Flooring and Carpeting/Flooring Tile
Chris, thanks for taking and responding to my question. We are wanting to lay tile in our laundry room and kitchen using the same tile pattern in each of the two rooms. The two rooms are joined by a three foot door/passage. I realize that for aesthetic purposes, you find the center of the room and build out from there to each wall, for the purpose of having even cuts that match on the walls. However, what do you do when the two rooms join together as described above? Do you find the center point of each room and then "mesh" the tiles that will be in the doorway with a probable seam (grout line) in the center of the door? Or do you find the center of the long distance that would run through the doorway/passage-way on the two opposing walls? Another thought that I did have is would you perhaps place a decorative tile in the passage way as a sort of threshold in order to seperate the two rooms? Again, thank your for your help and suggestion.
OK ...throw the book out for now.
When laying out tile the fills don't have to be exactly balanced, they can be of reasonable size and at least able to physically be cut on a tile saw without breaking apart. I can usually cut as small as 3/4" but always prefer at least 1-2" minimum fills.
For example, if I determine that an 8" fill lands under the kitchen sink toe kick and cabinets and a 6 " piece falls on the opposite wall I am fine with that....especially if the laundry works out nicely within the 1-2" fills or larger rule.
Considering that the 12 x 12 tile is yielding 8" and 6" fills in the kitchen I have ample room for adjustments to make the laundry area behave as I want. An inch sideways wont make a difference, Never start a full tile on the wall...the walls always run out and that will lead to troublesome gaps.
With that in mind I will focus on the kitchen making it the most important area to look aesthetically pleasing concerning the fills/cuts.
I will allow the laundry to just fall into place...at least checking my last piece to see what size it will be at the walls using a story stick. If they are good I will proceed, if they need an inch or so adjustment, so they are reasonable I will re examine the starting position outside , in the kitchen.
Often, after you have penciled out many starting points and finally decided which one to use, it helps to snap chalk lines and get a semi grid going to visualize the layout. After you are certain of the layout spray the chalk lines with hair spray and they will not disappear unless you make a deliberate effort to remove them. As you lay the tile of course they get covered but you can leave the slightest amount of red chalk showing ahead and behind to set the tile on grid.
I have tools that I screw into place on the chalk line, such as a metal framing stud so the starting line is true and straight for at least 8 feet in 2 directions. I make certain that the chalk lines are squared up using the 3,4,5 rule ...6,8,10...12,16,20 etc.
Always calculate a cut on the walls ...even if it's just 1/2" off the full tile...making it 11 1/2" ...that way when the walls run in and out you wont have an unsightly gap.
I prefer to lay the field on day 1 and then let dry over night and return to lay all the cuts the next day. Only the most difficult cuts next to a door jamb require that the full tile be loose as well.
Yes David....I will often employ a border or decorative saddle in the door to break patterns/ colors or tile styles. Works great if the kitchen is on a diagonal and the laundry is laid straight. Or vice versa
Get back to me for any further suggestions,