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Ford Repair/94 E250 5.8 No Spark


Last codes with koeo 111, 113, 118, 211...have replaced icm (remote mounted), ign. coil, pick-up in the distributor. I have had the alternator checked out by a rebuilder. Good battery. The motor when cool will start and run well untill it warms up, then stalls. This process takes 15-30 minutes (estimate) to the point where it stalls. Looses spark via cheap spark tester on plug wire. Seems silly now that I think of it, but I have'nt checked on the coil wire. I have tried testing with a led 12v tester, ohm meter, every place the Haines book said to test. The volt light seems to be barely lit when key is on, dont notice it when engine is running. I cant figure out what im missing, unless it's something big like the pcm, but then if it was, it would'nt be shooting out codes...obviously not a mechanic and this seems to be over my head. Any insight you have will be much appreiated. Thank You.

Let's see what we can do for you. Code 113 relates to the intake air temp sensor, the PCM is seeing -40F; code 118 is the same reading on the engine coolant sensor. -40F COULD cause some issues, but not a no spark that I am aware of. Typically with those kind of readings the engine might flood and not start.

Code 211 is the profile ignition pickup, the part inside the distributor, should be a white body that fits over the distributor shaft. This part is similar in function to the ignition points used previous to electronics. Without knowing where you bought the parts, or what kind, I'll just say I prefer Motorcraft for this job. Too many cheap knockoff parts that don't work out of the box, or fail prematurely.

A very simple test of this part: With a 12 volt test light (not an led, not a voltmeter) turn the key on and check for power on one side of the coil ( usually a red wire), the light should be bright (battery voltasge). Next backprobe the other side of coil, (typically a green wire, sometimes 2 wires at the same terminal depending if there is a tach in the dash), crank the engine or have an assistant crank it with the key. This coil terminal the light will blink if the PIP is working. That tells you the primary side of the coil is being switched to charge the coil. If it does not blink, then you have a connection, wiring, or PIP problem. Again, cheap parts might bite you here.

If this signal does blink, I would try a coil, in fact I still keep a spare in my toolbox for quickly eliminating the coil as a problem. Carefully check the connector on the ignition module, those are known to grow green corrosion that can cause problems, or the connector pins spread and don't make good contact. A code 211 generally points to the PIP, but a circuit in the ICM could also cause this.

The fact that it starts and will run, but heat effects it, makes me think coil or ICM. For the other codes, 113, 118, check all the grounds, especially at the battery and fender. Check the connectors to those sensors, make sure nothing is shorted as far as you can tell. We did have some issues with those sensors coming apart inside.

Ah, one other idea on the testing coil with test light- you might probe the coil both hot and cold, see if you lose that signal when it gets warm. Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.  

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I am a retired Ford master tech specializing in electrical, climate control, emissions, driveability, chassis, brakes, and any light repairs. Cannot answer transmission, parts, or price questions, these are not areas of my expertise.


39 years of auto repair, diagnosis, and emissions testing, in service staions, independent garages, and 20 years with Ford dealers.

National Street Rod Association (NSRA)
International Automotive Technicians Network (IATN)
IAMAW (retired)

Riverside City College Automotive technology program
Ford Master Tech Certified Engine and Chassis Master (Over 500 hours)
ASE Certified in 7 categories
6 years training in Union 76 Pro-tech program

Awards and Honors
4-time Technician of the Year at Almaden Lincoln Mercury
Ford Master Tech
Union 76 Pro-tech Master tech

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