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About Chris
Expertise
20+ years flooring installation ...carpet,wood,tile and vinyl. Residential and commercial. I do not sell the products , just install what ever the shop / customer has purchased. I actually love seeing the finished project completed and it gives me great satisfaction to help others acheive that goal. If I don't know the answer I will say so, and then I will recommend another expert for you. I may even research the subject and answer to the best of my ability ...including links to my sources. I wish you all success Chris

Experience
20 years as an independant contractor

Education/Credentials
H.S. diploma A.S. agriculture Mt San Antonio JR. College

Past/Present Clients
Gene Bonas and Kevin Churnock Inc. Sheward&Son&Sons Century 21 Forte Const. Famous Footwear BOSE Corporation Homebodies General Contractor Perry Floors, Tri Cord Flooring T.J.'S Supplies

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Style > Interior Decorating > Flooring and Carpeting > Wood Flooring Installation

Flooring and Carpeting - Wood Flooring Installation


Expert: Chris - 6/28/2009

Question
QUESTION: Chris, I am installing a Brazilian Cherry 3/4" prefinished wood floor and up until now it has gone fairly smoothly. I am nailing the planks down, but now I am in the kitchen and am stuck trying to figure out how I am going to attach the planks that are running parallel with the kitchen cabinets because of the over hang of the cabinets. Once I get within a couple of rows of these cabinets I can't get the nailer (or even a trim nailer) in a position to nail the planks through the tongues. The only thing I can come up with is to face nail the planks and fill with the holes with wood putty, and while I am not as opposed to that under the over hang I am not too keen on the idea of having to face nail 2 or 3 rows out into the room. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Dan

ANSWER: Hello Dan,
I understand your concerns , especially with a pre finished wood product.

Glue down with Heavy Duty ..water clean up LIQUID NAILS..or a professional wood adhesive (Bostick) (Mapei)...expensive.
Use TITEBOND II on the tongues and grooves ... Shim the gap under the cabinet with scrap wood cut in triangles make various sizes ...you will notice that a perfect triangle may be to thin ...  (15 degree miter). Make the wood tight ... tape with painters tape ... wipe off excess glue with damp rag. Face nail with 18ga. pneumatic nailer if you must .... in areas that will show the least. ...

You can use a combination of all 3 methods or just 2 ...Liquid nails and Titebond II..weight the floor down over night to insure good adhesive transfer.

I have always hated face nailing too... but it is always done, and is the common method. Min Wax makes many matching putty's to fill the penetration as do other companies.

http://shop.bestwoodfloor.com/product.aspx?id=189

http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB.ASP?UserType=1&ProdSel=ProductIntroTB.asp

http://www.bostik-us.com/markets/flooring/hardwood-flooring/products/default.htm...

http://www.mapei.it/Referenze/Multimedia/Ultrabond980_TDS_EA.pdf.pdf

Let me know if I can help further...

Chris

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Chris,
Just a question to see if I am getting the triangle part of the answer correctly. Are the triangles you are referring to shims to force and hold the rows together? Or am I missing something?
Thanks again,
Dan

Answer
Dan,

Yes the triangular shaped shims are exactly that ...as you force them into the gap they bind and force the wood tight to the width of the room.Space about every 14-18"...or less if you prefer. no set riles here ...just get the boards tight so the seams are closed over night.

Usually cut from the butt end starting on a 15 degree miter cut, flip over and cut again. Continue until you have a dozen or more.

Make the small end at least 1/4" wide. Sometimes 3/8" and sometimes less. If necessary rip the board scrap first so the piece will work under the toe kick.Then proceed to miter the shims, usually 2" - 2 1/2"  tall work fine.

Chris

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