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Electrical Wiring in the Home/Repairing a 20 year old gas dryer


QUESTION: Hello. First noticed problem when I noticed dryer never stopped running on one occasion and the next time I used it, it never heated. Watched some videos. Bought a cheap analog multimeter at Walmart. Found lots of lint in bottom of dryer. (My lint trap is on the top). Dryer in basement with exhaust duct one level up and hose run vertically. Meter has 10, 100, and 1K setting for ohms. Ran tests and realized I was getting false reading because I had not disconnected the wires. Couple questions. Should I run ohms test at 10 or another setting. Videos gave different answers. Second spent at least 30 minutes trying to pry wires off of spades for the fuse and have nicks all over my hands. I still have to get the wires off the two thermostats in the back of the machine. Is there a tool to help in accomplishing this. Vacuumed out the hose and down under the lint trap as well as vent holes in back of dryer. Came up with 3 good handfuls of lint. Hoping that I don't have to replace anything in the front. Would sure appreciate any help/advise.
Thank you!

ANSWER: OK   Cathy   quite the project,  you say it never stopped running?    Then it had no heat?

Sounds like a thermal that is open or thermistor that is open,   and not allowing the heat to turn on,    

To get the wires off something like a button thermal,   get a small spray bottle of WD-40 with a straw, and squirt just a drop on the connection where the outer spade is pushed on the inner or male spade,    just a drop,    then get a pair of needle nose pliers,  grabbing the spade shank which is the part of the spade that is crimped on the wire,   DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRE ITSELF<

Grasp the end of the spade after the wd soaks for at least 15 minutes overnight is better,   rock it gently back and forth,  with pressure pulling it off at the same time,     of you can use a very thin blade of some type and push the spade off or at least loose by using a "prying motion".

As far as the ohms scale  yes you will get false reading if you do not isolate the device you are measuring,     to know what scale on the meter,     first try and determine what the ohm value should be,   say it is      100 ohms,     depending on the meter, if you have a X 1 or X 10 scale either should work,      try and get in the middle of the value      if it is 50 ohms  whatever scales you have that puts 50 ohms  not micro ohms   but OHMs,     if the thermistor or thermal is a bimetal switch it will be a low value    in the 10X or 1 X scale   if it is a thermistor,  it would be up in the thousands of ohms where you would use the times 100 scale,       most of the time you are looking for an open      no resistance   or a short like touching both the tips together on the times one scale,      1 ohm use the times point 1   for 10 ohms use the times 1,  for 100 ohms use times 10  for a thousand ohms use times 100  so on,   

Then let me know what you find,    either it is an open thermal  very common failure,  or a controller failure,   or a thermocouple failure,   

Always always look for the simple answer first,  get a GOOD LIGHT and look for broken wire, wires with darkened areas,    wires that have just vibrated off.  Doing a good visual with plenty of light will avoid having hours of diagnostic time,   

Cool you are doing this,   use my personal email anytime and I will help you 50 times if needed and we will diagnose this dryer,       make sure   make danm sure there is no power or no way to get power on  or to the dryer       make sure the gas supply is off   if there is a bleed off     bleed it off,      we dont want sparks causing a problem    

Take a look at the thermal couple  it should be a J couple   and with a value at room temperature that could be measured with the cheapest of meters,       

But let me know how you get along  and if you need help with every single item,   just ask,  


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Looks like the culprit is the thermal fuse. Would it be worthwhile to consider a venting fan since the hose has to go up a floor?

Good job in isolating the problem,   as to the venting fan, it gets complicated,  fans and blowers are two different animals,     how would you figure CFM,  what would trigger it,  is there a reason to consider a modification to the machine other than it exits up 10 feet?

Heat also rises,    If you think you have a lack of exhaust yes,    but you need some research

Can you feel the exhaust at all?   If you can feel it blowing out,  it is probably better to leave alone,    mods to exhaust are like mods to automobiles,    a booster in line FAN isn't going to create too much draw,   if any,    but you don't want to create a problem where none exists.  
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Will Babbitt


Electrical issues of all types, wiring, control, appliances, components, specialty in Electric MOTOR or APPARATUS trouble shooting, electric motors, electrical problems, single phase, three phase, DC, capacitors, elevator MG-Sets, modifications, reverse engineering, VFD Drives, single to three phase convertors. Repair of most any electrical/mechanical/electronic apparatus, OEM, AC, DC, Industrial Applications, Three phase, single phase failure mode, determining the root cause of the equipment failure BEFORE failure repeats, Antique appliances, electric motors, fans, ceiling fans, base mount fans, poor equipment performance, Modifications, habitual failures, vibration, redesign, obsolete issues, collectible items restored, rewinding. Owner of EMR Repair Inc More information on electric motors, under Engineering/Motors Ask about any electrical or mechanical problems in the home, office, or even at your work. B2B or business to business CONSULTING I can do but it would be a much more complex issue, that would require a significant amount of time. from there we can discuss and begin work on about anything. Industrial electric motors, controls, troubleshooting, vibration, alignment, any type of industrial or commercial electric/electrcical equipment For the home owner, renter, apartment if you have odd things going on, describe to me, photos are normally very helpful, appliances, heating and air conditioning issues, light switches, installation, DIY PROJECTS FOR THOSE NOT EDUCATED IN ELECTRICAL, we can do some things, but for safety and sanity reasons, I may refer you to a local electrician, and help you find one, help you with pricing and even speak directly with anyone you hire if you have issues,


Over thirty years with a major repair and sales company, VP of Operations, and former owner of my own specialty repair shops, MEAR Services local to Kansas City Missouri EMR Repair Inc., located in Kansas City Missouri, 2014 sold both businesses to JCI Industries, Lee's Summit Missouri Evaluation and repair of electrical/mechanical apparatus. Electrical and mechanical repairs, trouble shooting including, vibration and balance issues. provides this service, and the huge costs to provide help on about any subject. They provide the servers, the people to vet the experts, costs that would be the same as operating a good sized business, They should be appreciated for what they do, the huge costs and the great help they provide for free, Electric motor questions, can be answered here but there is a dedicated category that has other experts to help and add to a solution. Other common questions, are noises in the walls, breakers tripping, devices not starting or shutting down for no apparent reason, smoke alarms buzzing, thermostat change outs, or sizing wire or needing information for a new project, but anything can be resolved, anything, with enough effort and patience, DIY, with electrical is possible, but in most cases the use of a simple ohm meter or volt meter is needed, they can be purchased at any hardware store for a few bucks. If you have smoke, or smell smoke, don't be writing me, call 911 the Fire Department has no problem looking for smoke smells, better then spraying water on a blazing fire. DO NOT GET CAUGHT INVESTIGATING AND TRAPPED IN A BASEMENT LOOKING FOR A BLOWER FAILING< As to the tip jar, it is up to you, it is appreciated, every expert spends out of pocket that I know, we spend on IP time, computer wear, printing documents, books, and of course our time, but if we prevent a $400 service call, we did well,

Former IBEW, EASA, IEEE, UL, ..............


10 plus years, various Technical Schools, followed by Industrial College Credit and non Credit Courses, electronics courses, experience in most any electrical apparatus, electric motors and generators, AC OR DC, fractional to above 5000HP, other electrical apparatus, slip rings, sleeve [plain] bearings, lubrication, identification-no data plate, control components, service and sales. I have continued night schools for decades, the list is extensive. I have been in the business of repairing most anything with wires or mechanical parts for decades, I have some helpful hints and directions you won't have to dig up. Or hopefully not have to pay a huge service call invoice to find.

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