Expert: Patrick Robichaud - 8/13/2009

Question
We'll be in Paris for 4 days end of August. Are many neighborhood restaurants and shops still  closed for summer vacation? This is our second time in Paris so we don't plan on spending much time touring the sights. We are staying near the Arc de Triomph.  Can you recommend some good and inexpensive neighborhood restaurants, wine bars, shops & food markets? Also appreciate suggestions on non-touristy places to visit. I like classical music and gardening, my husband likes arts and architecture. Thanks.

Answer
Dear ET -

While a good many places may be closed, there is enough open to keep one occupied. There will most likely be more tourists than Parisians, but you will be able to get around the city easier (less traffic, etc.).

As for what is going on, I'm including the Paris Tourism web site, which lists the currently scheduled attractions. This might help you to determine what exactly fits your taste.

http://en.parisinfo.com/

These restaurants are pretty much guaranteed to be open, but it's always best to call/fax ahead to be sure:

There are, however, some restaurants that will remain open during the month of August.  Here is a list of some of them.  It is always best to call or fax the restaurant before you show up, to be sure it is open and to make a reservation.

Au Pied de Cochon 1st arr.


Astier 11th arr.
L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon 5, rue de Montalembert, 7th arr.
Phone: 01-42-22-56-56


La Table de Joel Robuchon 16, av. Bugeaud, 16th arr. Phone: 01 56 28 16 16

Wadja 10 rue de Grande Chaumiere, 6th arr.
Tel: 01 46 33 02 02

Les Bouquinistes 6th arr.  (This may be closed part of the month.  It is best to call or email first).


Ze Kitchen Galerie  4, rue des Grands Augustins 6th arr.
Tel: 01 44 32 00 32

The Brasserie “Flo” and all its branches (Balzar, etc.) Tel: 01 46 33 02 02

Le Dome 108 Blvd du Montparnasse, 14th arr. is only closed on Sundays and Mondays in August

Jules Verne


Mansouria (Moroccan) 11 rue Faidherbe 11th arr.  Tel:  01 43 71 00 16

Aux Lyonnais 32 rue St. Marc, 2nd arr.  Tel 01 42 96 65 04 is closed until August 22


Spoon, Food and Wine 14, rue Marignan, Paris, 8th arr.  opens in mid-August
Mon Vieil Ami 69 rue Saint Louis en L’Ile, 4th arr. opens August 16

Atelier Maitre Albert 5th arr. is closed only the first two weeks of August


Allard 41 rue St. André des Arts, 6th arr. Tel: 01 43 26 48 23  is closed the first three weeks of August

I'm also including my list of favorite sites. I am going to call out a few here, since you mention architecture and music.

1. Pere LaChaise cemetery - really gorgeous architecture/sculpture. Supposedly the largest collection of 18th century outdoor sculpture anywhere. It's just beautiful and heartbreaking.
2. Food - Pierre Herme for Macarons, L'Etoile d'Or for Chocolate, Grande Epicerie for gourmet prepared foods (behind Au Bon Marche)
3. Music - St Chappelle offers classical concerts nightly. They are wonderful and cheap. Also, check out the Madeleine Church. They post concerts on the board on the gate. Acoustics are great.
4. Gardening - Parc de Bagatelle, a wonderful rose garden in a large park around a charming XVIIIth century mansion built for Marie-Antoinette (in the Northern part of the Bois de Boulogne)

Let me know if this helps. More than happy to provide additional suggestions.


Here's my list:

Museums and Attractions
Site    Address   Website
Jeu de Paume Museum   1 place du Concorde 8th   http://www.jeudepaume.org/

Centre Pompidou      http://www.centrepompidou.fr/Pompidou/Communication.nsf/0/C802434866E91C8CC1256D... . If you do nothing else, go to Georges at the top. Georges is the bar. It has a 360 degree view of Paris. It’s grat to go there at dusk and watch the lights come up over Paris while having a glass of wine.

Picasso Museum   5, rue de Thorigny, 3rd
  http://www.musee-picasso.fr/homes/home_id23982_u1l2.htm  While I’m not a huge Picasso fan, I really love this museum for the manner in which it is rendered.

Musee Carnavalet   23 Rue de Sevigne, 3rd   http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr/ . This is the museum of the history of Paris. I love this museum .

Sainte Chappelle   4, boulevard du Palais,   http://www.paris-paris-paris.com/paris_directory/monuments/sainte_chapelle_in_pa... .  A MUST ! Simply the beautiful church in Europe. The entire main floor is stained glass.
Père LaChaise   16, rue du Repos   http://www.pere-lachaise.com/ . Cemetery. Heartbreakingly beautiful. Largest collection of outdoor sculpture anywhere. Parisiens use this cemetery for strolling on nice days. Contrary to belief, Jim Morrison of the doors is NOT buried here. His headstone is…his body was moved to an undisclosed location. Lots of famous people buried here (Chopin, Rousseau, Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison of the Doors). Do NOT miss the monuments to those French citizens who perished in concentration camps during WWII
Deyrolle   46 Rue du Bac, 7th   http://www.deyrolle.com/magazine/ . Taxidermy shop in operation since 1832. Great artwork and beautiful collection

Catacombs      
Cognac-Jay Museum   8 rue Elzévir, 3rd   http://www.paris.fr/portail/Culture/Portal.lut?page_id=6466

Memorial de la shoah   17, rue Geoffroy-l'Asnier, 4th   http://www.memorialdelashoah.org/ . While not the happiest of subjects, an incredible exhibit.

L’orangerie   Jardin des Tuileries, 1st   http://www.musee-orangerie.fr/  

Church – St Eustache   2, rue du Jour, 1st    http://www.paris.org/Monuments/Eustache/ . Finally ! It’s open ! Look for the Keith Harring Tryptiche in the one of the smaller altars
Cluny Museum   6, place Paul Painlevé, 5th   http://www.paris.org/Musees/Cluny/info.html . Really beautiful medieval museum (Le Moyen Age). You must see the The Lady and the Unicorn Tapestries
The Madeline Church   Place de la Madeleine, 8th   http://www.paris.org/Monuments/Madeleine/info.html (check for free concerts here). Great place for impromptu classical concerts
Musee Maillol   61 rue des Grenelles, 7th   http://www.museemaillol.com/index2.html  Excellent collection. A contemporary of Renoir, Magritte, etc.

Village St Paul   Rue St Paul and rue de Rivoli   Terrific little shops and cafes  http://village-saint-paul.com/

The Catacombs of Paris   1, avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, 14th   http://www.quovadimus.org/paris/cat/thumb.html Can be kind of creepy, but fascinating….collection of bones from Paris cemeteries from the 17th and 18th century. Simply amazing.


Restaurants/Chocolate and other good things to eat
Site    Address   Website/Comments
La Tartine   24, rue de Rivoli, 4th   Oldest wine bar in Paris – Great selections, fun!

Au Petit Fer a Cheval   30 rue Vieille du Temple, 4th
  Great local hangout. People watching is superb.

La Sevigne   23 rue de Sevigne, 3rd   Corner rue Sevigny and rue Parc Royal. GREAT quiche.  
Les Philosophes   28  rue Vieille du Temple, 4th
  http://www.annuaire-parisien.com/5910,ef-r/philosophes.html Best creme brulee (pistachio) in the world

Camille   24 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 4th   Great blanquette de veau, really good soup (potage) and seared leeks.  
Ma Bourgogne   19, place de Vosges, 4th   One of the oldest cafes in Paris. Good steak au poivre and fun for breakfast
Chez  Omar   47, rue de Bretagne, 3rd   Couscous restaurant. Very fun and very very crowded. CHEAP!!!
La Fontaine Gourmand   11, rue Charlot   Very small, very neighborhoodish place. 20 seats. Escargots with potatoes is amazing. Great place for duck confit salad
L’as du Falafel   34 Rue des Rosiers, 4th   If you like falafel, this is the place. Best deal for lunch in Paris
A deux pas de trois   101 rue Vieille du Temple, 4th   Very small with decent lunch
L’ambrosie   9, place de Vosges   If you want to splurge, do it here. http://www.ambroisie-placedesvosges.com/

La Dome du Marais   53 bis, rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 4th   One of my favorites. Completely old world French and VERY reasonable
Bofinger   7, rue de la Bastille, 11th   Not my favorite place. I don’t like the service, but the interior is gorgeous. It’s in a lot of guidebooks, but the service is snotty and you’re usually put in a back room with other Americans
Café Charbon   109, rue Oberkampf   Love this place. Great ambiance
Le Petit Chatelet   39, rue de Bucherie,5th   Small, intimate. All meats cooked on fireplace in dining room. Great views of Notre Dame. http://secret-paris.blogspot.com/2007/12/le-petit-chatelet-fireplace-nice-food.h...

Les Bouquinistes   53, quai des Grands Augustins   http://www.lesbouquinistes.com/en/bouquinistes/bouquinistes.html .  Had an amazing seven course tasting menu for 75 euros (no wine). Service superb.
Divellec   107, rue de l'Université, 7th   This is the place if you want seafood. http://www.le-divellec.com/us/page1.html

Goumard   9 Rue Duphot, 1st   Good seafood…but expensive
L’Ardoise   28, rud du Mont-Thabor, 1st   Get the crab tart and white asparagus!!
Willi’s Wine Bar   13, rue des Petit Champs   Great place to meet people and have a drink. Amazingly good wine selection
Harry’s NY bar   5, rue Danou   Best bloody mary in Paris. SANK ROO DER NEW (Their address written for English speakers…it’s on their matchbooks)
Le Rouge –Gorge    8, rue St. Paul, 4th   Fun wine bar
La Petite Scierie   60, rue St Louis en l’ile   I love this little neighborhood. The Foie gras boutique is a must stop every year for me. NY Times article highlighted this area
http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/12/23/travel/23dayout.html
La Grande Epicerie   38 Rue de Sèvres   http://www.lagrandeepicerie.fr/  Fantastic food market behind Au Bon Marche department store

L’etoile d’or   30, rue Fontaine, 9th   A special trip here is worth it. Beautiful chocolate shop with a very “interesting” proprietress. Only shop in France authorized to sell Bernachon chocolates. Chocolates from all over France. Denise Acabo is a treat!
Pierre Herme   72, rue Bonaparte    Pastry shop - The Macarons are amazing. Some flavors are patented. http://www.pierreherme.com/index.cgi?&cwsid=0417ph551FCE59ph0146820

Auberge de Clou   30 avenue Trudaine, 9th   Great restaurant. Amazingly inventive and very good food
E. Dehillerin   18 et 20, rue Coquillière, 1st   This is MECCA for cooks. All kinds of beautiful French cookware http://www.e-dehillerin.fr/en/index.php

Pied au Couchon   6 rue Coquilliere, 1st    Best onion soup in Paris http://www.pieddecochon.com/

Sans Sanz   49, rue de Faubourg St Antoine, 11th   Jazz club. Great music and they serve food. Not too expensive
Balajo   9, rue de Lappe, 11th   Jazz club. Older, less juvenile crowd


Bon voyage,

Patrick