AboutDave Coil Expertise I can help. I have installed wood, laminates, tile, marble, ceramics, vinyl, and painted applications. I have done some stone work, but that is seldom used anymore.
Experience My first work was in flooring and interior designs. My first job... every room of the house was a different color of walls and carpet. It can work...
Question Hello Dave / I have around 2000 sq. ft. of 3/4 prefinished oak and maple to put down, all over 3/4 t & g subfloor. Here's my questions to someone who has been there before.......
15 pound felt of rosen paper?
tips for areas where I would like to put the boards parallel with the floor joists?
15 gauge staples, 2" long, or a traditional floor nail? (I was told the staples hold better, from a guy who has torn out floors)
Pneumatic gun vs. manual?
I'm leaning towards a Canadian company for the flooring, which is Huron Hardwood. Ever heard of them? I'm told the best flooring comes out of Canada, eh? Their floor has 10 coats of oxide clearcoat, not including the initial sealer. My concern is for high traffic areas (kitchen), but maybe a floor sander is in my distant future as well?
Thanks / Mark
Answer All good questions. Not in order:
I only do manual nailing...you can judge the nail and feel the hit. Mutilple taps also tend to vibrate the boards closer together as they are nailed. Rosen/kraft paper is prefered... less thickness to create give. As for location or source... it is warranted wherever it comes from. I am getting cherry from Brazil out of NY. I cant vouch for the oxide coatings....I have not seen a durable coat from anything poly. I am going with unfinished wood and Shellac the heck out of it. Good for 50 yrs or more. Dog toenails are murder on that oxide finish. Clear Lacquor is another great finish.... you can recoat as needed. Think about GYM floors...resurfaced every other year..poly.
