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Question
Do you know of a replacement motor for r22ccw2702d. this motor and fan mounts on the back of a wood burning insert. 115v,1.1/.70/.55amps,60hz , 1ph ,thermally protected lr16209    .  It has a thermostatic controll but i think its in the wireing harness. That went out first then it may not be in the harness . Im lost on this one.

Answer
We have had these little RMR motors sent to our shop for years,   they are on thousands of wood burning devices,    from in wall units, to free standing fireboxes,   the problem is there is no other motor that fits devices with RMR Motors,  they come in non NEMA sizes and configurations,    

Repairs run $75.00 to $200 depending on the issue, and most of them have the sleeve bearings worn out,  some have the bearing journals worn out,   


How to tell,     if you can move the shaft in an AXIAL direction,  not back and forth  but upand down if you will,  that means the clearances of the motor bearings are gone and with that some will start now and then  some just lock up,   

Any local motor shop should be able to put a test voltage to it   and tell you if the motor is bad,

Because you are troubleshooting the motor and the wiring,    you nee to take one out of the equation,    so I would not buy a motor until I know if the current motor is bad,    and one way to do that is run it to a local motor shop,  

Most will just measure it for insulation value,  [megger]  then if the insulation is good, they will fire it up on a test panel and measure the current,  it will be good or bad,  

 It only takes minutes to do this, and if someone walks in our shop with something like that, it is more expensive to write up the ticket than it is to test it,  so we just do it, and go from there,  so I would not expect a bill or much of one,  it is just not that big of a deal,


Now you say something went out first, what if anything was replaced?

I need a little clarification on what the history of all this is  to help you,    so if you could provide me some more details,    what was happening, what was replaced,  just the history of the unit failing to work,    I will walk you through as possible the steps to fix it,      but the first one, if you have the motor off,  is to get it tested,   

But before you do that,   hold the motor tight in vice or grip it tight,  and if you can wiggle the output shaft or shafts    up and down,  it is bad    

I have only seen a couple RMR motors that were burnt    in thousands of them  at least hundreds     mostly all have the bearings go bad,        

Make sure if there is an oil port, and most of these do,  that the there is oil in the wicking,  

Use regular 3 in one oil   that is fine,  a few drops,  rotate shaft     few more   rotate shart,     but dont flood it with oil,  


Next  we find these motors might install in various positions,      THE OIL CUP OR OILING HOLE GOES  UP    !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have seen where the motor was not marked before removal     use a punch and make a pin point on the motor and on the unit,  so it goes back where it was,       but I have seen the oil hole down and the oil leaks out,       then it fails,       

So pay attention to the location   take photos to refer to,       then remove it    and get it tested unless you can tell there is slop in the bearings,        if so    then let me know and we can see if you can get it fixed locally or you can send it to me,      


Not many shops will fool with these little motors, but they are special and the heart of very expensive heating devices,      so there is a way,   we just need to approach it with a plan,  

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Expertise

Three phase/ AC DC single phase motors, controls, any problems or failures, motor installation, performance issues, connections. All other electric motors/gearboxes/apparatus. Specialty repair concerns, obsolete motors and solutions. Other mechanical or specialty equipment. See my profile under Home/electrical at this site

Experience

30 plus years in the electrical motor and apparatus repair industry. VP level management of repair facilities, current owner of my own specialty repair and consulting firm.

Organizations
EASA, IBEW [retired], other specialty organizations, Lubrication, Vibration EDI, Tribo-electric Councils

Publications
Currently fielding concerns at this site under "Home Electrical"

Education/Credentials
4 year technical, College level specific courses, EASA repair courses, vibration analysis electronic and electrical trade school.

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