Experience I have been in the field 25 years, first as a specifier, then retailer and currently manufacturer representative on contract with 8 manufacturers, independent inspector and conduct moisture testing. Founding board member of the CO Chapter, US Green Building Council
Organizations WFCA (World Floor Covering Association), NTCA (National Tile Council America) SCRT (Society of Cleaning & Restoration Technician), ASTM F60, (Environment) and F06 (Resilient Floor)
Publications Colorado Real Estate Journal, Smart Buildings
Education/Credentials MBA, CTC (Certified Tile Consultant), RRT (Carpet Repair & Reinstallation), CCT (Carpet Cleaning Technician, ISSI (Substrate Inspection) and completed coursework for Independent Ceramic Tile Inspector, Hardwood/Laminate Inspector and Senior Carpet Inspector. Scheduled to complete Independent Resilient Inspector in April.
Awards and Honors Multiple Awards for Salesperson of Year and President's Club
Past/Present Clients Clients include Fortune Co's to mom and pop
Question my bathroom floor has a 3-inch difference,wall-to-wall, with peaks and valleys in-between. 60 sq. ft. I've been using self-levelling compound from Home Depot to raise it to level (I'm on bag #5 and have lost quite a bit of sleep.# Last night it occurred to me I should have used plywood in tapered layers to raise the level first, saving money and making a better and ,ighter job of it. Too late. If the subfloor was sound, can I add 250 lbs, plus six quarts of water per bag (about 90 lbs?) - without compromising safety? The house was built in 1923, is in decent shape, but nothing is level, or square. The plywood sub-floor was laid over the original floorboards.
thanks,
Bob H.
Answer The added weight is an issue. I cannot answer this genericaly. I don't know the psi of your floor. But usually its 125#, older floors less. If things start to sag, add more joists under the floor. And yes, layers of plywood would have been lighter and a lot easier.
