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Dodge/1997 Dodge Ram 1500 stalling


krieg wrote at 2006-07-03 03:56:13
It is the TPS on the intake manifolde.

Dnsouthplayr wrote at 2006-08-29 21:29:24
I had this happen to my 96 Ram 1500 4x4 5.9L. I cleaned the IAC (Idle air control) solenoid and it stoped.

Big rammer wrote at 2007-05-11 16:41:39
i had the same problem with my truck and found out that the temperature was too cool for the computer and it would shut it down only after letting off the gas and not everytime just randomly it would die completly if your engines runs around 200 then this is your problem because my truck ran about 160 but has no problem now that i changed the thermostat and it stays at 200

Mark wrote at 2008-07-19 13:33:01
i had a problem like this in my 97 ram also.  when i took it to the shop if memory serves me right i beleive it was the throttle control sensor or something along that line.

Tom wrote at 2008-11-16 20:54:23
I recently had the same problem, every time I took my foot off the gas the RPMs would drop to 0 and then bounce back.  If I was driving fast the car would keep running but at slow speeds it would stall, this normally only happened after the car had warmed slightly (the electronic choke was off).  My first inclination was to check all vacuum lines for a leak that might be disturbing the air/gas ratio and leaning the mixture out too much.  I conducted a visual inspection of all vacuum hoses and found one to be dry rotted (EGR) and another broken (cruise control), no wonder it no longer worked. I performed some simple routine maintenance, replace air filter, pcv and spray clean the throttle body, all to no avail.  I repaired both the aforementioned vacuum hoses and still the problem persisted (cruise control works though).  Next I began to trouble shoot with parts and the one most mentioned in blogs like this was the IAC (idle air control valve).  I removed the old and other then being dirty there was nothing visibly wrong with it.  I bought a new one anyway ($49) and installed it.  To my chagrin the problem still persisted.  Day two;  now totally frustrated I decided to take it to the parts store and ask them to read if there were any codes, there weren't.  While I was there I bought a $25 vacuum gauge.  Once again I pulled the beast into the garage and surrendered to the idea that another day would be wasted.  After having removed the air filter and hooked up under hood  lighting I began testing manifold vacuum pressure. What I found was a steady 19Hg, even when I removed hoses from the manifold while testing the engine would compensate and the gauge would return to 19Hg, it wasn't until I plugged one of the disconnected holes at the manifold with my thumb, that the car stalled.  This made me think that the problem wasn't too much air but not enough and the car was being choked off when the gas was released.  I decided to remove the new IAC and reinstall (start over).  My OTC repair manual suggested testing the IAC several different ways, voltage, key on engine off movement and increased idle when AC turned on.  The new IAC passed the voltage test but failed the movement and increased idle test.  It was getting to the point where I was going to start doing things that would hurt, like removing the IAC and starting the car, what a racket that made.  I reviewed the instructions that came with the IAC and one paragraph stood out, the length of the plunger+shaft should not be more then 1 1/8" long, the one I held was extended 1 1/4".  I screwed the plunger down, all the way down so that it was extended only 1".  After I reinstalled it I performed voltage tests on the throttle position sensor and found it was OK.  Time for a test drive, without replacing the air filter I took it out.  VOILE, no more stalling  The only thing I can figure is that either the IAC port hole was clogged and I unclogged it when I rant it uninstalled or the IAC plunger was too long.  Both conditions must have been choking the engine off and causing it to stall when the throttle was closed suddenly.  

andrew wrote at 2009-06-10 13:53:29
I HAD the same problem with my 2005 1500 ram all i did is change my wheel bearings w/a antilock sensor on it it had somthing to do with the sensor     it was dumb luck for me  after the sensor was changed it is and still runing like brand new  try changing the antilocking sensor on the bearing on the driver side

Lopram wrote at 2009-12-10 15:29:51
Good information, and good analysis from Tom. On My 97 Ram 1500 with 160K miles, I been having the same problem for a long time, only that it come and goes as if the engine had a mind of his own. I had a spark plug melted (#8) some years ago, since then if had a rough IDLE, I think I have a burned valve, since I change plugs , hires, caps, and other sensors. This is why I haven't pay much attention. But now it is getting worst. I will check the IAC or buy a new one. I will try to keep my updates posted.

Timmy wrote at 2010-11-20 06:58:03
I have a dodge ram 1500, 2002 and i was having problems with rough idle replace the IAC and this helped for awhile then problem started again had to remove and reinstall, then program it to the trucks computer. this was a processes in its self.

Mason wrote at 2012-03-28 17:32:22
I just wanted to thank everyone for all ideas and/or opinions on the stalling issue.Most of you guys got it right, it was the IAC valve on my Dodge. She purrrrrrs like a kitten now and has a little more pep in her step.

Al from New England wrote at 2014-01-07 19:31:29
I had same trouble stalling one day next day fine checked for vac leaks threw some dry gas and fuel cleaner finally cleaned iac idles a lot smoother and no stalling thanks


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I own a Dodge Ram and have had many fix-it related problems,Also have 2 mechanics that I am close friends with,that have instructed me on all repairs.



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