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Dodge Repair/'00 dodge 1500 5.9 no start

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QUESTION: Ok so it's still not starting this morning. It is not firing while cranking. It did throw a code p0443. I forgot to add earlier that when I unhook the negative battery cable and use my test light from the cable to the post it will light randomly like there's a short. I can't see a egr valve my manifolds have nothing branching off.

ANSWER: Hi Will,
On the battery post I would suggest that you check for a loose connection of the battery - post wires between - post clamp and their far ends where they attach to the body/engine/etc.
Also examine both the battery cable clamps for possible corrosion where they attach to their wires.
Is the 0443 code showing when you do a fault code test, or does anything show up?
The system is involved with the capturing gas vapors, storing them, and then feeding them into the intake manifold for recycling at a later time. There are three wires between the "pump" and the powertrain control module that can be checked for continuity with a volt-ohm meter.
The pump is located in the right front corner of the engine compartment adjacent to the inner fender wall. The vapor collection canisters are two in number, side by side and are mounted under the vehicle cab and are mounted to the outside of the right frame rail. You could check the vacuum lines attached to the canisters to see if one is damaged/disconnected.

Roland



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QUESTION: All of my grounds seem fine. I decided to test my crank sensor. I show 5v on the purple wire when the key is turned on. When I checked the black wire for ground I back probed the connector with the black probe and put the red prob on the positive post on the battery and I have a constant 12v with the key off and on. It's my understanding that I should only show 12v when the key is turned on not all of the time. What would cause this and could this be part of my problem?

ANSWER: The black/light blue trace wire on pin 2 of the sensor is connected to pin 4 of the powertrain control module which is a ground point for the sensor so it is always connected ultimately to the - post of the battery (ground). Thus whether the key is "on" or "off" the reading on you meter, because you have the red wire on the + post of the battery, is going to read 12v. So that is not a problem.
Why don't you instead put your meter probes on the gray/black (signal) wire and the black/light blue (ground) wires (back-probing them via pins inserted through the insulation of the wires) while the sensor is plugged in. Then with the ignition in the 'on' position rotate the crankshaft by hand using a wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt and notice if the voltage changes from 5v to near 0 volts several times per rotation of the crankshaft. If so, then the sensor is operating as it should.

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QUESTION: Ok I tested the crank sensor and it checks out good. I found that putting pressure against the middle and right plug of the computer makes everything click and hum off and on like it getting bad contact. I took out the plugs and cleaned them with electrical parts cleaner and they seem to fit snugg and have very little play but it still does the same. It seems now that I've been messing with this I get the no bus message in the odometer almost always. I don't want to buy a new computer if that's not the problem but it seems to me that's there's something inside the computer not making contact. What do you think? Any tests I could do to check it out?

Answer
Hi Will,
I suppose it could either be connection issues inside the plugs, or it could be an internal connection problem between the socket pins and the circuit board to which they attach. I can probably copy the 2 plug's wiring connections but to test it I would then have to find out where all those wires are going for you to then test the continuity of each pin, which would be a major effort for me, and probably for you to do it.
I have not opened a pcm but if you inspect it to find how to get inside, you could then inspect the connections between all the pins of the socket and the circuit board and possibly reheat each with a soldering pencil.
Is there any way you can wedge the plugs in place to effect a cure?
Roland

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Roland Finston

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Get a Free Fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

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I have do-it-yourself experience (50+ years) and a library of 100 1982-2012 Chrysler factory shop manuals and 20 multi-manual Chrysler Corp. CD's.

I was voted "Top expert" from 2010-2015 here at AllExperts, and have answered 20,000+ questions.

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Five decades as a 'do-it-yourselfer' on domestic and imported cars

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Yahoo Autos Group called The Chrysler Lebaron Club (co-moderator)

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Degrees in Physics/bruised knuckles.

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"Top expert" of 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, and 2015 here at Allexperts. Quickest "average response time" at Allexperts (currently no. 1).

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