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Electric Motors/Franklin Electric 3/4HP Identification and Rotation


Hello, I have the following motors. The number is 1111664403. This runs CW. I also have 1112250401 and this runs CW as well and last I have 1111007455, which runs CCW. Can you explain woh to interpet these numbers? I was told the first numbers state where/who originally purchased the motor - IE Gasboy manufacturing may be 1111xxxx or 1112xxxx. Not sure. Would you be able to ID motor #1112280401. This info is to help replace all of our motors which were submerged during the huricane on Long Island.
Thank you for your time


I am unfortunately very experienced with floods. motors and other electrical equipment that has been just wet, to full of mud and contaminates of all types,      

First  we need to figure out or I need to know if the motors were energized when flooded,    sometimes there is enough notice and sometimes there is not,   

Submerged motors,  sometimes believe it or not,  run under water,    others short out right away,  

Cost wise  dependent on what these motors are,  and how many you have,   it might be more cost effective to dry out and refurbish the existing motors,    

The Manufacturer number might give us something,   but often if the motors came on a specific piece of equipment,       

If the motor is a standard NEMA frame,   identification should be no problem

If the motor is built and modified from standard,  [shaft size, length, threaded. special mounting, rpm,  duty cycle,   so on]     then purchasing the motor is generally only possible back through the manufacturer,        

The manufacturer might have installed a standard motor  but labeled it to identify them as the OEM replacement location.  But if it is standard NEMA   that is not necessary,   as the manufacturers who try and capture the aftermarket parts business    usually have a pretty hefty markup on a motor that is nothing but standard vanilla,   

Instead of going through the motor number which may or may not contain number coded information,   we can start with the nameplate data,  and maybe some measurements with a tape measure,     and go that route,     if they are standard motors,  then you have choices of most likely several different Manufacturers  and pricing,   

Then to the refurbishment,    again if they were not submerged there is a good chance the motos can be salvaged, and will be good as new,    if not better,  

This is very helpful approach if the motors are non standard,       non standard OEM Motors are often   again,  only available through the OEM at a premium,  

Lets say these motors have an extra long shaft  non NEMA  with threads,   then you have one choice  the OEM  or the OEM designated supplier,    

Another option is to take a standard motor and do whatever modifications needed to put back with the same form fit and function,     

So you have a lot of options,      I will check and see if Franklin does identify these motors with that number scheme or convention,      but also to do this at the most cost effective method,  I need the nameplate info,       

As far as rotation,   any or all of the motors might be externally reversible,   if not  then they should designate that the motor is single direction only          but even at that   push come to shove,   it is possible to go into the motor and bring out a lead or two and make the motor reversible,   

I see Gasboy,  not familiar with Gasboy yet,  but any chance these are mounted on gas pumps  and if so,   are they explosion proof?

The age of the motors will have an impact on information from Franklin,  anymore, most do not keep information on motors  even a few years old,        

There are also a couple ways we can approach refurbishing what you have.  If you have some sort of maintenance area,   and some tools,   and a capable mechanic,  I can most likely walk him through the refurbish process,      the only tool that might be needed, is a megger,  which is basically a glorified ohm meter, and measures the insulation value of the motor.

As we dry the motor windings we can track our process and get an indication if we are moving in the right direction,      a megger can be had at a Graingers for less than $100 and in some cases way less,    dependent on how many motors    and if we are only dealing with single phase motors that run on 220/230/240  or 110/115/120     then all you will need is a working fairly inexpensive megger   [megohmeter]

I know Johnstones has a megger, and combo amp clamp meter with volt meter   for around $79.00   

I will try Franklin with the existing numbers in the meantime,  I need the data off the nameplates if readable,   and one way to get that to me is to take a photo of the plate, and identify the motor with some sort of convention you will invent,      ie:  motor 1,  or gasfeed motor,  or some title that makes it easy for you to identify where it goes,   

Another option is to mail the motors to me, and we will do a pretest and give you a refurbish price,     at this point  I can only get in the ball park,  because I have no information as to what kind of enclosure, single or multiple speed motors,  added brakes or clutches,   or thermals,  tachometers,     so on,     

We refurbish motors up to thousands of Horsepower that have been submerged or just subjected to some type of flooding or moisture,    and once we are able to clean and remove any water and contaminates,  the windings can be dipped in electrical varnish and baked,  or if the motor is in good physical condition, meaning the windings are not worn, cracked from age, so on,  a simple spray on varnish is all that is needed,   

So if it just this three,  you mention ALL your motors so I read that as more than just the three,    but whatever the quantity,  there is room for a cost effective plan  using any option listed,          so if you could send me the nameplate data,    or a photo where I can read it,   and some sort of label   for your identification,   we can work it both ways at this point,       if the motors turn out to be standard NEMA motors,   then the options are many  from Franklin, Baldor, Marathon,  on and on,   

My Shop is MEAR Services Inc   Buckner Missouri,  [right outside Kansas City Proper]   the phone number is 816-650-4030, the email there is   my personal email is   and my cell is 816-665-2482   feel free to use which ever is better for you,   it is sort of cumbersome to go back and forth through about or allexperts,    so once we have made initial contact,   it is normal for most to just communicate with me directly,          I will get started on the Franklin numbers in a short while, and in the meantime if you could reply with quantity,  nameplate data or clear photos, ,  I can also cross the Franklin number with the nameplate data  to verify the number does match the nameplate  speed, frame, rotation, shaft size so on,      

If for some reason  all you have are the numbers and there are no nameplates,  we can still identify the motors.   but I will need for you to have someone provide me with some measurable information,      I will need first       is the motor F1 or F2   very important,   that tells us   looking at the connection box,    does the shaft come out to the left or right,  or it is a double shaft motor, or is the connection box on top?   Next the HP, and we know that at least three or all three if that is the quantity are 3/4 HP,   next the center to center bolt hole distance parallel to the shaft,  that is the double f dimension,    the center to center across the motor,   or perpendicular to the shaft  is the double e,   both are measured from the center of one hole to the center of the next,      some motors will have double holes on the "back" of the motor,    this is done to allow the frame to be used for two frame sizes,  say  a 182T and a 184T    you would measure the holes that you use, and be careful,   sometimes these double drilled holes   are used with the shorter holes on two motors,  and then for some reason,  the third might use the longer,  so do not assume if there are double holes,    them we need the shaft height,   that will be the height from the BOTTOM of the feet or the base, and the center line of the shaft,    if you get me within a quarter inch or half inch I should be able to work with it,    next is the U  which is the shaft diameter,  and description,   such as full keyway, half key, round shaft with flat,,  plus maybe threads, and will need the thread size    just use a nut to identify,    and look for any threads internal in the shaft,     where a brake or tachometer might need to be bolted on,       next will be the V dimension,   which is the useable length of the shaft, the shaft will exit the motor, with some sort of small taper  and you will be able to see where ehe useable part of the shaft starts,       then  the RPM     and we need it exact  it might be   1720 or 1785    both are four pole motors but the difference in slip is indicated by the rpm stamped on the plate,    

If the motors are two pole  the rpm will be something like  3565 or 3525   I can guide you or whomever you designate through any of this it is a fairly simple process  ONLY NEEDED IF THERE IS NO NAMEPLATE AND THE FRANKLIN CONVENTION is not verifiable,    

So there is a lot of information,  for a simple question  which I will get on shortly,  in the mean time  you can look over the other options,  and see if one appeals more than the other,  regardless we  will be able to help you identify the Franklin  if it is still a viable convention,   or identify the motor from its nameplate,     and the worst condition,   no nameplate and no Franklin convention that is either viable or used any longer,  or belongs to an OEM  and either they are now gone,  bought out, or charge a huge fee for replacement parts,

Also you may or may not be familiar with flooded electrical processes.,   if not,  you will want to either replace or dryout the feeds to the motor,  conduit  you have options or removing the conductors  drying them  and replacing the existing,  or simply replacing the conductors,   distance is often the determining factor,    if the motors are fed with some sort of RO cable  with multiple conductors in one sleeve,   wicking is a problem and replacement of any cord type supply cables is almost mandatory,  it is very hard to dry out, and will give good readings when dry  but can retain moisture and the insulation value will drop  suddenly,      of course all switches and breakers,  will need to be cleaned and dryed   or replaced,   cleaning and drying is a very dependable method depending on the type of component,   anything that can wick    should be replaced,   but drying a switch out, is a fairly simple process,     

We will communicate soon,       Will Babbitt  President MEAR Services Inc.   My Shop Foreman is Richard Hutson,  out this week,  but will be in Monday  

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Three phase/ AC DC single phase motors, controls, any problems or failures, motor installation, performance issues, connections. All other electric motors/gearboxes/apparatus. Specialty repair concerns, obsolete motors and solutions. Other mechanical or specialty equipment. See my profile under Home/electrical at this site


30 plus years in the electrical motor and apparatus repair industry. VP level management of repair facilities, current owner of my own specialty repair and consulting firm.

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