I can answer questions on graphite fly rod building and bamboo rod restoration and making. I can guide people to restorers . I can guide people to rod building components on the internet as well as catalog. I can help them identify and value their bamboo fly rods with a picture .
If you are asking for the id of an old rod
please give a complete description
,
, send pictures especially labels or logos to me macsrods@yahoo.com and a complete including as much the following as you can:
Is it? fly or casting rod ? Reel seat is below or above the cork handle ?
Check metal for id and patents ? What is it made of; bamboo ( flat sided) fiberglass or graphite ( round)? Weight in oz? What is the diameter of the rod above the cork? Where was it purchased ? What type of metal nickel-silver, tin, or chrome platted brass? A complete description of any logos or labels. Length of rod per section and number of sections. Total rod length.
Please read the following if the rod has either of the following two labels
Montague or H-I (Horrocks-Ibbotson).
They are looked down upon by the collecting community and often they are justified. They were mass produced , rather heavy and very slow. They are not going to resale for very much.
Two books are available at larger libraries to get history and or value: Antique & Collectable Fishing Rods: Identification & Value Guide Homel, Dan. 1997 Bamboo Rod Restoration Handbook -Michael Sinclair
Commission Sales
Because of my knowledge I can help you sell and get a good price for your vintage bamboo fly rod. email
email Mac
Experience I have been restoring bamboo fly rods for 15 years and making graphite for 17 .
Publications website = www.macsrods.com
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Question Rich, I own a 1968 Orvis 4 wht, 8', 2 piece bamboo rod. It was grandads. I inherited it. It has been rewound and refinished. I am not sure of value, it doesn't matter much as it will never be sold. I am fairly certain it is warped though. The end piece appears warped when I role it in my fingers and eye it against light. The Ferrules do not automatically "drop" when rolled and will hang "sideways". When I mate up the two pieces, and role the rod, it takes off at an angle at the joint. Not awful, but noticable. What might it cost to reset the joint and "steam out" the warp. Not sure of the methods here, only guessing.
I am thinking of buying a graphite rod as the cost to repair this one may be too much and the action is very "whippy" to me. I must be overloading the rod, but I snap off flys a fair amount and make equally scary snaping sounds. I am no expert and may have too rough a hand from years with a heavy baitcaster in my hands. I want to go towards the light and recieve salvation for my sins, and am wondering if a graphite rod would make the transition any easier. If so what action rod? I am thinking of a 5 wht, 9' rod, but not sure. Any and all advice greatly appreciated. thanks Dave
Answer Dave
The value of the Orvis is difficult to say. I don't give estimates unless I see the rod. I am in Denver. There are people who like Orvis because the put the varnish on the inside of the rod, making them heavier - Yours may not be one of those models but it is the right date to be so.
Weigh the rod. If it is 8 oz or better I recommend graphite while you learn to fly cast. Most of them are fast action and that is easier to learn with.
When I teach others to cast even without bamboo . whipping or snapping off flies says you are going too fast and not letting the line load. You are moving forward or backwards before the line has a chance to straighten out. Bamboo rods are even slower.
I repair rods - yes steam would work or any heat source - I use a heat gun but a hair dryer can work too. I would want to exam the ferrules to make sure them aren't broken or worn - I replace them at cost. If you don't need new varnish or wraps I charge $40 plus shipping of $10.
email me at macsrods@yahoo.com