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QUESTION: I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan. For the past two months power door locks, windows, wipers and courtesy lights, only work when van is running or the key is in the on position. When the key is in the accessory position no power to the door locks,windows,wipers or courtesy lights. Radio, clock and remote door locks do not work at any position of the key. The 4 way hazards work for all positions of the key and when the key is not in the ignition. When I start the vehicle the gauges go hard right and after 6 secs settle to normal levels. When I turn off the van the heater blower continues to run for ten seconds and the digital odometer and seat belts not fastened lights remain lit for ten seconds. During a recent trip I hit a bump and the light for the radio clock came on for 10 secs and went out. Also the coutesy lights have come on two times when I open the door however they do not last very long. Have changed the battery, ignition switch, accessory relay and all fuses. My priority is to get the remote locks working. All the lock actuators function but only when the engine is running or the key is in the on position.

ANSWER: Hi Charles,
I would begin by verifying whether you have 12v on both ends of fuses 14, 19, and 24 at all positions of the ignition switch. Then if so, go to the back side of the integrated power module and check pin 1 of the yellow plug (violet/red) and pin 15 of the black 20-pin plug (grey/red), and pin 6 of the 10-pin plug (brown/red) to verify that the 12v output of those fuses are getting out of the ipm and on to the circuits that they supply.
Let me know if those are 'solid' outputs.
Also, go to the bottom rear corner of the right front door opening and look under the rug at that point (called the B-pillar) for a black/tan wire that is the ground for the body computer and make sure that it is firmly attached to the body metal of the floor/pillar at that point.
One additional approach would be to get a fault code readout of the body control module. I am not certain if the ignition key can do that but try turning the key: "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer window of the cluster to see if the mileage reading changes to show a 4-digit number preceded by a P or a B.
Let me know. The way to be certain is to get a fault code readout with a plug-in code reader. You would want any B codes. Let me of any codes you find and we'll go from there. A nationwide auto parts store such as Autozone will often give a free code readout, or an independent shop will do it for around $40. Be sure they access the body computer module's memory.  
Please 'rate/nominate' my answer/me (see the PS below).

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Good morning Roland,
Below is a list of voltages for fuses 14, 19 and 24 for all positions of the ignition switch. I did not proceed to determine the output of the pins given the voltage across the fuses was not 12v. I cleaned and reattached the  BCM ground with no change. Using the on–off cycle of the ignition switch I did not receive any fault codes in the odometer window. It showed only donE. If the voltage at the pins is required I need direction concerning how to determine the output. I have access to a multimeter and test light. I did not get an OBD read out however if required can arrange to get a readout.
Fuse 14-IOD-accessory voltage 9.57v, off position 9.57,on position 9.22, running position 10.80. Fuse 19-BCM-acc voltage 11.69,off position 11.72, on position 10.36, running position 12.11. Fuse 24-hazard-acc voltage 11.46, off position 11.46, on position 11.04, running position 13.15.
Thanks Charles

Hi Charles,
If the multimeter is accurate as to voltage readings, then it appears that the voltages all across the system are several volts low. How old is the battery and do you have another vehicle to see what its voltage reading is across its battery for comparison.
If you find the '06 to indeed be about 2 volts lower in comparison, then either the battery is going bad or there is something that is drawing down its voltage. To check the latter, but the multimeter in series between the - post clamp and the - post proper of the battery in order to measure the ignition off-draw with everything shut off. After about 20 minutes of waiting it should be around 35 mA.
So let me know your findings and we'll go from there.
Please 'rate/nominate' my answer/me.

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Roland Finston


Get a Free Fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

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I have do-it-yourself experience (50+ years) and a library of 100 1982-2012 Chrysler factory shop manuals and 20 multi-manual Chrysler Corp. CD's.

I was voted "Top expert" from 2010-2015 here at AllExperts, and have answered 20,000+ questions.


Five decades as a 'do-it-yourselfer' on domestic and imported cars

Yahoo Autos Group called The Chrysler Lebaron Club (co-moderator)

Degrees in Physics/bruised knuckles.

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