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Dodge/Ram 1500 won't start


Rog wrote at 2006-10-09 13:28:27
I had the same problem on my 1996 dodge ram 1500.

The truck would start but, it will shut off after I released the gas pedal.

Some times the truck will die on a stop sign.

I Took the truck to Autozone and they run a computer diagnose for free, the

computer pointed to a bad Coolant engine sensor, the part is only $8. The sensor is located close to the water pump and the engine thermostat.

The truck run fine after replacing the port.  

david nawman wrote at 2007-12-29 03:26:39
i have a 1999 dodge ram 5.2L it is doing the samethaning I hold the pedl to the floor and it wants to start but it will not I have check fuel pump it is ok all so plug wires cap rotro mag pickup ciol tamp saser still will not start I have replaced tham all

D Bova wrote at 2009-08-12 12:06:48
Rich is trying to redeem himself in this case. He isnt listening to what you had to say. Ithad a hard tim starting when it was warm, not cold. should have been the first thing that rich should have seen if he knows what he was talking about. If he had a code for the sensor, It would put itself into "limp mode" where it uses what sensors it has working to run itself and not leave you stranded. Since it still does run when cold or atleast gives you something when the guage is not bottomed out, that means there is a better chance of no codes then some. plug a used sensor in, dont even have to put it into the coolant. just let it float and it should fire up when it wouldnt before. if it does the same problem than you are looking in the wrong direction.

p.robertson wrote at 2012-12-22 22:16:01
I fixed this problem today with my 2007 Dodge Ram 1500. Went out after work yesterday on a wet and cold day. Get in truck, dash, radio fine, but went to crank and nothing, no click, no nothing. Tried to jump it off and nothing. Today I went back and as I approached the truck I used remote unlock key to unlock and noticed the locks did not make any noise and the lights did not flash. I unlocked the truck manually with the key and the horn went off. Not good. I had to disconnect the positive battery cable to shut up the horn. Then I thouht if the safety system was activated and remote unlock does not work it will keep the truck from starting as a safety measure. The only way to disable this safety feature is by discnnected the negative battery terminal for about 30 seconds to relax the relay. I then re-connected the battery and the horn was silent. I then tried to crank and nothing. This told me the issue was a low battery from the start. So I pulled up spare car and reconnected jumper cables, the truck immediately started. Drove to store and replaced the battery, no more trouble, works fine. Yes it could be fuel pump or ground or other difficult issue which will cost you an arm and leg, but look if you walk up and the key does not work to unlock the truck just disconnect the battery both terminals, then reconnect after about 1 minute and jump the truck, if it starts, well thank Big Daddy Aircraft & Nuclear technician and inspector for making you happy................


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Richard L Richard


I have been deeply intrigued with Chrysler/Dodge mechanics and extremely well at diagnosing them. I myself have had two 94 3.0L Chrysler Engines, 1 w/ the A604 Ultra-Drive and the A-543 Getrag Manual (5) speed. I have done most of my work myself and have helped many friends and strangers with mechanical issues. I am constantly strengthening my knowledge inside the Mopar Arena reading daily and finding things to modify/upgrade/repair on my own vehicle. I can answer questions pertaining to fuel issues (on fuel injected), most main Chrysler sensors and their purposes (MAP, EGR, TPS, AIS, Coolant, Knock, Relays, etc.) I can assist in emissions issues (i.e. gas mileage, ignition problems) and I know most of the breakdown and specs on these engines. I can discuss Cam profiles, Lash adjusters, Valve Springs Rocker Arms, Timing Belts, etc. I, being a close friend with a 10 year Chrysler Mechanic have discussed Chrysler Engine manufacturing, vigorous testing, durability, Etc. I can advise on oil related issues such as Loss of oil, burning/leaking oil, high/low oil pressure, weight and viscosity of the oil and the differences and qualities in various brands of oil. I know how an Automatic and a Standard Transmission/Transaxle work along with the intermediate velocity shafts and constant velocity joints, bearings, boots. I can assist in brake issues such as brake pull, loss of brake pressure, and feeling of the brake pedal, how to bleed brakes, and how ABS works as well as the master cylinder. I feel I could be a bigger help to other Mopar owners who would much rather not feel ripped off by a mis-diagnostic.


I have been working on my engine in various dept.'s for over two years now vigorously and attentively, using my knowledge, physics, and common sense to determine a problem, or a resourceful way of fixing something. I have helped fix/diagnos many vehicles (friends and strangers) as well as read manuals and engine breakdowns of various engines.

I am currently enrolled at Florida Gulf Coast University and do not belong to any organization. My plans are to get my AA here with basic/complex Math education as well as physics to better understand the dynamics of materials and compounds I will be using when I initiate and complete my automotive education at UTI (Universal Technical Inst.) located in Orlando FL. with dreams of working for Porsche, NASCAR, or Daimler/Mercedes.

High School, Physics I, II, and Honors Trig and Geometry, College Algebra, etc.

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