AboutTerry Casey Expertise Most experienced for Paris, Loire Valley, Provence, Dordogne, Alsace, Burgundy, Normandy and Reims/Champagne Country. Terry likes helping travelers get trip "flow and pacing" right so your adventure is neither . . . a bore, NOR a blur! Make sure your timing works, fitting your interests, tastes, personal experiences and needs. Terry has planned and done great trips to the Baltics, Russia, Belgium, Germany, Spain, Ireland, England, Austria, Italy, Czech Republic, Hungary, Greece, Turkey and Switzerland, plus South America and Cuba. Did wonderful April, 2007, week in Paris, summer 2008 southern England trip, etc. Has visited twenty different countries in Europe.
Experience There is much post 9-11-2001 worry about travel to Europe, but all reports and experiences say things are fine, with proper care and planning. From wide travels in many parts of Europe in 2005- 2008, my personal experiences are that things are good there and reasonably behaving Americans are treated well. See, enjoy the world and experience its great diversity! I have visited 20 countries in Europe and know that there's lots there to see and do.
PROVIDE KEY BACKGROUND INFORMATION with QUESTION: To help me answer your questions better, please provide some info on your past France/Europe travel experiences, ages, general budget range, personal travel style/interests, number in your party, what you most want to enjoy and see, etc.
Question Hi Terry,We just won an silent auction for 6 nights at a B&B located in the
village of Floensac the Languedoc. My husband has never been to Paris. I
was thinking that it would be great to fly to Paris, spend 3-4 days there and
then relax in Languedoc. What is your opinion? What would you recommend
to see/do in that region. We love to bike..should we plan to get a car and
check out Provence which neither of us have been? Thanks for your help.
Answer Just wanted to check if you had received my response that had been sent a few days ago. Any added follow-up, questions or comment? Thanks. Terry Casey
Hi . . . Lauren!
Congratulations on your upcoming trip to France. You're in for a real treat in Paris, etc.
On the village of Floensac, I have not been to this specific town. It is near the main A9 highway about half-way between Beziers and Montpellier. For exploring the heart of Provence, it is not ideally or centrally located. You can still make things work, but it will take a little more commuting time to get to the best of Provence. Below are my notes on Provence, Paris, auto travel, train bookings, etc.
YES, getting a car would be key to reach Provence and nearby, get around, be time efficient, be able to enjoy the country areas, etc. The area where you will stay seems fairly flat, which is kind of good for biking, but not as interesting in its topography for the best visuals. If you haven't purchased your air tickets, you might consider flying into Paris, spend four days in Paris (your first day there will be limited due to jet lag, time to get through the airport and into the city), then do the TGV Express down to maybe Avignon, then get your car. Maybe you fly back out of an airport in southern France. Options to consider!
Tell me more about your ages, personal and travel interests, past Europe travel experience, etc. How much are you interested in history? Countryside vs. cities? Museums, food, wine, art, music, shopping, architecture, etc.? How much of it in a leisurely style versus fast-paced? Time of year when traveling? Where are you from in the United States? Then, with more info from you, I can make better, more specific suggestions on what best fits your needs and interests.
Does this start to help a little? What are your reactions and needs for added information? Be happy to provide additional info and answer other questions after learning more from you. Be sure to complete the evaluation section so that our "bosses" on this volunteer service know we are working hard to make inquiring minds as happy as possible. ENJOY! Merci Beaucoup!
Thanks. Terry Casey in Columbus, Ohio
KEY PARIS HIGHLIGHTS/FACTS/OVERVIEW:
FAST FACTS: Paris is 2.1 million people in the main heart of the city. There are 10.9 million in the metropolitan Paris area or 18% of the total for all of France.
The Metro has 124 miles of track with 368 stations.
36 million tourists visit Paris yearly, with 60% of them from abroad. Paris has two main airports, Orly and DeGaulle, handling over 70 million customers.
WHAT MAKES PARIS GREAT/UNIQUE: With style and sophistication, Paris is correctly proud of its cultural achievements over the centuries. This confidence is expressed in Parisian life, including its architecture from ancient structures to controversy over Hausmann's bold late 1800's master plan and more recent modern developments.
Paris has taken bold decisions, including the Lourve with is now well-accepted glass pyramid by I. M. Pei.
Although at the heart of Europe, Paris is very individualistic and intuitive. The city has attracted great writers artists and thinkers. Historically, it has been a city of unrest, rebellion and revolution (an idea they helped finance in America and that lead to the sharp-edged 1789 removal of the Royal family).
Paris has a special style and soul. It is a high-flying mix of architecture, fashion, history, idiosyncrasy, style, texture, color and atmosphere. Paris is romantic, distinctive!
MAJOR PARIS HIGHLIGHTS/OPTIONS:
(Some times might have been adjusted slightly since this was put together a couple of years ago; plus there can always be strikes, budget shortages, etc. that affect scheduled openings in France.)
1. Louvre (closed Tuesday, open 9-6, Monday and Wednesday until 9:45 p.m.) with Cafe Louvre on site for lunch or dinner (and break or rest), plus food court area with wide mix of different items. this museums’s encyclopedic coverage is divided into seven departments covering ancient times to middle of 19th century; Pyramid entrance designed by I. M. Pei, opened in 1989; very big and can spend four days there and still not see everything; Denon (south) Wing on first floor has many of the key European paintings; Richelieu (north) Wing opened in 1993 and has large, covered sculpture courtyard in its middle; Sully Wing (east) has mostly Egyptian and other antiquities. Over eight million visited the Louvre in 2006. It’s very popular!
PRIORITY
2. Notre Dame and Palais de Justice on island of Seine River at site of Paris' start; Notre Dame completed during the 1163-1345 period, tours 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.; famous southern Rose Windows, climb up 380 steps of the tower for the best views of the city; Sunday night 5:30 p.m. organ concerts; famous Rose stained glass windows; Sainte Chapelle near Palais de Justice is 700 years old with outstanding stained glass windows; La Conciergerie is prison where many, including Marie Antoinette were held prior to being guillotined, is well-light at night with its unique architecture, functioned as prison from 1391 to 1914. PRIORITY
3. Musee d'Orsay (door-say) (closed Monday, open 10-6, except Thursday 10 am-9:45 pm), covers 1848-1914 period, especially great for Impressionist art; former railway station and hotel; excellent cafe in museum (doing lunch in this great dining room is a nice way to break up the visit and re-charge); on Thursday night perfect for walk from museum west toward Assemblee Nationale and cross Seine River bridge towards Place de la Concorde seeing all of the building lighted and then looking back towards Eiffel Tower; Place de la Concorde was designed in 1775. PRIORITY
4. Eiffel Tower, (985' tall, 3rd floor at 305', built for 1889 Universal Exhibition).
5. Seine boat trip (board at Pont Neuf), great views of famous Paris sights, especially at night as major buildings are lighted.
6. Champs-Elysees and Arc de Triomphe, started 1806 to celebrate Napoleon's early victories, completed in 1836, 165' high.
7. Montmartre/Basilique du Sacre-Coeur (church started being built in 1875 on one of highest points in Paris, dedicated in 1910); dome is second highest point in Paris, took 35 years to build with public conscription, great views at dawn and dusk plus from dome area over city, area made famous by artist Toulouse Lautrec, cubism born there; do direct Metro here, nearest station is Anvers or Pigalle. With its narrow cobblestone streets, gardens, steep steps and view over the city, this area is the emblem of romantic Paris. This church was mainly dedicated in the memory of those thousands who died in the uprising of the Paris Commune of 1870-71.
8. Luxembourg Palais and Gardens, built in 17th century for Marie de Medici, now houses French Senate, sculptures and fountains adorn extensive gardens, food available in gardens, great place for picnics, across street from apartment.
9. Saint Germain Market, open 8 a.m.-1 p.m. and 4-7 p.m., open air, various food and meat items, near apartment; many galleries, cafes and antiques shops in area; rue de Buci street market.
10. St. Sulpice Church, second largest church in Paris, block from our apartment, famous for its organ and DeLacroix paintings, took 134 years to build, open 7:30 7:30.
11. Le Marais Area, NE of Hotel de Ville/City Hall, has Musee Picasso (structure built in 1659, opened in 1985 to settle his estate, open Wednesday-Monday 9:15 5:15) and Musee Carnavalet (built in 1540, two adjoining mansions with decorative arts from the various periods in Paris history), older area starting around metro St Paul station, has Jewish section in area with special foods and historic areas. It has the super great park and architecture of the Place des Vogue area. The Place des Vosges was the prototype for the residential squares of European cities that were to come. What was new about the Place Royale in 1612 was that the house fronts were all built to the same design, of red brick with strips of stone over vaulted arcades that stand on square pillars. Cardinal Richelieu had an equestrian bronze of Louis XIII placed in the center of this charming park. Nearby is Brasserie Bofinger, one of the oldest and classiest places to dine. It has a gorgeous domed stained-glass ceiling over the main dining room.
12. Musee Rodin, has nice scale in both the interior exhibit area as an old mansion, plus the gardens with the outdoor sculpture, at Varenne Metro stop next to Hotel des Invaldes, has third largest private garden in Paris, originally built in 1730, Rodin used as his studio from 1908 until his death in 1917, open Tuesday Sunday 10-5:45.
13. Palais-Royal, former home of Cardinal Richelieu who died there in 1642, old houses, restaurants, teas rooms and shops border the formal gardens on three sides, near Louvre.
14. Pompidou Center or Beaubourg Museum, opened in 1977, closed Tuesday; mostly post 1918 art work; duct-work and steel framing on outside.
15. Paris Opera House/ Opera Garnier, opened 1875; 2nd Empire style, see its grand staircase and foyer, 2200 seats, large stage area, current home of Paris Ballet. Wonderful place to do a tour. It was just recently re-done for many of the key reception rooms with all of the great gold trim, etc. Spectacular to see! A model for many auditoriums around the world, this fine piece of design was constructed in the time of Napoleon III as part of Haussmann's city development scheme. Charles Garnier submitted the winning design and construction lasted from 1860 to 1875. Enjoy the marble Grand Staircase, the red and gold auditorium, the ceiling by Chagall and an 8 ton crystal chandelier.
16. Musee de l'Orangerie de Tuileries, impressionism collection, including Monet's work; closed Tuesday, open 9:45-5:15 p.m. (www.musee-orangerie.fr). It has unveiled a fresh look, with its 19th- and 20th-century works relocated underground, and Claude Monet's famed Nymphéas displayed as the artist intended them to be: lit by sunlight, in large oval galleries that recall the shape of the garden ponds on his Giverny estate.
17. Musee Marmottan, open Tuesday-Sunday 10-5:30, excellent impressionist art, including Monet works.
18. Hotel les Invalides, Napoleon' s tomb, 643 foot dome, built in 1676 by Sun King for old soldiers, many disabled, open 10-5:45.
19. Ile Saint Louis, is one of the most charming little areas in all of Paris. So nice to stroll up its main street as you walk towards Notre Dame and other key highlights. Famed Berthillon ice cream: The only true Berthillon can be found at 31, rue St Louis-en-l'Ile, where it was born. This delicious ice cream has rich colors and equally intense flavors. It comes in myriad flavors, but the rum raisin, dark chocolate (chocolat noir) and mango (mangue) flavors are incredible. This is divine dessert territory. Lots of Boutique shopping and dining places line this street in the heart of Paris. Try Brasserie Ile St-Louis, 55 quai de Bourbon, 1er (tel. 01/43/54-02-59), that Frommers calls the last independent brasserie in Paris. They note: “Far from the polished restaurants that masquerade as true brasseries, this one has as its heart old Paris.”
VERSAILLES: By suburban subway/train (RER-C5 line, from St-Michel, every 15 minutes) or train (30 minutes) from Saint Lazare; started being built in 1660's for Sun King Louis XIV (during 1661 to 1715 period, involved 32,000 to 45,000 workers) in French classical architectural style; conceived as a world unto itself as seat of government, permanent residence of the royal family and the cream of nobility, was previously modest hunting lodge in swampy area; palace highlight is 236-foot long Hall of Mirrors where the treaty was signed ending WWI; a three-year restoration of this spectacular Hall of Mirrors was just completed in June 2007; through 2020, they are completing a $455 million project to upgrade Versailles with cleanings, new roofs, other restorations, etc.; this property has 700 rooms, 2,153 windows, 352 chimneys and 28 acres of roof; in the huge garden areas are Grand Canal, Grand Trianon, Petit Trianon and Hameau used by Marie Antoinette; town population of 100,000; possible bus tour or car drive options out to Versailles; open 9:45-5, park open sunrise to sunset; tour palace first and gardens later (closed Monday). From this website (www.chateauversailles.fr/en), you can get more detailed information.
PARIS METRO/SUBWAY: Great, great system! Probably best to buy packets of ten tickets, rather than a multi-day, three or five day pass. There are fourteen different subway lines, plus the four different suburban RER rail options. It is important to know which line or lines you want to use, IN ADVANCE, and the name of the end station for your direction so that you go down the right set of stairs to be on the correct side of the tracks. It's not as simple as New York City with uptown or downtown! But it offers totally great, fast, frequent service. Very clean and nice! Single tickets (1.60 Euros) may be purchased at the counters each time, but the better value is a carnet of 10 (11.40 Euros), which will also save you waiting in line. For all day use, for adults (there is a cheaper children’s daily pass), the pass cost in euros is for one day (8.80), two days (14.4), three days (19.6), or five days (28.3). Compared to London, the daily pass might not be the best value. It depends on your needs. WEBSITE for maps and other info/details: http://www.ratp.info/touristes/index.php?langue=en
PARIS MUSEUM PASS: Strongly suggest getting the Paris Museum Pass for access to 60 museums and monuments in Paris and the surrounding region. Multiple visits to the same museums are possible and there is no waiting in line. You get:
* Entry into more than 60 Paris museums and monuments inside and outside Paris, including Arc de Triomphe, Pantheon, The Louvre, Notre Dame, Musee d'Orsay, Musee National du Chateau de Versailles, Musee National Picasso, Pompidou Center, Musee Roding, Chateau de Rambouillet, Basilique Saint-Denis, Chateau de Chantilly, Fontainebleau, etc.
* Multiple visits to the same museums or monuments at no extra charge
* Validities: 2, 4 or 6 consecutive days
* No admission charge, no waiting in line
Paris Museum Pass, 2-Day Pass 32 Euro
Paris Museum Pass, 4-Day Pass 48 Euro
Paris Museum Pass, 6-Day Pass 64 Euro
You can get the Paris Museum Pass at the Paris Tourist Office, and in its reception offices in Paris train stations, and the Eiffel Tower or at over 60 museums and monuments concerned.
More info:
www.parismuseumpass.fr
GIVERNY is best known as Claude Monet's garden and home, sitting on the "right Bank" of the River Seine. The village lies 80km or 50 miles northwest of Paris on the border between the province of Normandy and the Île-de-France. Claude Monet noticed the village of Giverny while looking out the train window. He moved there, renting a house and in 1890, he saved enough money to buy the house and land. He created the spectacular gardens he wanted to paint. Some of his most famous paintings, such as his water lily and Japanese bridge paintings, were of his garden in Giverny. This pond and bridge are actually separated by a roadway between this scenic feature and the main house/gardens. There is an under the road connector linking these two parts of this wonderful site. Monet lived in Giverny from 1883 until his death in 1926. He is buried in the village cemetery. Monet's house and gardens were opened to public visit in 1980 It is open April 1-October 31, Tuesday through Sunday, closed on Monday. You reach Giverney by taking the train from to Vernon. You can get more info about this area and its options from www.giverny.org. As per www.raileurope.com, two of the best rail connections to Vernon (Giverney's nearby town) are from St Lazare station at 8:20 am or 12:20 pm arriving in 46 minutes. There are some other rail options, but they would involve changing trains at Mantes and this would take more time in getting to Vernon/Giverney.
South of Paris grand palaces and gardens:
FONTAINEBLEAU is one of the largest French royal chateaus. It is located 34.5 miles south of Paris. The palace is the work of many French monarchs, building on an early 16th century structure of Francis I. The building is arranged around a series of courtyards. The city of Fontainebleau has grown up around the remainder of the Forest of Fontainebleau, a former royal hunting park. Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte, began to transform Fontainebleau into a symbol of his grandeur, as an alternative to empty Versailles, with its Bourbon connotations. Napoleon hosted Pope Pius VII there in 1804, when he came to consecrate the emperor, and again in 1812–1814, when he was Napoleon's prisoner. With modifications of the château's structure, including the cobblestone entrance wide enough for his carriage, Napoleon helped make the château the place that visitors see today. At Fontainebleau Napoleon bade farewell to his Old Guard and went into exile in 1814. Fontainebleau was also the setting of the Second Empire court of his nephew Napoleon III.
Their website, but only in French:
www.musee-chateau-fontainebleau.fr
VAUX-LE-VICOMTE, a baroque French chateau located near Melun, 55 km southeast of Paris, was built from 1658 to 1661 for Nicolas Fouquet, Louis XIV’s finance minister.
This grand estate was the most influential work and most elaborate and grand house built in Europe in the mid-17th century. Architect Louis Le Vau and landscape architect André le Nôtre worked together on a large-scale project for the first time. Their collaboration marked the beginning of a new order: the magnificent manner that is associated with the "Louis XIV style" involving a system of collective work, which could be applied to the structure, its interiors and works of art and the creation of an entire landscape. The garden's use of a baroque axis that extends to infinity is an example of this style. The château was lavish, refined, and dazzling to behold, but these characteristics proved tragic to its owner. The King had Fouquet arrested shortly after the famous party on 17 August 1661, with Molière's play 'Les Fâcheux. The celebration had been too impressive and the finance minister's home too luxurious. The King seized Vaux Le Vicomte, had his minster jailed and had its team of artists design what would be a much larger . . . the palace and gardens of Versailles! For more info:
www.vaux-le-vicomte.com
For Paris and nearby bus/coach tours, look at:
www.pariscityrama.com/en
For private, personal tours, check with
parisphototours@aol.com
Or, her websites of
www.lindamathieu.com/paris
EXCELLENT PARIS WEBSITES:
www.paris.org
www.travel-in-paris.com
www.paris-touristoffice.com
EXCELLENT PARIS WEBSITES, including hotels, apartments:
www.paris.org
www.travel-in-paris.com
www.paris-touristoffice.com
www.parisbandb.com
www.chezvous.com
www.vrbo.com/vacation-rentals/europe
www.parislogue.com
For hotels, you can try:
www.tripadvisor.com
www.hotels.com
PROVENCE: WHY IT IS A GREAT PLACE? ITS WONDERFUL OPTIONS:
Why do people love Provence? It is a region having a love affair with the land, earth and environment. The landscape is lush and verdant. Open-air markets have baskets of fresh herbs, fruits, flowers, fabrics, etc. The colorful spirit of the Mediterranean fills the air. Provence is nature at its purest. The sky is a piercing shade of blue. Fields are abundant and the air is clear. The climate ensures that spring, summer and fall yield magnificent and varied harvests. Throughout France, Provence is known for the best of everything natural. People in the area take great pride in these natural traditions for what they grow and how it is prepared in each village and every kitchen.
LOCATION: Provence has at its southern edge the famed Cote d’Azur with its wonderful coastline along the Mediterranean Sea. Generally Provence is consider the area east of the Rhone River with the Alps being the eastern border. Provence enjoys a southern sun that shines 320 days yearly, giving the region blue skies and mild temperatures year round. It is most picturesque in the spring with its flowering trees and shrubs. Summer offers local markets full of fresh harvests. Mid July is when the lavender field are in full bloom, filling the country air with a soothing fragrance. The Mistral winds can bring icy temperatures on bright sunny days. Getting lost can be fun in Provence. You can stumble across a charming village, history abbey or great tree-lined roadway.
KEY PROVENCE LOCATIONS:
AVIGNON is "one of the great art cities of France". Its old part of town has the Papal Palace, seat of Popes 1309-1377, street musicians perform near palace; art museum in Place du Palais open Wednesday through Monday, population of 87,000, town is on Rhone River. Once the religious, political and financial capital, Avignon is today a cultural capital and plays host annually in July to the largest festival of live theatre in the world. It has some of the best example of Gothic architecture in Europe.
AIX-EN-PROVENCE (population of 125,000) with Cezanne's studio on the road to Entremont; university town founded 122 B.C. as first Roman settlement in Gaul, near thermal springs, dining at Gu et Fils. An elegant and beautiful town, the visitor will enjoy discovering its ‘thousand fountains’ as he or she roams through its labyrinth of narrow streets. Aix-en-Provence is also renowned worldwide for its unique classical music festival.
Car travel to such nearby areas as ARLES, highest priority area city with Roman ruins, including 20,000 seat arena where bull fights are held in the summer; founded 49 B.C. by Julius Caesar, population of 52,000, Van Gogh's former home. Tarascon has its 15th century castle. LES BAUX is a very neat medieval village with great views that has no major population now, but tourist flock to soak up its history and great views. You should dine right near there at L'Oustau de Beaumaniere for ONE OF THE BEST MEALS YOU CAN HAVE IN FRANCE (lunch is more affordable).
NIMES was settled 121 B.C. and has a population of 140,000. Around the time of Julius Caesar, Nimes was a bustling city on the strategic Via Domitia linking Rome to Iberia/Spain. Nimes's arena, temple and nearby aqueduct are among the best-preserved in all of the former empire. Cars are banished from the compact old city dotted with other ruins, enhancing the feel of yesteryear. The Maison Carre is an almost impossibly pristine Roman temple.
ST. REMY his its Roman ruins, a population of 9000 and is the setting of world-famous literature. Saint-Remy is one of the most representative of Provençal towns and allows the visitor to appreciate the true charm of this oft-celebrated region of the country. It comes as no surprise that Saint Remy, like Cannes or Saint Tropez, is a destination for many well-known personalities. This Gallo-Roman village is on the plains 20 km south of Avignon. Residents more recent than the Romans include Dr. Schweitzer, Dr. Nostradamus and Van Gogh. The picturesque, old village is protected by the circular 14th-century wall which is lined by its protective circle of buildings. Its dolphin fountain is located in the shaded square in front of a 16th century old convent. This is a busy, active village, with a good selection of restaurants and hotels for the traveller. Among the shops are a few with some regional pottery, including some beautiful sunflower plates influenced by Van Gogh. The road between St. Remy and the autoroute (at Cavaillon, 17 km to the east) is a scenic drive out of the past: the road is lined by plane trees .
PONT DU GARD (Roman aqueduct/bridge) to the west of Avignon is a must see; Saturday AM market at Uzes near Pont du Gard can be totally charming and wonderful.
Try good Provence website of:
www.provencebeyond.com
Try Avignon’s official tourism office:
www.avignon-et-provence.com
CAR RENTALS OPTIONS:
We have had excellent success with
www.autoeurope.com
Their phone toll-free is 1-888-223-5555 (North America only).
There are also rail-auto plan options through raileurope.com
Avis has lots and lots of location around France and Europe.
Don’t assume one price will be the THE PRICE, best price. Make an advanced booking at a good price, but keep check back as different specials will come up, especially in these fast-changing economic times.
RAIL SCHEDULES: You can go to this website http://www.raileurope.com/us/rail/point_to_point/triprequest.htm
or
www.raileurope.com
and check all of the various train options, timings and costs on rail travel within Europe through the "schedules" option on their web page. For some routings, such as Avignon to Barcelona or Nice to Rome, it will not yield results. You will be need to break it out into separate routings such as Nice to Genoa, then Genoa to Rome. Great, very useful site!
DINING: Assuming you're not looking for the high-end, pricy places, the great news is that most any place will be very good to great to excellent. It's hard to have a bad meal in France!! The secret is to do some asking where you are staying and/or of others you meet there for their local suggestions. Then apply the eyeball test! If it looks touristy and the people sitting there (or the staff) are bored and uninterested, then that place probably should be avoided. If it looks like there are locals there and/or they are enjoying it, then it will probably be very good. Or maybe even better!
Here's a good "balancing suggestion" for saving your dining budget. Grab your lunch at one of the many bakeries/boulangerie/patisserie shops. Most are very cute and wonderful. Great breads! Get a sandwich, pastry, drink. Maybe some cheese. Other nice fresh things. Maybe spend only $4-5-6 a person. Eat in a park area or bench in Paris or the country side. Like a little picnic! Saves money and time during a busy day. Allows a little more budget for dinner in the evening.
FINAL KEY POINT: Read up, in advance, with such books (maybe from your library) as Eyewitness France (great maps and pictures) . . . or the Michelin Green books . . . to help you target what you most want to see and enjoy to fit your needs and taste. Don't wait until you get there to decide what you want to do. And be flexible. There could be strikes, rain, etc. that will require you to be able to adjust quickly to take advantage of your best available options each day.
