Electric Motors/Motor Wiring For 3 Wire 220V Cap motor
I have a wood shaper with a 1 ph 220V ( 0nly ) 3 HP motor with a capacitor on the outside. It has 3 wires coming out of motor housing to the connection box + ground connection. They are colored red, black and white + ground lug.
When I purchased this machine I never wanted the magnetic thermo cut off on off switch, the rev / stop / fwd switch or the motor so I removed all 3 pieces.
The only wires I removed where the red, blk, wht, and the green ground from the motor connection box that is fastened to the motor body. These 3 items were put aside and never used.
Now years later I have decided to put things back together. Bolted everything in place and ran the wire from the reversing switch into the motor area . Remember only 3 wires + ground, green was removed. I put R to R, Blk to Blk, and W to W and green to gnd lug. Will in forward she just hums and popped the overload in the switch.. In Rev she runs forward, clockwise. I switched wires around and can rev what I said above, I can rewire and have rev going forward and forward going rev for approximately 5 seconds then pops overload in on / off switch. Can not get forward to be forward and rev to be rev even for short time. Seems crazy to me as all the wiring on the on/off and the reversing drum type revolving was never touched. Of course if it ever worked from the factory we can never tell. Thank you kindly.
P.S. I have a funny feeling that one of the wires coming out of the motor is from the cap and is going to the reversing switch to be combined with one of the windings in the motor for start up ???
Thank you again.
Sounds like it was wired off, start not reversing, it takes the ends of both the start winding and the run windings to reverse if you had two runs and one start, then the only way three wires would work is with one end of the start winding center taped in a fixed connection internally then you could swap the left over start with either run for a direction,
Can you ohm it out and tell anything? Can the two runs should have a circuit and the other "start' would look like this run winding RL1........... center ...........RL2
start winding *................SL
Much like a PSC permanent split capacitor motor, normally there are four, both starts and both runs, above would be the only way I could see it reversing
would be direction one RL1 to line with SL
Reverse RL2 to line with SL and high voltage as the start winding would be 115 center tapped off the run,
Take a look at these drum controller diagrams and see if any of these help, but you have to swap both starts or both runs with either or for reversing, in a non PSC type motor, and then again on high voltage,
In the explanation below he is speaking of run T2 and run T3 as the center of the run winding for dual voltage,
Only three poles are required to perform both the motor controller and disconnect functions.
First, you have to decide whether you are going to reverse the run winding or reverse the start winding.
Usually, it is best to reverse the start winding, as this makes conversion from 120 to 240, or from 240 to 120 a little easier.
Let's say your drum switch (Furnas, for example) passes through the L1 and L2 on the outer two poles, and the reversing is done on the inner pole.
Connect T1 to the drum switch terminal which corresponds to L1 and T4 to the drum switch terminal which corresponds to L2.
If the desired voltage is 240, then connect T3 to T2.
If the desired voltage is 120, then connect T3 to T1 and connect T2 to T4.
That connects the run winding, which is not reversed.
Now, for the start winding, assume the wires are labeled T5 and T8 (this varies quite a bit).
For 240 volts, connect one start winding wire to the junction of T3 and T2 (the start winding is always operated on 120 volts, even if the motor is 120/240 volts), and the other wire to a remaining drum switch terminal.
For 120 volts, connect the start winding wires to the remaining drum switch terminals.
Above is from the link below,
Or it was simply never wired to reverse as you thought, Note when you get it to run in both directions but opposite of the printed directions and it runs in both directions then trips out, it sounds like the start is not coming off the line, what voltage? What current?
Can you provide the ohmage between the three colors ?? If it is center taped for high 23O only then the center tapped start lead should by manual connection run with the single start to one run, then the other, and the ohms would show that pattern, such as R to B 100 ohms w to either R or B 50 ohms [I just plucked ohm numbers out of the air not applicable only to explain what you might find, as a reading an over all total then half the over all total from the center tap to either end of the remaining two]
Try it manually if you cannot make it run manually in both directions then something need s to be changed and it was just wired for on off but I would think in that case they would just use a single starter, let me know what you find after looking over the diagrams and descriptions of connections,