Flooring and Carpeting/installing prefinished hardwood upstairs
We are planning to buy prefinished oak hardwood for our upstairs rooms and hall. Because it is a big job, and expensive, and we are buying a common wood brand and color (Bruce hardwood in "Gunstock"#, we thought we would buy enough for two bedrooms for now, and do the rest later #next year perhaps#. Questions: Will it look bad that we have transition pieces from bedrooms to hallway vs having wood floor flow right into hall from bedrooms? Also, my husband is concerned about doing hall himself because there is a curve to the wall where the banister is, so he'll likely have to use a jigsaw to cut the wood for the curves and he said it might be too challenging. He is quite handy #he has build bookshelves and done lots of our home renovations, but do you think this is too difficult to cut properly for the average person? Thanks very much!
There were many projects that I was intimidated by, yet I succeeded despite my self doubt.
Halls are some of the toughest areas to lay out and get the wood to properly flow into multiple doorways. It is a matter of aesthetics and not a flaw if you have transitions in the door way. This also allows you to turn the bedrooms in another direction as well. That's an idea I always liked.
Round/ curved walls can be patterned out with some light weight 15 lb roofing felt.In a pinch I use the cardboard box that the wood comes in to make numerous arcs, simply cut with a utility knife...then fitted to the wood pieces on top then scribe a pencil line. Or free handed with a jig saw. The baseboard should cover minor gaps and is usually not an issue if you are 3/8" short. You need that gap anyway for expansion.
Rubber baseboard is available as an industry standard in many profiles as well. Ready to be painted and installed.
Let me see if I can find a video referring to SCRIBE CUTTING of any product.
Similar practices with finer detail