About Anne Hoffmann Expertise As a modest collector of appropriately vintage age, I'm good at identifying American vintage dolls (largely late 1940's-1970's) and have the interest and resources to research particularly challenging identifications. I would hesitate to make specific value estimates, however, as markets fluctuate and I am not a professional appraiser. I can recommend at-home repair methods and resources for particular repair instructions and supplies. I can differentiate repairs that will enhance or devalue the historical significance of your doll.
Experience For one, I am 58 and a life-long doll lover. I played with many of these dolls! I am an adult collector, hampered only by my inability to afford the high-end and rare collectibles. I do some doll identification for sellers on eBay and am in demand for local yard sale and church pricing of doll "finds". I like folks to be able to realize a good return for their offerings by correctly identifying their dolls for collectors. I am highly literate and like people as well as dolls! I was briefy a customer service associate for JC Penney (one of those "filler" jobs) and enjoyed resolving issues to customer satisfaction. I am retired and spend a lot of time studying dolls. On the down side, while having an excellent command of the English language, I am a poor typist.
Education/Credentials None for doll collecting. I was a draftsman and machine programmer for an architectural metal firm.
Doll Collecting - Prices on Madem Alexander Dolls from the 70's
Expert: Anne Hoffmann - 1/16/2008
Question QUESTION: I would like to know if you could tell me or (direct me) what some of my dolls are worth.
ANSWER: Madame Alexander dolls are a high-end commercial manufacture, so, despite a recent dip in secondary market prices, generally retain good value over the years. Of course, there a hundreds of MA issues and values may vary widely according to market interest in one issue over another. 1970's dolls are not yet truly vintage, although the children that remember these dolls new are now adults.
Secondary market values are based primarily on current interest, then condition, rarity, age or historical importance and originality.
The best place to assess current trends is on ebay, as it reaches a world-wide market and has a competitive auction format. Stores, including online stores, often charge appreciably more than the winning bids at auction. Other online auctions useful in placing doll values are Proxibid and Kovals.
There are quite a few doll value reference books for MA dolls, which are useful guides, particularly for less well-known dolls. A partial list of some more recent MA value reference books can be viewed at: http://www.bamagal.com/alexdolls/books.htm
Remember, values fluctuate according to current interest, so it is not possible to affix a realistic current value to an out-dated earlier book value by simply adding an amount to cover inflation. Also bear in mind that condition, including original or contemporary clothing and accessories, is of primary importance in comparative valuation. Book values, unless otherwise stated, are for the best known example of a particular doll.
Madame Alexander has a website and a responsive customer service helpful in identifying MA dolls, but they do not do appraisals. They may, however, be able to suggest sources for reliable MA doll appraisals.
You may want to consider having your dolls professionally appraised, especially for insurance purposes. Theriaults.com, the famous doll auction house, has appraisal services and debrasdoll.com and www.nadda.org are useful sites for finding a doll appraiser near you. There is a small charge for appraisals, but may be very well worth the cost if you are planning to sell and want to realize the best price for each doll. Many insurance companies require a written appraisal for collectibles such as dolls. Check with your agent or insurance company for individual requirements.
If you are simply curious as to the values for your own interest, do watch the ebay auctions over a period of time. It may take a while before an exact match to one of your dolls comes up for auction, but you can get a perspective on values for issues within the same era in the meantime.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: I would assume that with the origanal clothing and box they would be worth more.
Answer Book values, especially in the case of recent dolls, such as 1970's Madame Alexander, would be based on a doll in mint or near-mint condition, which would naturally include original clothing and accessories. Appropriately-styled and fitted clothing contemporary to the date of issue adds value over an undressed doll.
Original packaging often adds somewhat to the overall historical value of the doll, but it is not an intrinsic part of the doll. Most boxes do not enable the best of display of the doll itself and are bulky to store. Most doll valuations are made on the doll itself, not the packaging. Vintage and antique packaging is another area of interest entirely.
Interesting boxes make a nice addition to a display alongside the doll, but are often not the best place to store a doll, unless the doll is separately wrapped in new acid-free tissue paper and the box placed so that the doll is in an upright or pillowed face-down position. (The pillow should be made of unbleached cotton batting, covered with unbleached muslin.) Dolls with sleep eyes have weights in the eye mechanism. A doll kept for an extended period of time in "sleep" position, i.e., on her back, will develop a sticking eye problem due to the eye weights being perpetually forced forward. Also, in the case of vinyl dolls, the back of the head may become flattened during long storage in sleep position. Rooted hair may incur pressure breakage along the root line and wigs are flattened.
Metal ties (even plastic-covered ties!) and pins can cause irremediable rust spots on the doll or doll clothing. Doll earrings with metal posts can cause "green ear" over the years and should be removed periodically for cleaning. Any metal doll jewelry should likewise be removed and cleaned periodically. Dolls should be stored in a dry, temperature-controlled environment. Humidity, direct sunlight and dust are all damaging to other materials.
Most commercial doll boxes are not acid-free material and can cause their own damage to the doll as the boxes disintegrate over time. Acidic fibers from the box leach into the doll body, the hair and the clothing material. Acid-free textile conservation boxes and tissue paper are available at many doll hospitals, drycleaners and online.
No doll should EVER be stored in a plastic wrap nor for long periods in a PVC container. Foam rubber should never be used to cushion dolls for any length of time.
Obviously, damage caused to the doll by long storage in the original box decreases the actual value of the doll, rather than the box enhancing value.
Except for some modern-issue Barbies and action figures, NRFB original packaging does not really add greatly to the value of a doll. The doll itself, its condition, completeness and workmanship, is the object of the valuation.
I have several vintage dolls with their original boxes, but the dolls are displayed and stored in rotation and never stored in their original boxes. The fact that the doll came with her original box made not the least difference to me at the point of purchase. I paid only as much as I would have for that doll unpackaged in similarly excellent condition. In buying a doll advertised as MIB or NRFB, buyers should always make sure that the doll itself has satisfactorily weathered the hazards of long-term storage. Original packaging does not mean the contents are as well-preserved, due to the factors enumerated above.
FOLLOW UP:
I find I am going to have to revise my answer on the box question here, as a number of collectors have taken me to task for so lightly considering the box as a factor in the overall value of the doll. I still maintain that the actual doll value is unaffected by the original packaging, but concede that MIB has additional appeal to many collectors as an historically complete package and will certainly garner more than a doll without the box, all other factors being equal.
No less an expert than Jan Foulke, author of the definitive Blue Book(s) of doll, cites in a forward "a never-played-with doll in original box with labels" as bringing "premium price". However, in her valuations, one finds virtually no reference to packaging or boxes. The dolls are valued on their own merit, including their costuming. Some doll value books do include values for MIB and NRFB dolls. If the value listed for a doll states MIB, the value is for the entire package: doll and box. One wouldn't again add for the box value.
Thus, the original box will add some value to a doll, but it is still the doll that is of primary importance by far in setting value to the whole package. (The 1988 Holiday Barbie seems to be an exception.) I wouldn't go crazy adding a large sum to the doll to account for the box. I note empty doll boxes go up for sale on ebay with some regularity, so that would be a good place to evaluate the distinct value of a particular box.
My cautions about storage of the doll still stand as being just plain good sense, and are, in fact, upon the recommendations of a curator. The box in no way enhances the value of the doll if it is causing damage to the doll. If you wish to properly preserve the original packaging, it should likewise be stored in a separate archival box and displayed away from direct sunlight or humidity.
Again, the clothing and accessories are always considered in the valuation of the doll.
