Flooring and Carpeting/Floating vs nail down engineered hardwood floor
I live in the Midwest US. We are considering changing the carpet in our first floor bedroom,living room and dining room. The house is 13 years old and has a full basement. The joists are the engineered I beam on 16 inch centers with 3/4 inch OSB tung and grove sub floor. We are considering installing an engineered hardwood floor. Would you recommend a floating floor or a nailed down installation. What are the downsides to a float inning click system? Does one type have better resale value? Would you recommend 1/2 inch bamboo?
If your specs are on the money you could safely do a nail down application. The only con I can see is installer error related. Tools nowadays can be rented easily, which wasn't the case back in the day.
The floating floors were designed for a niche market ...and you don't seem to fall in it. Pros and cons abound with the floating system.
DIY friendly, non glue down method(adhesive is costly),forgiving in floor prep, able to be applied over concrete.
Cons: the underlayment is the weak link. To thin and not enough sound deadening qualities. A brilliant step was made with thicker denser underlayments which you don't see on the box store shelf. I can link you to them if you decide to go with a floating floor.
Either way ENGINEERED wood is some of the best ...much better than a laminate floor !!
The link to 2 types of underlayment that I recommend if you can find it.
DURALAY TIMBERMATE EXCEL the most elusive 3.6 mm rubber with foil moisture barrier. Made in the UK. I had a distributor in Pomona Ca. I would drive an hour to get it and stock up.
They also produce SILENT FLOOR GOLD. Here is another spec sheet for comparison (notice the thickness)
SCI manufactures underlayments and a questioner on these forums in TX loved it
call them for specs/guides and a distributor near you.
1/2 bamboo ...did I say I hate bamboo...I just don't find it visually appealing. The pattern is too repetitive. Not the random beauty of wood. You can float that too...just glue all the tongues and grooves with TITEBOND II, available at the Home Depot. Block the length with scrap nailers to hold in place tightly. Shim the ends tight at the walls...to prevent any gaps in the butt end. Allow, each section of work to dry over night. Begin a new section the next day. Difficult areas to shim and block can be taped with blue painters tape to hold in place. Always wipe excess adhesive at the seams with a wet cloth. Refresh the rinse water in your bucket frequently to avoid a haze on the floor. Inevitably a haze will form and you can clean the floor with Pergo floor cleaner products or any numerous products that are made for wood/ laminate. A non scratching blue 3m pad works great as well to remove adhesive residue. Every grocery / hardware store has them in the cleaning section.
Let me Know if I can be of further help,