Expert: Terry Casey - 6/10/2004

Question
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Followup To
Question -

"Am I understanding correctly that you do not need to arrive there in Angouleme until on the 28th? From Angouleme, where do you head? Back home? From what airport do you fly?"

Yes, we are expected in Angouleme on the 28th which gives us about 6-7 days.  We are actually arriving in Marseilles from the US by a French freighter (an experiment!)  And the arrival date is approximate due to their schedule, by a day or so.  We anticipate a leisurely car journey from there.

We are flying on to Florence  for a wedding on October 1,  either from Bordeaux or from Clermont Ferrand, depending on the available schedules.  Is one or the other likely to be a better choice?,

"In late September you could maybe play it by ear doing gites and/or smaller B&Bs. In most cases, you will not need that many advance reservations."

Here's a question: my wife does not speak French, and we have never been a fan of B&B's in any case -- I don't much like to chat at breakfast!  Do you think we might be able to stay in a gite overnight, according to our schedule?  Normally as I recall they like you for a weekend at least.  Otherwise, we can probably find in a small hotel in some of the larger towns, no?

"There are other smaller castles, small town markets, wineries, etc. It depends upon what you like to do and enjoy. Just hanging out in and around Sarlat and doing nothing is fun and enjoyable!"

"Just hanging out" -- that exactly describes what we want to do!  A cup of coffee here,  a glass of wine there -- and we have lovely memories of being able to a well anywhere.  Your picnic lunch from the boulangerie is right up our alley.

Thank you so much, Terry, for your prompt, imaginative and very comprehensive response.  It has been a great help in planning this trip.

Best regards,

Greg


Answer
Hi . . . again . . . Greg!

Sorry was delayed in responding to your follow-up questions/comments.

YES, definitely fly to Florence from Bordeaux.  Closer airport and should have better schedule options.  Too bad you didn't have timing to drive to Florence.  So much to see there and enjoy in Italy, especially the nearby Tuscany region around Florence.

Don't worry about your wife not speaking French.  At B&B's you don't have to do lots of chatting at breakfast!   Most folks are flexibile and many speak some English. Gites should have some flexibility.  Most are traveling with one-night stays

Below is added info on Italy and Florence and Tuscany.

ENJOY!  Merci Beaucoup!

Thanks.  Terry Casey in Columbus, Ohio

A. KEY STRATEGIC ITALIAN TIPS

1. Relax and enjoy!  The Romans already controlled the world once and are not in that much of a hurry.  It will all work out.  Be patient!  That's their approach to life!

2. It's hard to have a bad meal in Italy!  If you like seafood, you'll find lots of great dishes there.  But most everything is wonderful.  Enjoy the food!

3. The driving in the cities can be a little crazy, but the Italian are great, defensive drivers . . . very alert and aggressive.  Outside of the cities, it's much easier and lots like driving right here in Ohio.

ITALY FAST FACTS: Total land size is slightly larger than Arizona, but the population is 58 million, nearly twice that of California.  The “boot” is 800 miles long by about 100 miles average width, May is one of the four best months for Italian travel (better weather and not over-crowded with tourists). Italy is the world's largest wine producer.

FLORENCE (pop. 384,000), best options/priorities of Il Duomo Cathedral (open 9 6 daily), if ambitious, climb to the top of the tower, great views, good way up; Palazzo Vecchio (their historic town hall) has great old rooms, climb higher for wonderful views of town; Uffizi Museum and Gallery (open 9-7, closed Monday) enjoy wine on their patio overlooking the Vecchio Plaza near the end of the museum visit; Accademia with Michelangelo's David (8:30-7); Ponte Vecchio bridge; Santa Croce Church, lots of the famous buried there; Pitti Palace (open 8:30-7, closed Monday).  Try to get advanced tickets for both the Uffizi and Accademia.  This could save much time waiting in line.

FLORENCE DINING
Suggested and Highly Recommended by Us from May of 1999:
Oliviero, very elegant setting, couple blocks from Vecchio Palace, wonderful food, family run, three stars by Access, 15-Gault, Via delle Termi, 51; phone: 055/28 76 43

Ristorante Nandina, near to Ponte Vecchio bridge, moderately priced, great meal, more informal than Oliviero; two stars by Access, nearby to one of the best shopping areas, 15-Gault; Piazza S. Trinita, phone: 055-213 024

Suggested and Well-Rated by others:
Alle Murate, 52r Via Ghibellina, three star by Access, 15-Gault, Eyewitness good marks   
Enoteca Pinchiorri, 87 via Ghibellina (meal of a lifetime, very expensive and nearly impossible to get into.
Caffe Cibreino, Piazza Ghiberti 35(next door to costly Cibreo) (tel 055-234-1100) not too far from Santa Croce
San Zanobi, via San Zanobi, 33 red, tel. 475-286) (Mardee) several write ups
La Baruciola, 61 Via Maggio, tel. 218906 Just one street over from Piazza di Pitti.  It is the only restaurant on a street filled with antique shops. For a five course meal for two, with wine, we only spent 53,500 - 63,500 Lira ($30.00 - $35.00).  This is half of what we spent on dinner any other evening.This restaurant was not filled with tourists, although they were extremely cordial to those of us who were, asking about our travels and recommending small towns and sites to visit nearby.)

TUSCANY DINING
Suggested and Highly Recommended by Us from May of 1999:

Osteria alla Piazza, just off of the SS222/Strata Chiantigiana route near Castellina in Chianti; in small village of La Piazza, telephone: 0577-73 35 80; simply wonderful food in a great setting

OTHER TRAVEL NOTES

Venice
The water - of the river, of the sea, of the lagoon - is the main characteristic of Eastern Veneto.  Each one of the many people settlements in Venice area during the centuries have had to deal with this natural element. The real Queen of water is Venice, unique town for many reasons, not last the way it has been constructed (apart from any pittoresque suggestion) which reveals intelligence and a great architectural ability. Even simple numbers in this case take a special meaning: 411 bridges, 118 small islands, 150 channels - the "Canal Grande" is 3800 mt long - are the basis of this town miracle.Its artistical, historical and cultural treasure is due to an incredible, intricate and harmonious communication system based on water and on stones.

Ride the vaporetto-#1 - for a slow tour up the Grand Canal-#82 is the Express;  Lots of churches loaded with Tiepolos, Tintorettos and Titians, Bellinis, etc. The Accademia for classical art. Walk across the canal on the wooden Accademia Bridge and on the shop laden Rialto Bridge. Osteria da Baco on Calle delle Rasse behind San Marco has wonderful sandwiches; La Taverna alla Fenice has the best risotto in the world. Poste Vecie in the fish market area has fabulous fish and is a real old Venetian Landmark;

Greve in Chianti
It is the largest centre in the Chianti region and its name is synonymous with good wine. In 1325, as a fortress, Greve was burned to the ground by Castruccio.  The rebuilt church of Santa Croce which houses beautiful paintings of the school of the Beato Angelico and also of Bicci di Lorenzo stands at the bottom end of the asymmetrical main square of Greve.1 km from the centre stands the Castello di Montefioralle and on the "strada chiantigiana" there is to be found the Castello di Uzzano (famous for its Chianti Classico).  Go to central square market.....stores display on the sidewalk the crafts of Tuscany:  linens, pottery/ceramics/woodwork, straw items.  Not fine but cheap fun.  Walk thru butcher shop. Visit wine shops, buy chianti.

Castellina in Chianti
Castellina is a quiet and peaceful village full of old buildings, up on a hill at 578 mt high; it is set amidst the countryside of vine-yards, olive plantations and oak woods. In XIIIth century, together with Radda and Gaiole, it was a member of Lega del Chianti, whose flags had the famous black cock, that became symbol of Classic Chianti Wine.The town preserves the typical thirteenth century plan: the beautiful castle, which now houses the Town Council, and the unique Via delle Volte, a street almost totally sheltered by vaults. Buildings such as churches, castles and farms are spread all over the charming surroundings of Castellina.

Siena . . . a Must See & Do of Tuscany!
Siena is . . . the city of the blessed Virgins and the "Balzana"; black and white; decisive, just as its heraldic symbol; passionate and contemplative; always climbing and descending; clear and at the same time obscure; steep and narrow streets; the red of the Piazza del Campo appearing blinding and suddenly. In the alleys, in the museums and oratories of the Contrada, the spiritual songs of the Palio evoke very ancient rituals and modern allegories, while during the evening the shuffling of soles on the deserted pavement is in contrast with the peacefulness of the green valleys providentially enclosed within the wall, which ancient administrators had erected hundreds of years before it became common practice. Siena is also the Cathedral and the extraordinary panorama from the Facciatone; the Sala del Pellegrinaio in Santa Maria della Scala, the Libreria Piccolomini and the prestigious Accademia Chigiana; the enormous Medicean fortress that on the inside, at the Enoteca Italiana, harbors the most precious wines of Siena, Tuscany and the peninsula; sweet-smelling Trattorias, sweet spices, the sounds of the artisans and spouting fountains; Fontebrande and the mystery of the Diana, a famous river underneath Siena; the alchemy geometry of the Piazza, suggestively neo-Gothic and cathartic. And these are the reasons why "Siena opens up its heart more than any other place," as the famous inscription reads on the Porta di Camollia.