Dodge Repair/'94 2.5Lflex-fuel: engine stalling
I had my son "unplug" the flex fuel sensor on the 94 Dodge Spirit I have with the flex Fuel. If you remember, we have tried multiple things and I asked you how to bypass the sensor. You suggested to try unplugging it, of course the check engine light will not and does go out, but that is okay. The car runs fine at 30 mph and up. It does not however, go into passing gear without dying. It seems not to get enough fuel. Also, after car warms up and it is turned off for a little while, as in parked at a store, it will hardly back up, stalls. Also at lights it stumbles badly until I get it up to 30 and above. Hard to go out in traffic, the stopping and going is very difficult. It "feels" like it is not getting enough fuel to idle, or go slow. What do you think?, Should we plug the sensor back in, or is there something else we can do. This has us stumped. We cannot find any parts around here such as flex fuel sensors, the computer, etc for this old car. I wish you lived around here I would bring it to you!!
ANSWER: Hi Rebecca,
I remember that you had a 27 fault code and that I suggested some things to try to repair that. Was anything done along those lines of approach?
If the code is still present then that would be the next thing to do. So check for fault codes using the ignition key, after first disconnecting the battery for a minute to erase the old code and then drive it until it acts up. Then do a fault code readout using the ignition key. Let me know if anything other than 12,27,64, and 55 are present. If the 27 is there, then follow my instruction for dealing with it.
Please rate/nominate me if this is helpful.
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QUESTION: Have done what you suggested. but will try again and get back to you
ANSWER: Hi Rebessa,
Just in case you don't have it here is what I suggested for the 27 code:
"The 27 code is saying that there is a problem with the fuel injection electrical control circuit which could either be with the wiring harness or with one of the injectors not responding as it should to the signal that controls it. Each injector has 2 wires: a dark green/black which should show 12v when the engine is running, and then a separate colored wire for each of the injectors. You could inspect the wiring harness to the injectors for any signs of melting of the insulation. And if that shows nothing then I would suggest that when the engine malfunctions when hot that you remove the 4 spark plugs and check to see if any of them are "wet" with unburned fuel which would then suggest that the injector for that cylinder is out of control and needs to be replaced. It is possible that a fault code reader that is sophisticated could tell you which of the injectors is the faulty one."
I look forward to your response.
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My son has isolated a fuel injector which is not working. We called local parts company and we can only find a replacement from the state of Washington. Very expensive for the FFV fuel injector and they could not guarantee it will work. So we have no recourse but to continue with the car the way it is-I can only drive in our small town, because if I try to go shopping or anything else I can get there but not get back, it misses so badly and is undependable. So, we have come to the conclusion that the one fuel injector is not working by following your suggestion. So, I guess that is all we can do. Thanks for your help. Sorry to see such a great car go to pot. Rebecca
It is good that your son identified an injector not working properly. I wonder how much the store in Washington state wants to charge you for it; is it new? A fuel injector for a non-flex fuel engine, which only has one injector in the throttle body (which is what I have) costs $150 and I replaced it once. You might want to reconsider the decision not to replace it. Let me know if he needs instruction on it if you go ahead with the replacement.
Thanks for the update.