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Dodge Repair/'01 Ram 1500 5.9L no start

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good morning Roland I hope you had a good afternoon last night I have charge the battery switched the relays and still the same thing I pulled a plug wire off and stuck a spare plug in it it seems I'm not getting fire as wellI checked thefuse inside and it was good also went ahead and changed it to be safe

Answer
'01 ram1500 5.9 ltr: no start

Question:
QUESTION: last week I shut my truck off at lunch came back out from store to start the truck and the fuse box under the hood just clicked starter turned over strong but would not start I do not hear the fuel pump kicking on Island plug the battery notif you realize around hope the battery backup and it started it did not do this again for about 4 days then it did the same thing so I done the same thing and after letting it sit for a couple hours it started again this happened once more and then something new happened it died going down the road seems to take over night tostart againthe fuel pump is not a year and a half oldthe last time it started and I drove it I noticed the check gauges light came on in the voltmeter was reading 0 after going a few miles it just started working again and the light went off tf4hen another few miles it shut off going down the road it has not started since I put another fuse box out of a 2000 model 5.2 out of a junkyard and it still did the same thing is that because the computers not compatible or because my problem I'll be sleep somewhere else if you can help me please thank you

ANSWER: Hi Chris,
I would begin by trying to get a fault code readout from the engine controller. Turn the ignition switch: "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer window of the speedo to see if the mileage is replaced by a 4-digit number preceded by a P. Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.
Roland

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QUESTION: okay I had done what you said and the read the odometer read out came back no bus now what

ANSWER: "no bus" means that the digital communication from the engine and body computers is not getting to the instrument cluster. Hopefully that would not stop the engine from running; it does explain why 0 volts showed while you were running in the recent past. Do you or don't you hear the fuel pump run for a second or so when you turn the key to the "run" position? That had to be heard or means you don't have a fuel supply.
Roland

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QUESTION: I do not hear the fuel pump kicking on and the fuel pump relay and the ASD relay seem to be the areas the fuse box is clickingit will not start when it is clickingthe start er turns just fine though

Answer:
I would wonder if the fuel pump relay is faulty, and/or the ASD relay. Relays normally only click repeatedly when the voltage that is available to close the relay switch is below normal, such as when you have a partially discharged battery. However you say that the starter motor turns over the engine well so that should mean the battery voltage is not too bad. However it could be that battery is weak so the voltage is dropping too much while you are cranking it over. If you have a battery charger and can plug it in nearby then I would try charging up the battery.
Or see if you can get a "jump" to your battery from another vehicle.
The other possibility is that the clicking relay(s) is faulty. Put your fingers on the various relays while a helper tries the starter to identify which exact relays are clicking. Then try switching out those relays that click with other relays in the power box that have the same size/part number to see if that stops the clicking and restores the fuel pump/ASD action (assuming those are the relays that are clicking. Tell me which relays exactly are clicking if you can't get that to stop. If one is the fuel pump relay then check fuse #9 in the fuse box in the cabin as that fuse might have a crack in its internal wire which is opening/closing.
In any case, we have to either get the battery recharged or the clicking relays substituted out so that you have a necessary relay situation that assures you have ASD and fuel.
Please rate my answer and consider giving a 'yes' where you see the question about a nomination of me for 'volunteer of the month'.
Thanks,
Roland

Question:
good morning Roland I hope you had a good afternoon last night I have charge the battery switched the relays and still the same thing I pulled a plug wire off and stuck a spare plug in it it seems I'm not getting fire as wellI checked thefuse inside and it was good also went ahead and changed it to be safe.


Answer:

If the ASD and the fuel pump relays are still clicking while you try to start it, then that has to be solved. The voltage supply that operates those relays' internal switches is apparently compromised, being less than 12 volts, or you could have a faulty ignition switch.
The first thing to do is measure the voltage on pin 86 of the fuel pump and the ASD relays while you are cranking over the engine. Remove the 2 relays and put a voltmeter on the rear-most pin of the three pins that are side by side, which is #86, measure between the pin and the battery - post (or any metal chassis surface. Let me know what your measure. Then measure the voltage on pin #85 (the front-most pin of 3) at both of the relay sockets while cranking and tell me the results.
Finally, do temporary jumps from pin 30 to pin 87 using a wire, doing those at the same time at both the ASD and the fuel pump relay sockets, and then try to start the engine. 30 and 87 are the pins that are across from one another and separated by the biggest space in the relay socket. Let me know if the engine will then start. Remove the jumper wires after you complete the test so that the fuel pump will not keep running which is what the jump does and also the jump at the ASD powers the spark coils and the injectors so you don't want those on either after the test is completed.
Tell me what you find out and measured.
Roland

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Roland Finston

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Get a Free Fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

I answer questions seven days a week and respond to you in about 30 minutes. "Maxed Out" means I am answering another question or asleep overnight so try again later.

I have do-it-yourself experience (50+ years) and a library of 100 1982-2012 Chrysler factory shop manuals and 20 multi-manual Chrysler Corp. CD's.

I was voted "Top expert" from 2010-2015 here at AllExperts, and have answered 20,000+ questions.

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Five decades as a 'do-it-yourselfer' on domestic and imported cars

Organizations
Yahoo Autos Group called The Chrysler Lebaron Club (co-moderator)

Education/Credentials
Degrees in Physics/bruised knuckles.

Awards and Honors
"Top expert" of 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, and 2015 here at Allexperts. Quickest "average response time" at Allexperts (currently no. 1).

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