AboutTerry Casey Expertise Most experienced for Paris, Loire Valley, Provence, Dordogne, Alsace, Burgundy, Normandy and Reims/Champagne Country. Terry likes helping travelers get trip "flow and pacing" right so your adventure is neither . . . a bore, NOR a blur! Make sure your timing works, fitting your interests, tastes, personal experiences and needs. Terry has planned and done great trips to the Baltics, Russia, Belgium, Germany, Spain, Ireland, England, Austria, Italy, Czech Republic, Hungary, Greece, Turkey and Switzerland, plus South America and Cuba. Did wonderful April, 2007, week in Paris, summer 2008 southern England trip, etc. Has visited twenty different countries in Europe.
Experience There is much post 9-11-2001 worry about travel to Europe, but all reports and experiences say things are fine, with proper care and planning. From wide travels in many parts of Europe in 2005- 2008, my personal experiences are that things are good there and reasonably behaving Americans are treated well. See, enjoy the world and experience its great diversity! I have visited 20 countries in Europe and know that there's lots there to see and do.
PROVIDE KEY BACKGROUND INFORMATION with QUESTION: To help me answer your questions better, please provide some info on your past France/Europe travel experiences, ages, general budget range, personal travel style/interests, number in your party, what you most want to enjoy and see, etc.
Question QUESTION: Hello,
Our family of 8 will be staying in a villa near Nice, France from Dec. 27-Jan. 10. What day trips would you suggest? We will have a car the second week but the first week we will rely on public transportaion. Thanks, Carlos
ANSWER: Hi . . . Carlos!
For day-trips from near Nice, my top two suggestions would be Provence and Eze. Below are some notes on these areas.
Clearly to do Provence, a car would be best, a must in fact! Eze might be reached by some public transportation options. St Paul and Grasse are also supposed to be very nice.
In large measure, it depends on what you want to see and do. Tell me more about your party, budget, ages, personal and travel interests, past Europe and France travel experience, etc. How much are you interested in history? Countryside vs. cities? Museums, food, wine, art, music, shopping, architecture, etc.? How much of it in a leisurely style versus fast-paced?
Below are a number of notes, ideas and suggestions. Plus web-mapping, train, etc. tips. Raill options to Monaco, Cannes, etc. are fairly easy and quick.
Does this start to help a little? What are your reactions and needs for added information? Be happy to provide additional info and answer other questions after learning more from you. Be sure to complete the evaluation section so that our "bosses" on this volunteer service know we are working hard to make inquiring minds as happy as possible. ENJOY! Merci Beaucoup!
Thanks. Terry Casey in Columbus, Ohio
PROVENCE: WHY IT IS A GREAT PLACE? ITS WONDERFUL OPTIONS:
Why do people love Provence? It is a region having a love affair with the land, earth and environment. The landscape is lush and verdant. Open-air markets have baskets of fresh herbs, fruits, flowers, fabrics, etc. The colorful spirit of the Mediterranean fills the air. Provence is nature at its purest. The sky is a piercing shade of blue. Fields are abundant and the air is clear. The climate ensures that spring, summer and fall yield magnificent and varied harvests. Throughout France, Provence is known for the best of everything natural. People in the area take great pride in these natural traditions for what they grow and how it is prepared in each village and every kitchen.
LOCATION: Provence has at its southern edge the famed Cote d’Azur with its wonderful coastline along the Mediterranean Sea. Generally Provence is consider the area east of the Rhone River with the Alps being the eastern border. Provence enjoys a southern sun that shines 320 days yearly, giving the region blue skies and mild temperatures year round. It is most picturesque in the spring with its flowering trees and shrubs. Summer offers local markets full of fresh harvests. Mid July is when the lavender field are in full bloom, filling the country air with a soothing fragrance. The Mistral winds can bring icy temperatures on bright sunny days. Getting lost can be fun in Provence. You can stumble across a charming village, history abbey or great tree-lined roadway.
KEY PROVENCE LOCATIONS:
AVIGNON is "one of the great art cities of France". Its old part of town has the Papal Palace, seat of Popes 1309-1377, street musicians perform near palace; art museum in Place du Palais open Wednesday through Monday, population of 87,000, town is on Rhone River. Once the religious, political and financial capital, Avignon is today a cultural capital and plays host annually in July to the largest festival of live theatre in the world. It has some of the best example of Gothic architecture in Europe.
AIX-EN-PROVENCE (population of 125,000) with Cezanne's studio on the road to Entremont; university town founded 122 B.C. as first Roman settlement in Gaul, near thermal springs, dining at Gu et Fils. An elegant and beautiful town, the visitor will enjoy discovering its ‘thousand fountains’ as he or she roams through its labyrinth of narrow streets. Aix-en-Provence is also renowned worldwide for its unique classical music festival.
Car travel to such nearby areas as ARLES, highest priority area city with Roman ruins, including 20,000 seat arena where bull fights are held in the summer; founded 49 B.C. by Julius Caesar, population of 52,000, Van Gogh's former home. Tarascon has its 15th century castle. LES BAUX is a very neat medieval village with great views that has no major population now, but tourist flock to soak up its history and great views. You should dine right near there at L'Oustau de Beaumaniere for ONE OF THE BEST MEALS YOU CAN HAVE IN FRANCE (lunch is more affordable).
NIMES was settled 121 B.C. and has a population of 140,000. Around the time of Julius Caesar, Nimes was a bustling city on the strategic Via Domitia linking Rome to Iberia/Spain. Nimes's arena, temple and nearby aqueduct are among the best-preserved in all of the former empire. Cars are banished from the compact old city dotted with other ruins, enhancing the feel of yesteryear. The Maison Carre is an almost impossibly pristine Roman temple.
ST. REMY his its Roman ruins, a population of 9000 and is the setting of world-famous literature. Saint-Remy is one of the most representative of Provençal towns and allows the visitor to appreciate the true charm of this oft-celebrated region of the country. It comes as no surprise that Saint Remy, like Cannes or Saint Tropez, is a destination for many well-known personalities. This Gallo-Roman village is on the plains 20 km south of Avignon. Residents more recent than the Romans include Dr. Schweitzer, Dr. Nostradamus and Van Gogh. The picturesque, old village is protected by the circular 14th-century wall which is lined by its protective circle of buildings. Its dolphin fountain is located in the shaded square in front of a 16th century old convent. This is a busy, active village, with a good selection of restaurants and hotels for the traveller. Among the shops are a few with some regional pottery, including some beautiful sunflower plates influenced by Van Gogh. The road between St. Remy and the autoroute (at Cavaillon, 17 km to the east) is a scenic drive out of the past: the road is lined by plane trees .
PONT DU GARD (Roman aqueduct/bridge) to the west of Avignon is a must see; Saturday AM market at Uzes near Pont du Gard can be totally charming and wonderful.
Try good Provence website of:
www.provencebeyond.com
Try Avignon’s official tourism office:
www.avignon-et-provence.com
COASTAL SUGGESTION: The old village of Eze, along the coast between Nice and Monaco, hangs up in the mountains above the water and crowds. It's wonderful to visit. Great, great views! Totally charming! Have lunch or dinner there at one of the two great eating places and feel like you're sitting on the edge of paradise! At 1,407 feet above the Mediterranean, Eze offers commanding views of cliffs, sea, sprawling estates and off-shore islands. The village's narrow streets or more really paths among the buildings lead to the Jardin Exotique It is a maze of paths flanked by mammoth flowering plants and spiky cactuses. For about $3, you can walk up to the best view on the French Riviera. On a clear day, you can see Corsica! It does not get much better than Eze.
CONGESTION, TRAFFIC WARNINGS: Be properly warned that Nice, Cannes, Monaco, etc. can and will be extremely crowded during their peak tourism periods. Lots and lots of people (both residents and visitors), too many cars, too few highways and limited land between the mountains and sea to hold all comfortably and easily. The movies have made these large cities seem attractive and appealing. Do not Cary Grant and Grace Kelly seem to be having fun there? So glamorous and exciting?! For movies, they make it seem so wonderful. If you are rich and in the “best, right” areas, it can seem and be wonderful. BUT, that congestion might be a turn-off. It depends on what are you expecting, seeking and willing to pay for to hang with the rich and avoid the mobs in these famed areas.
WEATHER/BEACHES FOR THIS AREA? It is NOT always hot and perfect beach weather during all months of the year in this region, especially in the November to April period. Also, the beaches are not all perfect, nice and sandy, gently sloped, etc., as some have experienced in Florida, the Carolinas, California, etc. The movie images paint a perfect picture! BUT, in many areas for some months, the beaches can be rocky and the weather mostly in the 50's and 60's. Sunny, probably. Windy, maybe. Not trying to be negative, just realistic! Timing in this area is important! Movie-like expectations must be matched with reality and your timing for visits in this area. Also some of the best beaches in a few peak areas are reserved for private hotel or resort use only. Not all of the best beaches are open to the general public.
CAR RENTALS OPTIONS:
We have had excellent success with
www.autoeurope.com
Their phone toll-free is 1-888-223-5555 (North America only).
There are also rail-auto plan options through raileurope.com
Avis has lots and lots of location around France and Europe.
Don’t assume one price will be the THE PRICE, best price. Make an advanced booking at a good price, but keep check back as different specials will come up, especially in these fast-changing economic times.
RAIL SCHEDULES: You can go to this website http://www.raileurope.com/us/rail/point_to_point/triprequest.htm
or
www.raileurope.com
and check all of the various train options, timings and costs on rail travel within Europe through the "schedules" option on their web page. For some routings, such as Avignon to Barcelona or Nice to Rome, it will not yield results. You will be need to break it out into separate routings such as Nice to Genoa, then Genoa to Rome. Great, very useful site!
COTE D'AZUR/NICE
The Cote d'Azur was "discovered" in the late 19th century as an illustrious winter wonderland for the privileged classes of British, Swiss and Russian societies. Climatically favored even in the winter, Nice was praised for its therapeutic benefits which drew foreigners searching for the dry, warm weather necessary to cure what was ailing them. Enchanted by this undiscovered paradise, the same families returned year after year until an affluent community of royalty, courtesans and artists flourished in the prosperous atmosphere of Belle Epoque Nice.
Today, Nice is a spectacular fusion of French and Italian culture, customs and cooking. Even the language, le Nicois or Nissart, spoken almost exclusively by the local population up until the beginning of the 20th century, is a hybrid of Italian—the official language of Nice from the 16th century until 1860, and French—the official language thereafter. This amalgam of cultures is also responsible for the wonderfully robust and flavorful Nicois cooking, based largely on olive oil, tomatoes, garlic, basil and other local produce.
Easily accessible to its international airport or by TGV Express train from Paris' Gare de Lyon in five and a half hours. With budget airlines such as Air Lib and Easy Jet, round trip fares between Paris and Nice can be had for competitive prices, sometimes less than a train ticket. Accommodations are plentiful but reservations are strongly recommended all year round so as not to waste time searching for vacancies. This is especially true in the summer months when millions of tourists flock to Nice's sun-baked shores.
Depending on the season, you are almost certain to witness a festival, parade or other spectacular event that transforms the city into a veritable extravaganza. From Carnival in February to the Jazz Festival in July, there is always an attraction to entertain locals and visitors alike.
It is suggest to start your day in Vieux Nice (Old Nice), with a cafe creme in the Cours Saleya and observe the vibrant Marché aux Fleurs (Flower Market). In addition to a colorful assortment of regional flora, this market specializes in locally grown fruits and vegetables and regional products such as honey, lavender, preserves and—of course—olive oil. Don't miss the vast assortment of exquisitely confected marzipan figures and rich candied fruit which make for excellent, inexpensive souvenirs. If you prefer a more structured overview of Old Nice, make your way to the Palais Lascari, a magnificent Baroque palace which is now a museum and the meeting point for several guided tours throughout Nice. For specific information, contact the palace directly.
Climb the sweeping stone stairs to the Chateau de Nice where you will be rewarded with another delicious treat, a breathtaking view of the Baie des Anges. For those that prefer to save their breath during their visit of this ancient site, there is an elevator at the foot of the cliff.
You can stroll along the port and choose among several fine seafood restaurants or venture back into the narrow streets of Old Nice for more indigenous cooking. For a lighter version of regional dishes in a refined setting, reserve at the Petite Maison on rue St. Francois de Paule—steps from City Hall, the newly renovated Opera House and Alziari, the indispensable address for fragrant olive oil, jars of tapenade or olive spread and big green bars of olive oil soap. Cross the street and sample the addictive chocolate covered almonds at Auer, an old fashioned confectionary dating back to 1820.
Vieux Nice/Baroque Treasures: Begin at the Prefecture and take rue Ste. Reparate to the Place Rosetti where Finocchio, an enticing gelateria, offers the sinful Italian ice cream. If you're feeling guilty after your sweet indulgence, confess next door at the Cathedral of Ste. Reparate. Named after the patron saint of Nice, this impressive church is an excellent example of the Baroque architecture that flourished in Nice during the 17th century.
If you prefer to venture out of Old Nice for dinner and if lunch plans didn't include a visit to the port, don't exclude this destination which makes for a particularly pleasant evening program. After admiring the stunning array of yachts in the marina, relax at the upscale L'Ane Rouge, a sophisticated seafood restaurant serving classical regional dishes.
DINING: Assuming you're not looking for the high-end, pricy places, the great news is that most any place will be very good to great to excellent. It's hard to have a bad meal in France!! The secret is to do some asking where you are staying and/or of others you meet there for their local suggestions. Then apply the eyeball test! If it looks touristy and the people sitting there (or the staff) are bored and uninterested, then that place probably should be avoided. If it looks like there are locals there and/or they are enjoying it, then it will probably be very good. Or maybe even better!
Here's a good "balancing suggestion" for saving your dining budget. Grab your lunch at one of the many bakeries/boulangerie/patisserie shops. Most are very cute and wonderful. Great breads! Get a sandwich, pastry, drink. Maybe some cheese. Other nice fresh things. Maybe spend only $4-5-6 a person. Eat in a park area or bench in Paris or the country side. Like a little picnic! Saves money and time during a busy day. Allows a little more budget for dinner in the evening.
FINAL KEY POINT: Read up, in advance, with such books (maybe from your library) as Eyewitness France (great maps and pictures) . . . or the Michelin Green books . . . to help you target what you most want to see and enjoy to fit your needs and taste. Don't wait until you get there to decide what you want to do. And be flexible. There could be strikes, rain, etc. that will require you to be able to adjust quickly to take advantage of your best available options each day.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hello,
Thanks for your response. Our family goes to Europe each year and we've been to Germany, Italy, France, Greece, and England. We are not museum people, but rather like to go to small villages and experience the culture. We also like to go to the main attractions in the bigger cities. Have you been snow sking in France? We plan to go to Grasse, Eze, Nice, Monaco,and possibly North west Italy on day trips. Do you have anymore ideas? Thanks, Carlos
ANSWER: Hi . . . again . . . Carlos!
Thanks for the added background. It sounds like you are well experienced for travel in France with all of your past Europe travels.
I have not been snow sking in France, Europe, etc. Sorry!
Given your interest in smaller villages, that makes Provence such a high priority, plus some of the smaller towns such as Eze, Grasse, etc.
You're talking about lots and lots trips from you base in or near Nice. It is good to do day-trips, but don't forget to allow time to enjoy your area near the water with the mountains there, etc. There is the key question of what and how do you want to 'ENJOY" and "EXPERIENCE" things in France, etc? Rush-rush and gulp it down like soda pop or beer . . . OR . . . sip and savor the moment like fine wine, doing people watching, sensing an enjoyment of life and the humanity, the architecture, history and charm? It's your choice.
Study carefully a visual book such as Eyewitness to better research and determine which towns offer most of what is of most interest to you and your family. Lots and lots of great options in this area.
What are your needs for added questions? Be sure to complete the evaluation section so that our "bosses" on this volunteer service know we are working hard to make inquiring minds as happy as possible. ENJOY! Merci Beaucoup!
Thanks. Terry Casey in Columbus, Ohio
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hello again,
We are arriving on Dec. 27 and departing on Jan. 10. We are thinking of renting a car on Jan. 4 for the rest of that week to drive on some day trips. My question is do you think from Dec. 27-Jan. 3 that we could take public transportation to keep us busy and once we do rent a car what day trips would you recommend? I know one day we want to go to Isola 2000 for snow sking. Is there public transportation to Eze? Thanks Carlos
Answer Hi . . . again . . . Carlos!
On your question of public transportation for part of your visit along the coast in late December and early January, the answer is yes, kind of, maybe.
There are public transit options to Eze and along that coastal area, but, you might or might not find them satisfactory for time efficiency, convenience, comfort, etc.
It's a matter of timing and trade-offs! I cannot answer for you personally on what will make you happy in that consideration of those options. Personally, I like more freedom and flexibility and movement. If you are active and adventuresome, having more access to a car might be worth it.
With a party of eight and the number of places you might want to visit, having that added flexibility could be worth considering. If you are going to stay in a nearby village, not central Nice, that is another key factor tipping the scale.
You can go either way. Just consider the time/cost/convenience factors fully.
What are your interests for added questions? Be sure to complete the evaluation section so that our "bosses" on this volunteer service know we are working hard to make inquiring minds as happy as possible. ENJOY! Merci Beaucoup!