Expert: Master Bob - 1/27/2006

Question
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Followup To
Question -
Bob, I have a bedroom with 3 outlets. 1 works only when I turn on the light switch. It's a single pole switch. Reading up, I found this is or was code when you have no ceiling light. I want to install 3 recessed lights in parallel in the ceiling and use the same light switch. Is this possible? thanks, Tim
This may have been answered before, but I can't find it.
Answer -
Hi Tim,


 Just now getting the chance to log-on....we've been pretty straight out here electrically this month...

 Bsased on your description...yes - your goal is possible....but just what it will take it to accomplish it is unknown. Here is the typical scenario:

 You'll need to pull a new run of 12/2 with ground from your existing switch box to the first recessed can (and jump to the next two from there..).

 If you choose to still have both the receptacle switched AND the recessed cans on this switch...of course you'll need to leave the wiring intact from the switch to the receptacle....and add a new run of 12/2 to the switch box up to the cans (one of the wires that are on the switch right now will need to come off.....one of the switch wires is the power wire - the other is the switched leg over to the receptacle - the new run will need it's black wire to wirenut on to the wire that is going to the receptacle with a short jumper back to the switch and it's white wire to wirenut on with the other whites...as well as the grounds all being under one wirenut. If you have a tester....you can verify which wire is the power wire by testing from the screw terminal to ground with the switch off..you'll want to connect the new black to the one that is NOT hot). The trick is getting the wire(s) from point A to point B.....and without being able to see how this bedroom wiring is laid out..and how difficult it will be to get the wire from the switch box to the ceiling....I can't suggest the best method. If it's on a top floor and you have attic access...you may need to go from the attic down to the switch box. There may be other alternative routes...if you'll follow up with the way the walls are built and what access you have...I may be able to suggest other routes.

 Always be sure to make all connections with the breaker confirmed off for this circuit.

 Hope this helps...please follow-up with the requested wall and ceiling acess data....and I'll do what I can to help out.

Best Wishes,


Bob Osgood
Master Electrician


RKO ELECTRIC

www.rkoelectric.com

Bob,

Before you sent your answer, I tried something I had found in one of my Electrical books. It had a diagram of a single pole switch in the middle of a circuit. It showed the black wire coming from the wall outlet, or power source, connecting to one of the screws on the switch and the black wire coming from the new lights (I ran all 3 lights in parallel to a junction box, so I had 1 cable running to the wall switch) on the other screw, with both whites on a wirenut and the grounds on a wirenut. When I did this, everything worked like it did before - the one outlet turned on and off with the switch and the other 2 outlets worked fine, but the lights never came on. So, I think your solution will work, when I try it. The other thought I had was this - could I run a new cable from the switch to a new breaker in my panel, and then just disconnect the old cable running from the switch to the outlet and make all 3 outlets hot all the time? Would the outlets all be the same wiring scheme of black on brass screws and whites on silvers?  

Answer
Hi Tim,


 You can either wire it as I suggested above....or - IF you choose to do away with the switched outlet....as you suggested with a new run from the panel (we prefer to have lighting on a different circuit then the receptacle outlets in a room...then if you should trip a breaker - at least you'll still have lights in that area). If you no longer intend to use the wiring in the switch that went to the switched receptacle outlet....be sure to cap off the ends with a wirenut. Depending on how they wired the switched receptacle....you may need to replace it with a new one...IF they cut the brass strip between the 2 hot brass screws (commonly done on some switched receptacles so that one half is hot all the time and one half is switched). There may be hot power already in the box with the switched receptacle ...so simply replacing it with a new un-cut receptacle will power both halves.Yes.....all the receptacles will then have the same wiring...hot black on brass, white neutral on silver screws....all grounds wire-nutted together with a short jumper to the receptacles green grounding screw (and box - if metal) Be sure all breakers are off for this area before doing any of the work.

Hope this helps....

Best Wishes,

Bob