About Ron Unger Expertise Floor and wall preparation and layout for the installation of ceramic, porcelain and natural stone tiles. Tile repairs, waterproofing of shower seats, pans, walls, steamers and floors. Floating and setting shower pans, walls and floors. grouting, cleaning and sealing sanded, unsanded and epoxy grouts. General knowledge of tile products and the application of products.
Experience I've been in the ceramic tile trade for 21 years, the first 10 years as a tile finisher and the last 11 years as a journeyman tile layer. I've worked in the residential and commercial fields. I've served as Forman as well as layed tile on jobs such as; Car Dealerships, Grocery Stores, Movie Theaters, Hotels, Office Bldgs. ect... As well as; Multi Million Dollar Homes and Condominiums.
Education/Credentials I've attended a tile finishers course and a tile layers course. I am also trained in blueprint reading as well as OSHA certified.
Awards and Honors The company I work for won an award for their ceramic tile work done on the Mexican Consulate in Chicago from the "Tile Contractors Association of America", which I was the forman on.
Question Is there such a thing as groutless floor tile? If so, what are your recommendations, and what is the life expectancy of this product. We also wonder if this can be installed on top of existing linoleum, or if this would have to be removed before installation?
Answer Hi Rick,
I guess you can butt any tile together and call it groutless tile. If you butt tiles together you will still have a dirt collector.
The main reason for grout joint are, not two tiles are made perfectly square or exactly the same size. Some tile are pretty good for size and square and can have a tighter grout joint than others. If you butt tiles together and then grout them, it will end up popping out because there isn't enough of a joint to hold the grout.
As a rule of thumb, grout joints from 1/16" to 1/8" require unsanded grout anything bigger sanded grout must be used to avoid shrinking and cracking.
Although I have laid tile over linoleum and vinyl tile with good success, I really don't recommend it. That being said, there are some steps you should take to ensure a good bond.
First some sheet goods such as linoleum and sheet vinyl are only glued around the perimeter of the room if this is the case I would definitely remove it and install an underlayment such as 1/2" Cement board or 1/2" CDX plywood. If the floor has a shine to it I would take a palm sander and rough it up, a belt sander will burn and melt it. Also if you have any cracks in the linoleum that's a good sign that the underlayment or subfloor has movement, Secure them with utility screws. They do make thinsets that can be used over vinyl.
I use Mapei brand Kerabond thinset and Keralastic latex additive but there are other brands, make sure to read the instructions. http://www.mapei.us/ Definitely find one that has the separate latex additive, do not add water.
I hope this answer is of some help to you please feel free to write back with any other questions you may have.
Thank You,
Ron
