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Electrical Wiring in the Home/Repair craftman motor model 62855


The motor on my Sears Craftsman direct drive table saw has apparently seized up.  I was using it today to rip a number of narrow wood strips.  There was no obvious problem with the saw.  After shutting down to get another board the saw would not re- start.  I disconnected/removed the direct drive and retried turning on the saw.  Again it would not start and a light on the same circuit dimmed indicating there was a power draw.  

After reading a previous answer re this model motor I wish to know if repair is possible and where it can be done.  

Saw model number 113241680
Serial #/manufacturing data  6192 PO596

Motor Mfg model C55OFC2045
???? Number    651954
Mf # 06563

In advance thank you for your response to this question and guidance in solving the problem.

Bob Wheeler

Original answer below approx half way down page:

Bob, it is amazing how crap gets sucked up in an electric motor.  The process has to be done with some care, and can only be done WITHOUT disassembly if the motor is an open drip or vented motor,  and dry air must be used,  or if damp compressed air is introduced, let the motor dry for a few days   or you can CAREFULLY  turn on a stove  [remember you will probably have to clean the over to remove the smell that may come]   

Turn on oven to lowest temp,    set motor on a substantial cookie sheet or other flat metal.

When oven reaches temp most ovens only allow 170f to prevent un wdercooking, which is fine.

Never bake a motor or windings over boiling temp,  if any moisture is trapped in the windings, it could force the moisture to pop the insulation.

Once the oven is up to temp,  shut IT OFF.  Place motor in oven until it cools normally.  Times will vary     the reason for this is not to bring a warm motor out and then suck humidity into it.

Try to blow out the motor where it is blown from intake air vents to relief air vents,  while rotating the shaft,     

At times it will free the motor,   but may blow some contamination in between the starting contacts if so equipped,  not to worry,  if it energized before and was simply locked with crap,  and some gets between the contacts  it may try to start slowly SLOWLY on the run windings,   continue to blow while rotating the shaft,  and eventually you will blow the contaminant from in between the contacts on the start switch.

Glad you were successful,  and now that we know you have oil in the motor,  it might be a good time to either have the motor taken apart or do it yourself, but that oil will continue to attract junk,     

And where did the oil come from?   Motors with plain or sleeve bearings should only need a few drops of multi use oil,    a couple times a year,    it is captured in wicking on small motors,  larger motors have sight glasses to check the oil level,    so you want to make sure the wicking is damp with oil  but not to squirt a half gallon of oil in a small motor,    

[we have found industrial motors which need grease for ball bearings FULL OF GREASE  [we are talking a literal bucket of grease]   

Point is do not over lube    it causes more problems than under lubing,    

Never use a compressed air blower tip into the motor where it could jab the windings or break a lead or component.

Now think about the motors under your fridge,  your washer, dryer, freezer, attic fan, furnace, condensing unit,  on and on,  we all have a ton of motors      a somewhat daunting task list but more motors fail from external contamination than about anything,     

If the motor blows fairly dry   probably ok    but if extremely oily or wet  it should be taken apart and cleaned out and baked
Now once you have the oily mess out    try it again in 4 hours of use     if more comes out,  do it again,   and again     once no more of anything exits the motor,   simply running the motor to temp will help dry it out,       if you can figure a way to run the motor outside on a bright sunny day that will help dry it too,        

Motors are not that hard to take apart   just no force is needed   at least on the housings to stator,   the pulley can become rusted and coupling halves can become stuck but the motor should come apart at least an inch   if it sticks when removing a housing  there is probably a wire attached from stator to housing  so look in the open area,      

once apart  you can clean the winding with a fast drying solvent  brake cleaner will work but dont soak it,  clean it,      even soap and water will work  but you must dry out the wiring and windings  so have a plan,  before getting a winding wet,      good job and I would and do take my critical motors apart and clean them once a year,     

OEM furnace motors can run over $500.00    so consider it a paid job worth $500.00    

Good job  glad to hear it was the simple problem      if you have more problems let me know   those older saws were built a lot more tough than modern motors or entire devices   so keeping it up and running is just a matter of maintenance          good to hear you are back running

Bob,  if you heard  [over the normal loud noise when using the saw]  [a problem in itself being able to hear the motor]  was making some kind of unusual noise prior to the "lockup' it is most likely that a bearing or bearing and housing,   or bearing[s] housing[s] and or journal[s] have worn naturally out of tolerance.

A good motor repair shop in your area should be able to bush a housing, repair a journal and install a fresh set of bearings.

Second possible cause,  over time these motors tend to fill with dust and contaminates along with condensation and actually plug the very small gap between stator and rotor.

One thing you might try as a down and dirty and cheap fix      find some dry comnpressed air,  find if possible an opening to the inside of the motor  with hopefully an exit,    

Slowy turn the shaft by hand  while blowing the compressed air into the motor, it may dislodge any blockage and allow the motor to churn out the remainder,   it is worth a shot,  

But right now if the shaft has exessive shaft play  especially radially,   or in an axial direction,   the motor should come apart and be diagnoised.

Locked up is one thing, but looseness  is an absolute sign that a bearing has crashed or a housing or journal as above.

If you are skilled,  you can do the dismantel yourself with these tips,    take photos prior to and as you go and mark them for reassembly

Mark each compentent   use a small drill  less than 1/16 to mark mating positions   that way no chisels no distortion, and no magic markers to wear off,     then you have matched holes that line up going back together.

I cannot say if you had a bearing failure or just finally got enough junk in the motor to lock it   but it DOES HAPPEN     especially in a high humid enviroment, high humid materials  so on,     it just depends if you are locked up or have looseness FIRST   looseness   means repair,  locked up might be a simple blow out of the motor,    other than that find a local motor repair shop and get an estimate,   please contact with the price, and I will review for you,      if you decide to tackle on your own,  write me back through ABOUT or at my personal email and I will help walk you through it.  
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Will Babbitt


Electrical issues of all types, wiring, control, appliances, components, specialty in Electric MOTOR or APPARATUS trouble shooting, electric motors, electrical problems, single phase, three phase, DC, capacitors, elevator MG-Sets, modifications, reverse engineering, VFD Drives, single to three phase convertors. Repair of most any electrical/mechanical/electronic apparatus, OEM, AC, DC, Industrial Applications, Three phase, single phase failure mode, determining the root cause of the equipment failure BEFORE failure repeats, Antique appliances, electric motors, fans, ceiling fans, base mount fans, poor equipment performance, Modifications, habitual failures, vibration, redesign, obsolete issues, collectible items restored, rewinding. Owner of EMR Repair Inc More information on electric motors, under Engineering/Motors Ask about any electrical or mechanical problems in the home, office, or even at your work. B2B or business to business CONSULTING I can do but it would be a much more complex issue, that would require a significant amount of time. from there we can discuss and begin work on about anything. Industrial electric motors, controls, troubleshooting, vibration, alignment, any type of industrial or commercial electric/electrcical equipment For the home owner, renter, apartment if you have odd things going on, describe to me, photos are normally very helpful, appliances, heating and air conditioning issues, light switches, installation, DIY PROJECTS FOR THOSE NOT EDUCATED IN ELECTRICAL, we can do some things, but for safety and sanity reasons, I may refer you to a local electrician, and help you find one, help you with pricing and even speak directly with anyone you hire if you have issues,


Over thirty years with a major repair and sales company, VP of Operations, and former owner of my own specialty repair shops, MEAR Services local to Kansas City Missouri EMR Repair Inc., located in Kansas City Missouri, 2014 sold both businesses to JCI Industries, Lee's Summit Missouri Evaluation and repair of electrical/mechanical apparatus. Electrical and mechanical repairs, trouble shooting including, vibration and balance issues. provides this service, and the huge costs to provide help on about any subject. They provide the servers, the people to vet the experts, costs that would be the same as operating a good sized business, They should be appreciated for what they do, the huge costs and the great help they provide for free, Electric motor questions, can be answered here but there is a dedicated category that has other experts to help and add to a solution. Other common questions, are noises in the walls, breakers tripping, devices not starting or shutting down for no apparent reason, smoke alarms buzzing, thermostat change outs, or sizing wire or needing information for a new project, but anything can be resolved, anything, with enough effort and patience, DIY, with electrical is possible, but in most cases the use of a simple ohm meter or volt meter is needed, they can be purchased at any hardware store for a few bucks. If you have smoke, or smell smoke, don't be writing me, call 911 the Fire Department has no problem looking for smoke smells, better then spraying water on a blazing fire. DO NOT GET CAUGHT INVESTIGATING AND TRAPPED IN A BASEMENT LOOKING FOR A BLOWER FAILING< As to the tip jar, it is up to you, it is appreciated, every expert spends out of pocket that I know, we spend on IP time, computer wear, printing documents, books, and of course our time, but if we prevent a $400 service call, we did well,

Former IBEW, EASA, IEEE, UL, ..............


10 plus years, various Technical Schools, followed by Industrial College Credit and non Credit Courses, electronics courses, experience in most any electrical apparatus, electric motors and generators, AC OR DC, fractional to above 5000HP, other electrical apparatus, slip rings, sleeve [plain] bearings, lubrication, identification-no data plate, control components, service and sales. I have continued night schools for decades, the list is extensive. I have been in the business of repairing most anything with wires or mechanical parts for decades, I have some helpful hints and directions you won't have to dig up. Or hopefully not have to pay a huge service call invoice to find.

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