AboutMaster Bob Expertise Master Electrician / Owner RKO Electric (USA Only) - can answer most of the typical residential, commercial and industrial electrical questions regarding new installations, wiring additions, lighting, switches and receptacle outlets and electrical upgrades of any nature.I will make every effort to respond to your questions as soon as possible at the end of the work day...very busy electrical company - your patience is appreciated. Stop by and see us at: www.rkoelectric.com
Experience Licensed Master Electrician with over 32 years licensed experience - updated with the latest NEC Codes every 3 years. Over see the daily electrical operations of two electrical companies. Also serve as a judge (for Electrical Contracting Products Magazine) to help select which new products are fit and safe for electricians and the electrical market.
Question Bob, I have a bedroom with 3 outlets. 1 works only when I turn on the light switch. It's a single pole switch. Reading up, I found this is or was code when you have no ceiling light. I want to install 3 recessed lights in parallel in the ceiling and use the same light switch. Is this possible? thanks, Tim
This may have been answered before, but I can't find it.
Answer Hi Tim,
Just now getting the chance to log-on....we've been pretty straight out here electrically this month...
Bsased on your description...yes - your goal is possible....but just what it will take it to accomplish it is unknown. Here is the typical scenario:
You'll need to pull a new run of 12/2 with ground from your existing switch box to the first recessed can (and jump to the next two from there..).
If you choose to still have both the receptacle switched AND the recessed cans on this switch...of course you'll need to leave the wiring intact from the switch to the receptacle....and add a new run of 12/2 to the switch box up to the cans (one of the wires that are on the switch right now will need to come off.....one of the switch wires is the power wire - the other is the switched leg over to the receptacle - the new run will need it's black wire to wirenut on to the wire that is going to the receptacle with a short jumper back to the switch and it's white wire to wirenut on with the other whites...as well as the grounds all being under one wirenut. If you have a tester....you can verify which wire is the power wire by testing from the screw terminal to ground with the switch off..you'll want to connect the new black to the one that is NOT hot). The trick is getting the wire(s) from point A to point B.....and without being able to see how this bedroom wiring is laid out..and how difficult it will be to get the wire from the switch box to the ceiling....I can't suggest the best method. If it's on a top floor and you have attic access...you may need to go from the attic down to the switch box. There may be other alternative routes...if you'll follow up with the way the walls are built and what access you have...I may be able to suggest other routes.
Always be sure to make all connections with the breaker confirmed off for this circuit.
Hope this helps...please follow-up with the requested wall and ceiling acess data....and I'll do what I can to help out.
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