AboutEd Eckley Expertise I will be happy to answer any questions regarding foundation problems of any type. Questions pertaining to construction methods, Problematic soils, Settling & Movement, Frame torsion & racking, Preventative measures, Repair methods of all types.
Experience Over 18 years in the industry. A.S.M.E. Certified,(American Society of Mechanical Engineering). Hydraulics Design Expert. 18 years of hands on soil manipulation. Over 500 homes repaired, and over 20 commercial buildings repaired. Extensive soil knowledge. Familiar with most types of repair methods and the expected results of each.
Publications Ezine.com Article Title: Foundation Problems Do's & Don'ts
custombuildingsupport.com: Foundation Repair Methods
Education/Credentials High School Graduate 1976
Trade School Graduate 1976
College Graduate 1978
Awards and Honors Certificates of achievment: Excel Industries
Letters of appreciation: City of Golden
Awards & Plaques: Jacobsen Turf Division
Question I have a load bearing beam in my basement that has bug damage. I am told the damage is more than half way through the beam so sister boards cannot be used. I was told the entire beam would need to be replaced. The damaged section is about 2 feet long, the beam is about 27 feet long. Could there be any other solution? Also, in order to get the new 27 foot beam into the basement a hole would have to be cut into the side of the house. Again, could there be any other alternatives?
Thanks
Answer Hello Tricia
There is a simpler and more cost effective way to repair the bad section of beam. You mentioned the damaged area being approx 27" long. You could have a special steel saddle made to fit around the damaged area. It would need to be approx 48" long and the base plate should be 1/4" thick with the side plates 11 gauge, (1/8" thick).
It is difficult to explain in writing, but picture a steel channel that slips over the beam, with a 1/4" thick floor. The side plates would need to be drilled for 1/2" through bolts to go all the way through the steel on the opposing side. The bolts would be tightened and the beam would be clamped and the damaged area, (in the middle), would be supported by the 1/4" thick bottom plate.
If there is an existing sag where the damage is, then there may be a need for a support post directly beneath the saddle.
You could have the steel saddle manufactured by any good reputable welding shop. And you should be able to find a competent contractor to install the saddle very quickly.
This method should be much stronger than the original wood, and it will definitely save you a small fortune.
I wish you the best!
Respectfully Ed Eckley
