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Electric Motors/220-240v Motor connection to supply


GEC Connections drawing
GEC Connections drawin  

GEC Plate plus wiring
GEC Plate plus wiring  

I have two GEC motors where the internal wiring is different.
I.E. T1 & T4 terminals have internal wires of different colour/s.

I wish to connect Motor No 2 to UK 220-240v single phase power supply.

I hope the attached picture explains my confusion on this matter.

I also attach 3 pictures of the motor.

Thank you in advance on this matter.

Well first I cannot see the data fields on the photos,    second,   the internal MOTOR wiring COLORS normally mean nothing,    the important ID on the leads is the T1, T2 so on,      

I am looking at these and it almost appears the first motor with the two shunts  are putting 3 of 6 motor leads on line   T1 and T2 and A1 on red feed line

Then it appears the A leads are start leads,    if so,  swapping the A leads    ie    T1 and T2 and A2 on one feed line would determine one direction,  reversing and putting A1 with T1 and T2 for low would make the motor reverse.    

Normally A is a designation for DC motors    but I cannot find any information on these model numbers to tell me anything,      

Second  if the T leads  all four,   are there for dual voltage those are run windings,  if the motors are reversible,   then the four T leads   two each in parallel to line =low voltage

One T lead [normally T1 and T4]  are used for high   T2 and T3 are electrically tied together and isolated  giving a series connection for the high voltage side/choice]

If ran on high voltage T1 would go one feed line and T4 to the other,   the direction of counter or clockwise would be determined by the  A leads     by reversing them to either the

paired up low voltage T connections or the single high voltage connection,

But I am not sure what the A leads are,   they appear to see line voltage that would indicate they are motor windings however with an A letter,   it could be a line voltage overload,   hard to say without more information,      

Next it is rare that a pump motor is reversible,    for obvious reasons,   many impellers are threaded on,  and operated in the direction that tightens on the impeller,   few pumps can be swapped from in to out at the ports   interchangeably    normally the impeller is curved or skewed to drag the liquid or whatever in one direction,     

Next it does appear with the four T leads the motors are dual voltage but in the UK  I believe as opposed to hear in the US   low is 220,   50 Cycle    high is 380    

In the US low is 120,  high is 240   60 cycles,   cycles really have no effect on this issue    but the ability to have low and high voltage choices is normal,  but reversing is not normal for a pump,   normally the rotation is fixed internally     again I cannot read the name plates,         

As to the first motor not starting,  10 years of no service,   they could be grounded from deteriorated insulation,  rusted bearings,  bad internal switches, capacitors etc,    

Unless a load is just locked solid   a motor uses 4 to 10 times inrush current to start  loaded or not,  matters not,     so rarely does a belt hold back a motor, the motor would try to slip the belt or hum or trip some kind of overload,      not sure what you are getting but no rotation,      hard or impossible to say what after ten years the problem[s] could be.

But if the internal wiring of the motor viewed from the users view is different from one to the next it should not matter,    few motors are wired with colors, mostly letters or numbers    there are some US NEMA standard colors for vanilla motors that indicate what each one is, but that is rarely a consideration,   the important data is the T1 through T4  indicating that the run winding can be wired externally in parallel for low, and in series for high,  and then those A leads which look connected in  could be start leads,     but most IEC motors don't use A except on DC       I can barely make out AC on the nameplate,    so I doubt we have any rectifiers or anything inside,   

You might try a closer up set of photos,       you can send them to my shop at     use attn WILL  allexpert pump issue in the subject line,  versus going back through allexperts it is generally more efficient to send emails and attachments that way     up to you,          

But if this first motor or both motors have sat for 10 years,  with no power,  they absolutely need to be refurbished,    and a determination of the internal insulation condition made at the same time,    

You say it does not start belt or not,   does it hum, does it trip breakers what happens?

I would replay that info from past attempts     and not energize these motors any further until they are looked at, cleaned and refurbished.

The reason for that is if the insulation over 10 years has deteriorated and most likely has, plus wicked moisture,  the insulation could be very low in value    if voltage is applied it could break down completely and ruin the windings,     if the insulation is just wet or damp  it is relatively easy to dry it out, and recoat the insulation  to an acceptable value,     

So you have quite a complex of things going on,     first I need a better photo of nameplates and connection diagrams if available,      so I can try and determine exactly what you are dealing with.


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Three phase/ AC DC single phase motors, controls, any problems or failures, motor installation, performance issues, connections. All other electric motors/gearboxes/apparatus. Specialty repair concerns, obsolete motors and solutions. Other mechanical or specialty equipment. See my profile under Home/electrical at this site


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