Dodge Repair/engine dies when accelerated/hard starting
QUESTION: My 1994 dodge ram b250 died at the beach. Had to keep lights off to be able to get it back from the beach i replaced the fuel pump, alternator, map sensor, idle air control valve, throttle positioning sensor, crank sensor, rear end, tranny, & has a recant performance chip. When i step on the gas peddle, it sucks enough air threw the intake to choke it out and kill it. WHAT IS WRONG? And do i need to do a factory reset with the scanner..????
ANSWER: Hi Frank,
That is an impressive list of replacement parts. Were any of the engine parts chosen for replacement based upon a fault code readout? If so, what were the codes, and are there still any codes showing up?
If you haven't done a code readout either with a scanner or by the self-diagnostic approach using the ignition key then that would be the next thing to do as that will tell us possibly why you are stalling out. To do it by the ignition key, turn it "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light, which remains 'on, to see it begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat the process to be sure of an accurate set of flash counts. Then tell me the counts in the order of appearance.
Also, let me know which engine, (L) and # of cylinders< you have in the vehicle.
From what you describe, stalling out when you step on the gas, it sounds to me like you may have an egr valve that is not closing tightly when you accelerate and also this could make it
difficult to start because the mixture is too lean. But let us check the codes, first, and then I can tell you about the egr, once I know which engine you have in the truck.
[an error occurred while processing this directive]---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: The van is a 94 dodge ram b250, it has a 5.2L 318 multi port injected v8 automatic. (A magnum motor). And the error code is 12 - 55
in the absence of codes, my first suggestion is indeed the egr valve. I don't happen to have any manuals for trucks of the '90's so probably don't have a picture of where the valve is positioned. But in any case check both exhaust manifolds to find which one has a small diameter pipe which leads to the egr valve which is mounted on the intake manifold. That valve is likely to have three parts: the valve body mounted in the pipe, a round top piece with a vacuum hose attached, and between the body and top is a flange which partially conceals the valve stem. It has a circumferential slot into which you can insert the tip of a screwdriver and thus move the stem back and forth against spring action in one direction that tries to close the valve. Over the years of usage the valve and stem get cruddy from exhaust gas and so fail to close to a complete stop which is necessary to get a good idle and to avoid stalling out when slowing to a stop, or from not starting at all. The easiest thing to try is to spray some WD-40 on the stem where it enters the valve body and then move the stem back and forth to free up the action. Note whether the spring action indeed closes it to a dead stop. Then try to start the engine and see if that solves the problem.
If not, then you would want to use a scanner/diagnostic readout box to check for the possibility that one of the sensors/control motors/etc. might be showing a voltage or measurement that is far off normal but may not be so bad as to 'set' a code. I had that happen with a MAP sensor, but I see you already did replace that.
But I have seen the egr get stuck ajar so often, and without setting a code, that I urge you to look into that first. It could be that the valve is too crudded up and you may have to take it off and clean the internal passageways.
Let me know what you find.
And thanks for the rating and nomination. You are entitled to do both again (as many as five times in a month!) if you would be so kind as to do so.