AboutPatrick Robichaud Expertise I travel to Paris each year and I'm well acquainted with restaurants, shops, hotels and the general layout of the arrondissements. I frequently create itineraries for my friends, including what to pack, how to travel, etc. I also frequent many out of the way places that are not in a lot of tour books, but that should NOT be missed.
Experience I visit France each March and stay for two weeks, living in an apartment. I frequent most non-tourist restaurants, bars and socialize with a lot of locals. I have very honest opinions...because I love this city and wish to dispell the misinformation that is out there regarding Paris and its citizens
Publications Overland Park Sun Newspaper, Kansas City Star, The Pitch
Education/Credentials French degree. Currently work as Marketing manager in a Fortune 100 Telecommunications company
Question We'll be in Paris for 4 days end of August. Are many neighborhood restaurants and shops still closed for summer vacation? This is our second time in Paris so we don't plan on spending much time touring the sights. We are staying near the Arc de Triomph. Can you recommend some good and inexpensive neighborhood restaurants, wine bars, shops & food markets? Also appreciate suggestions on non-touristy places to visit. I like classical music and gardening, my husband likes arts and architecture. Thanks.
Answer Dear ET -
While a good many places may be closed, there is enough open to keep one occupied. There will most likely be more tourists than Parisians, but you will be able to get around the city easier (less traffic, etc.).
As for what is going on, I'm including the Paris Tourism web site, which lists the currently scheduled attractions. This might help you to determine what exactly fits your taste.
These restaurants are pretty much guaranteed to be open, but it's always best to call/fax ahead to be sure:
There are, however, some restaurants that will remain open during the month of August. Here is a list of some of them. It is always best to call or fax the restaurant before you show up, to be sure it is open and to make a reservation.
Au Pied de Cochon 1st arr.
Astier 11th arr.
L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon 5, rue de Montalembert, 7th arr.
Phone: 01-42-22-56-56
La Table de Joel Robuchon 16, av. Bugeaud, 16th arr. Phone: 01 56 28 16 16
Wadja 10 rue de Grande Chaumiere, 6th arr.
Tel: 01 46 33 02 02
Les Bouquinistes 6th arr. (This may be closed part of the month. It is best to call or email first).
Ze Kitchen Galerie 4, rue des Grands Augustins 6th arr.
Tel: 01 44 32 00 32
The Brasserie “Flo” and all its branches (Balzar, etc.) Tel: 01 46 33 02 02
Le Dome 108 Blvd du Montparnasse, 14th arr. is only closed on Sundays and Mondays in August
Aux Lyonnais 32 rue St. Marc, 2nd arr. Tel 01 42 96 65 04 is closed until August 22
Spoon, Food and Wine 14, rue Marignan, Paris, 8th arr. opens in mid-August
Mon Vieil Ami 69 rue Saint Louis en L’Ile, 4th arr. opens August 16
Atelier Maitre Albert 5th arr. is closed only the first two weeks of August
Allard 41 rue St. André des Arts, 6th arr. Tel: 01 43 26 48 23 is closed the first three weeks of August
I'm also including my list of favorite sites. I am going to call out a few here, since you mention architecture and music.
1. Pere LaChaise cemetery - really gorgeous architecture/sculpture. Supposedly the largest collection of 18th century outdoor sculpture anywhere. It's just beautiful and heartbreaking.
2. Food - Pierre Herme for Macarons, L'Etoile d'Or for Chocolate, Grande Epicerie for gourmet prepared foods (behind Au Bon Marche)
3. Music - St Chappelle offers classical concerts nightly. They are wonderful and cheap. Also, check out the Madeleine Church. They post concerts on the board on the gate. Acoustics are great.
4. Gardening - Parc de Bagatelle, a wonderful rose garden in a large park around a charming XVIIIth century mansion built for Marie-Antoinette (in the Northern part of the Bois de Boulogne)
Let me know if this helps. More than happy to provide additional suggestions.
Here's my list:
Museums and Attractions
Site Address Website
Jeu de Paume Museum 1 place du Concorde 8th http://www.jeudepaume.org/
Musee Carnavalet 23 Rue de Sevigne, 3rd http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr/ . This is the museum of the history of Paris. I love this museum .
Sainte Chappelle 4, boulevard du Palais, http://www.paris-paris-paris.com/paris_directory/monuments/sainte_chapelle_in_pa... . A MUST ! Simply the beautiful church in Europe. The entire main floor is stained glass.
Père LaChaise 16, rue du Repos http://www.pere-lachaise.com/ . Cemetery. Heartbreakingly beautiful. Largest collection of outdoor sculpture anywhere. Parisiens use this cemetery for strolling on nice days. Contrary to belief, Jim Morrison of the doors is NOT buried here. His headstone is…his body was moved to an undisclosed location. Lots of famous people buried here (Chopin, Rousseau, Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison of the Doors). Do NOT miss the monuments to those French citizens who perished in concentration camps during WWII
Deyrolle 46 Rue du Bac, 7th http://www.deyrolle.com/magazine/ . Taxidermy shop in operation since 1832. Great artwork and beautiful collection
The Catacombs of Paris 1, avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, 14th http://www.quovadimus.org/paris/cat/thumb.html. Can be kind of creepy, but fascinating….collection of bones from Paris cemeteries from the 17th and 18th century. Simply amazing.
Restaurants/Chocolate and other good things to eat
Site Address Website/Comments
La Tartine 24, rue de Rivoli, 4th Oldest wine bar in Paris – Great selections, fun!
Au Petit Fer a Cheval 30 rue Vieille du Temple, 4th
Great local hangout. People watching is superb.
Camille 24 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 4th Great blanquette de veau, really good soup (potage) and seared leeks.
Ma Bourgogne 19, place de Vosges, 4th One of the oldest cafes in Paris. Good steak au poivre and fun for breakfast
Chez Omar 47, rue de Bretagne, 3rd Couscous restaurant. Very fun and very very crowded. CHEAP!!!
La Fontaine Gourmand 11, rue Charlot Very small, very neighborhoodish place. 20 seats. Escargots with potatoes is amazing. Great place for duck confit salad
L’as du Falafel 34 Rue des Rosiers, 4th If you like falafel, this is the place. Best deal for lunch in Paris
A deux pas de trois 101 rue Vieille du Temple, 4th Very small with decent lunch
L’ambrosie 9, place de Vosges If you want to splurge, do it here. http://www.ambroisie-placedesvosges.com/
La Dome du Marais 53 bis, rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 4th One of my favorites. Completely old world French and VERY reasonable
Bofinger 7, rue de la Bastille, 11th Not my favorite place. I don’t like the service, but the interior is gorgeous. It’s in a lot of guidebooks, but the service is snotty and you’re usually put in a back room with other Americans
Café Charbon 109, rue Oberkampf Love this place. Great ambiance
Le Petit Chatelet 39, rue de Bucherie,5th Small, intimate. All meats cooked on fireplace in dining room. Great views of Notre Dame. http://secret-paris.blogspot.com/2007/12/le-petit-chatelet-fireplace-nice-food.h...
Goumard 9 Rue Duphot, 1st Good seafood…but expensive
L’Ardoise 28, rud du Mont-Thabor, 1st Get the crab tart and white asparagus!!
Willi’s Wine Bar 13, rue des Petit Champs Great place to meet people and have a drink. Amazingly good wine selection
Harry’s NY bar 5, rue Danou Best bloody mary in Paris. SANK ROO DER NEW (Their address written for English speakers…it’s on their matchbooks)
Le Rouge –Gorge 8, rue St. Paul, 4th Fun wine bar
La Petite Scierie 60, rue St Louis en l’ile I love this little neighborhood. The Foie gras boutique is a must stop every year for me. NY Times article highlighted this area http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/12/23/travel/23dayout.html
La Grande Epicerie 38 Rue de Sèvres http://www.lagrandeepicerie.fr/. Fantastic food market behind Au Bon Marche department store
L’etoile d’or 30, rue Fontaine, 9th A special trip here is worth it. Beautiful chocolate shop with a very “interesting” proprietress. Only shop in France authorized to sell Bernachon chocolates. Chocolates from all over France. Denise Acabo is a treat!
Pierre Herme 72, rue Bonaparte Pastry shop - The Macarons are amazing. Some flavors are patented. http://www.pierreherme.com/index.cgi?&cwsid=0417ph551FCE59ph0146820
Auberge de Clou 30 avenue Trudaine, 9th Great restaurant. Amazingly inventive and very good food
E. Dehillerin 18 et 20, rue Coquillière, 1st This is MECCA for cooks. All kinds of beautiful French cookware http://www.e-dehillerin.fr/en/index.php
Sans Sanz 49, rue de Faubourg St Antoine, 11th Jazz club. Great music and they serve food. Not too expensive
Balajo 9, rue de Lappe, 11th Jazz club. Older, less juvenile crowd
