About Bryan Pence Expertise I can answer questions regarding most types of floor covering, substrates, cushions, and application questions. I have an extensive knowledge of the differences between solid and engineered harwood, and the pros and cons of both
Experience I have been a retail flooring store sales manager for 10 years. I have also installed almost every type of flooring sold today.
Organizations CCA Global, CarpetOne, ProSource, Big Bob's Flooring Outlets, Carpet and Rug Institute, Certified Flooring Installers, and regional retailers.
Question I live in Phoenix where the humidity levels are low for 10-11 months a year. I love the look of bamboo flooring but had a flooring guy at Home Depot tell me not to consider it here because it is not likely to last even 10 years (warping, peeling up, etc.). I want to get rid of the carpet on my stairs, second floor landing, hall, and loft area and possibly 2 bathrooms, although I can do tile in the bathrooms. The Home Depot guy said bamboo is particularly sensitive to dry climates and that their manufacturer won't warranty it here and their installers won't install it (so why do they carry it here?).
I saw that you refer to yourself as a "flooring geek" and hope that you can provide some insight and places to research this issue. I am looking for a permanent flooring solution, not a temporary fashion statement. Thank you for your help.
Answer In very dry climates you have to be careful, that's for sure. I have no idea why Depot does 1/2 of the stupid things they do, but I sure am glad they do...it helps my flooring business. HAHA
If you are looking for a hardwood solution, I think that number one you have to consider engineered over solid. Engineered floors are much more structurally stable than solid (the layers are grain alternating), more environmentally friendly (the core layer species grow much more rapidly than the wear layers), and more economical. If you choose an engineered floor that is manufactured in individual planks, once it is down you won't be able to tell the difference from solid.
As far as species go, let's look at the pro's and con's of several dry climate woods.
PINE- beautiful, and inexpensive, not very dense and will scratch easily.
HICKORY- beautiful though costly, and in extremely dry climates such as yours, may split at the face at install.
African Padauk and Brazilian Cherry- beautiful but very dark, is perfectly suited for dry climates, but will get even darker with exposure to sun.
Amendoim and Tigerwood- Good for dry climates, but not the best, rare and expensive.
White Oak- more dense than red oak, common, relatively inexpensive, not the best for extremely dry climates.
Australian Cypress- probably the best suited wood for extremely dry climates, although rare, expensive, and hard to find.
KEEP THIS IN MIND...when you select any wood floor, you need to add a humidifier to your home to regulate relative humidity. It usually needs to stay between 20-30%. I live in Cincinnati, and I have a geothermal HVAC system that extracts heat from the ground, which makes my house EXTREMELY dry as well. I have Hickory in the LR, and Beech in the DR, and if I don't monitor the humidity levels, the floors will and have split at the face. A humidifier is an expensive insurance policy compared to the high cost of having a custom floor installed. Spend the $200-300 extra, you'll be glad you did.
