) along with the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor and the Oxygen sensor (02 sensor) Located on the exhaust to calibrate the air/fuel ratio. If it reads the engine is cold, it runs Richer (more fuel) until heated where the oxygen sensor assists when heated and creates a better calculation for the ECM to re-calibrate the Air/Fuel ratio which occurs roughly 12 times per second. So you can imagine how accurate and efficient fuel injection is when all the sensors are performing correctly. It also explains why you were getting a "sort of start" when you held your pedal to the floor. Being that you had more air at initial start-up than if you had just turned the key, the fuel was better matched for the air and a strong combustion could occur. Thinking now...when you drove it the 15 miles before it shut off, did it sputter? And if the coolant sensor was out, the ECM would have riched out the system, but I don't think it would be enough to make it just die. Unless another sensor isn't performing properly. Do this. I think '96 was the last year this worked on. Do you have a Haynes Manual? I hope so. Turn the key with the engine off in sequence like this: "On-Off-On-Off-On" and keep it on the "on" position. The "Check Engine" light that is on should go off, and then begin to flash codes. The haynes manual tells you how to read these flashes if you've never done it, and as long as you haven't disconnected the battery since this problem, the codes will still be stored in the computer. Please let me know, I'll check again at 6am. Sorry, It's been a long day.
