About Christy Expertise I can answer some questions regarding freshwater fish ranging from their care to diagnosing common diseases or problems with the fish. I can also answer questions regarding the care and maintenance of an aquarium. I haven't had much luck with live plants, so can't help in that area very much. Not real good with explaining salt water or brackish set ups too well either. Also regarding goldfish, I have some comets, and have a little experience with them but mostly just general info on them. I AM NOT THAT FAMILIAR WITH ANY OF THE FANCY VARIETIES OF GOLDFISH. YOU MIGHT BE BETTER DIRECTING THOSE QUERIES TO AN EXPERT MORE FAMILIAR WITH THEM. If I can't answer or don't know something, I'll let you know, so don't be upset if I reject your question, I'll always explain why. I would just rather not answer then give an answer I'm not confident about.
Experience All personal, first hand, general fishkeeping experience. I've had fresh water aquariums now for about 7 years. I've had tropical/community fish tanks, African cichlids, South American cichlids, brackish water puffer fish, and a lot of other varieties in between.
Education/Credentials None, all personal experience
Question I have a 20 gallon tank which has been set up about 3-4 weeks I have plants 9 fish 2 snails most fish are 2 inches or smaller my pH is low at 6.0 when it used to be 7.6 these fish were moved from a smaller tank and the snails were added to new tank plants added to new tank old tank just had fish. Now my nitrite is .50and nitrate is .50 or higher I have done water changes but nitrite and nitrate stay high and pH has gone lower please help have used chemicals to lower the nitrite and nitrate hasn't worked and 2 fish have died in process
Answer Hi Latoria
Sounds like your tank is still finishing up the nitrogen cycle process. Here's a good article that explains a bit more on that:
The end stages of it, nitrites will spike high, then start falling, and nitrates will start showing up, and eventually the nitrites will go to 0 ppm. When ammonia and nitrites are at 0 ppm, and there's nitrates present, the tank is finished cycling.
Nitrates are fine, the only thing is you want to do is ideally keep them under 20 ppm-so yours is fine and no need to worry about them at this point. Ammonia is very toxic to fish, nitrites are toxic to fish as well-though not as bad as ammonia, but still not good. Nitrates are slightly toxic at higher numbers.
What chemicals are you using to "lower" the nitrites? I can't think of any that really will do that. The only one I recommend is Prime by Seachem, and it converts it to a nontoxic form without removing them, so the tank can still cycle. And, you will still show those present in the tank-because it's not removing them, kind of like a false positive.
Depending on the types of fish you have, 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt per 5 US gallons of water, dissolved in some dechlorinated water and added into the tank is good for helping the fish cope with nitrites. Tetras, loaches, plecos, catfish, or any scaleless fish are all sensitive to salt, so not a good idea to use salt with them. If you don't have those fish, go ahead and try the salt. It won't remove the nitrites, but helps the fish deal with the nitrites. Nitrites inhibit the fish's ability to absorb oxygen into their bloodstream. Something with the salt combats that.
For your ph, not sure what's going on there. I would suggest testing your water source first. Get a glass of water(assuming you're using your tap water), test the ph. Let it sit out at least 12 hours and re-test it. That should be what's going on in your tank. If it's different, then it's something most likely in your tank affecting the ph. Driftwood can lower ph, not enough surface agitation allowing the oxygen to get into the water and release CO2 that's built up in the water, excess waste in the substrate can lower ph. Best way to increase the ph is to add some limestone rock to the tank or crushed coral in a filter media bag into the filter. This will help buffer the water, and keep it more stable. Also, be sure your water level is at least 1/2-1 inch below the filter waterfall/output area to allow the best surface agitation.
So....if you have all "safe fish" not on that list, try the salt. Or, go with the Prime by Seachem option to neutralize the nitrites. If you go that route, be sure to add it to the tank every 24 hours, because it dissipates after that time.
Check your tap water ph to see if it's your water source or the tank that's the problem.
And, your tank is almost done with that cycle process, or it sounds like it anyway. So don't fret, it's almost over :)
Good luck and let me know if you have more questions.