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Leeson motor wiring
Leeson motor wiring  

Leeson motor specs
Leeson motor specs  
Question: I have an air compressor that had an Ingersoll Rand electric motor, but it died so I replaced it with a Leeson electric motor. The specs for the old motor and new motor are exactly the same. I have the motor mounted and ready to go, the only problem I have is with the electrical wiring. The wiring that comes from the pressure switch to the electric motor has three wires (black, white, and green). The Leeson motor has seven wires (green, P1, blue, red, T1, black, and white). So as you can see I'm a little confused on how to go about this. I attached pics of  Leeson motor wiring and the Leeson motor specs which contains the wiring diagram. When you look at the specs the motor can be wired to run clock wise or counter clock wise. I need it to run counter clock wise. With that said, this is how I thought it should be wired. Please be kind with your reply as I did some research and I'm making an educated guess :)  

Green to Green
P1 to Black
White/Black to White
Blue/Red/T1 stay bundled together and don't connect to anything.

Thank you.

Answer
Chris   this is 230 volts or somewhere around 230 right?

I think you are confused with black and white as hot and neutral,     


The motor don't care  and at 220 volts  both motor leads expect 220 or so line to line,   


The connection you printed out,  matches the CCW connection at 230 volts    220  230  229 so on,  all the same thing,

As both motor leads   you end up with two actually      there is an internal protector in the motor the P lead is a motor winding lead through a thermal,    no big deal,     basically black and red reverse the motor        


You got it,    bundle the three     electrically connect  and tape off,     or wire nut and tape off,     remember some vibration might be shaking the motor so don't make your three wire bundle the size of a golf ball,  but do make sure all three are well connected, and then the insulation is tight to the bundle so it won't shake off,       I prefer a split bolt versus a wire nut,   or stripped back and soldered          but a wire nut is fine if you tape it well,          then the black white turns into a lead,        the P lead is lead     there is your 220  two leads       then the green is frame or chassis ground,       to bond the earth ground all the way through  


You got it,        it is confusing    the thermals are rarely much help,  but they put them in there,          


So carry on       just make sure we are talking a replacement 230 volt motor for the existing 230 volt motor   dual voltage gets even more confusing,     but you dont have that,   


Past that you had it all along,          if you have any problems     let me know and we will figure whatever out,     but yea,  you got  two wires that turn into one motor lead     for rotation,          the rest is that bundle    what that bundle does is tap the start winding  midway    so it is 110 volts,     that way they can make a bunch of motors that can be used in many configurations     and they confuse the hell out of everyone by doing that,          

No worries,      what happened to the old motor?   Got any idea?    Old age?    Just something to consider,    if something specific killed the old motor,     it will kill the new one,      

A fuse block in line with this is much better protection than a breaker,     breakers are two slow     so if you want to protect the motor   get a fuse block and or a fused disconnect,     with dual element fuses,      use the full load amps to size the fuses,         


Or you can skip that and let the thermal do the protecting,        not my choice  but many run for decades that way,      


If you get confused or anything does not work right      just let me know and we will figure it out    but you are good to go  

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Three phase/ AC DC single phase motors, controls, any problems or failures, motor installation, performance issues, connections. All other electric motors/gearboxes/apparatus. Specialty repair concerns, obsolete motors and solutions. Other mechanical or specialty equipment. See my profile under Home/electrical at this site

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30 plus years in the electrical motor and apparatus repair industry. VP level management of repair facilities, current owner of my own specialty repair and consulting firm.

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4 year technical, College level specific courses, EASA repair courses, vibration analysis electronic and electrical trade school.

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