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Hair
Hair  
QUESTION: Hello..:)
I am trying to get my hair to a Platnium /white...
I have very light goldish blonde now at this point..but can't seem to get it over the edge to the platuim /white that I want.. I have tried a few different white toners..as well as purple and blue shampoos..all seem to deposit a greyish..or purplish tone instead of the white I am after.. :(
I thought maybe it was because I was missing some red pigment in my hair,so I coloured it this light golden colour it is now and tried the white toners again....but they still pull grey and purple...
Do I need to bleach it again to lift this colour out to get to the white I want? I have wella t18 lightest ash blonde toner... That I read on reviews will get me the white I want..but not sure how to proceed prior to applying it so I do indeed get the desired effect...I read it can pull ash and purple too.. I am attaching a picture I just took of my hair from profile...it was taken outside in natural light..I hope it works,hard to take a good picture with an ipad...lol.
Thanks a lot for any help.

ANSWER: Hi Tammy,

You look as light as can be to me. Sometimes you really need to be careful. While trying almost the impossible, by doing the service over again, what you are doing is applying layers of color, only to work extra hard to remove them later for toning.

The other thing is, that as you continue to lighten your hair, you are causing porosity damage and your toners will not work. I use a toner made by It&lyhairfashion, the line is called DelyTone. I use their 9A, and I have found that it gives me the best looking white I can achieve.

The other thing is that since, porosity, and the amount of gold left in the hair and also the texture of your hair, all will account for the final results. From the picture you sent, it looks like you have beautiful hair (I also love your hairstyle!) it seems to be a soft texture and I don't see too much gold.

Back in the old days, we used to put a drop.....and I mean a DROP of black toner in the shampoo to get that white. But you had to be careful since it can go ash or gray in a second.

Tammy, this ordeal of yours is one that even many hairdressers have a problem with. And on the internet, there seems to be a lot of wrong advice. Let me address the purple or blue shampoo situation. These shampoos when they come in contact with gold, will absolutely give you the results you are getting, too much purple or a blue/ashy effect. Blue or purple and yellow will create a grayish cast.

Trying to achieve white is normally not done at home, it is a difficult task. However, the only way to achieve the results you need is to lighten your hair to the highest possible lightness and than applying your toner....which is what you are doing, but it's a fine line! There is no right answer here, and you will not even find it out in cyber land because every Tom, Dick and Harry has a different product they like. The final results will vary from person to person.

I'm just curious as to why you are not seeking a hairdresser in the city you live in and have this done by a professional before you get to damage your hair.

In ending, the reason you are not achieving your color is simply this, you may not be lightening it to the point of removing unwanted warm tones, and the purple shampoos are just adhering to the gold and becoming more visible than the white you seek. Also...how long is the bleach on your hair? Don't go past 50 minutes and use a higher level of peroxide...minimum 30Volume.

I wish you the best, and be kind to your hair!

Nick

P.S. Have you gone to a Sally's Beauty supply and asking one of the pros there to examine your color and help you with your issue? Since they can see and feel your hair, it is much more likely that they can seel you something you need.



---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

Platunium
Platunium  
Front
Front  
QUESTION: Hi Nick...
Thanks for your reply...
I have been seeing a professional hair dresser.... I am just getting frustrated with her results.
This is why I have taken to trying myself to get it to the white/platinum that I want. She keeps putting foils in my hair and each time only taking it down 1 or two levels at a time with colour... I don't think she has even tried to just bleach it... She puts I two or three different colour blonde foils saying we will get there eventually ... Last time I was there she said that my hair was the palest blonde she had...
So...when I did my own procedure as I already described to you...this is the lightest I have gotten it..and I think I have almost got it to that white stage I want...
After I read your letter I started to worry that maybe I should see my hair dresser again....maybe she will be upset that I fooled with my hair..I am not sure.. But I "really" feel it needs one more bleaching and I am going to ask her to do that..and to use my toner the wella t18 ...my appointment in on the 18th. I just don't think she understands my idea and her idea of platunium ... Or maybe she doesn't know how to get past a level 9/10 to a level 12.
I do get her to do Trisolo treatment on my hair every couple months as well....
I am including one more picture of my hair from the front taken 5 days ago...outside as well...you can see more of the gold.
Thanks so much again.

I would go to a Sally's but we haven't one here :(

ANSWER: Hi Tammy,

Did you mean Trissola Treatment, which is a Formaldehyde-Keratin based treatment. Trissola can also fade hair color. It needs to be done immediately after a color treatment and not after. Call me at work later on in the day.

914-428-3555

Nick

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

Trissolo
Trissolo  
QUESTION: Hi Nick... I am not sure of your time zone?? I am way up in
Northern B.C. Canada.. :)
I don't think I can call today as I have a long shift on Fridays,(waitress)..
But this is the treatment she does in attached picture ...I remember her telling me there was no  formaldehyde in the product.
She offers this at anytime a client wants it..she says you could do it once a month if you wanted ...or every 3 months . I have had it done 3 times ...not exactly sure is helps...lol..but sounds good.. Lol..   
Thanks
Tammy

Answer
Hi Tammy,

Yes, that is the treatment. It is free of formaldehyde and has Buriti Oil, derived from a palm fruit in the Amazons and Vitamin A, which is an anti-oxidant for your hair. All said, it is a conditioning treatment, all good, for conditioning your hair.

Here's another idea for you. Redken makes a demi-permanent glaze (Shades EQ) which we use to color hair, it's ammonia free. We use the liquid not the cream,and you need to get the developer that goes with it. (See the link below)

http://www.beautyencounter.com/buy/redken-shades-eq-equalizing-conditioning-colo

The results are a beautiful shine, especially on pre-lightened hair. I use 9V (Platinum Ice) and sometimes break it down with 9N, which is a Blonde Natural. If you use the 9V straight you might wind up with hair that is too violet/gray. So, I go on mixtures of equal parts the first time around. It works immediately and you will see results in 5 minutes, but can be left on up to 20 minutes.

These products should be available where you live, after all, you don't live in Antarctica! LOL!

I am here, if you need to ask me anything else...please don't forget to rate my answers, it helps with my "Internet" reputation.

All the best,

Nick

P.S. This is me: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CjCL58C6DNY

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Ready to color your hair, and don't have a single clue on how to start? I will try my best to guide you in your new or old hair color venture, whether you are going to a professional or trying to do it yourself. If you are going to see a professional I can help by answering all questions regarding your initial consultation, what to say to your colorist, how to describe what your wishes are and well talk about realistic expectations. Everything starts with a good conversation; learn how to discuss hair color in terms which make sense to a colorist.

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I started as a young assistant at Vidal Sassoon in 1982 and got the training that has always sustained me throughout my professional life. I first became involved in hair color in the mid 80s when I realized that my passion for painting was a vehicle understanding hair color. I joined the industry of hair color teaching and began a career as a platform artist in 1991. The next 25 years, took me across the USA and North America doing all hair shows, demonstrations on both hair cutting and hair coloring. I went from regional education, to national, eventually crossing into North America and being promoted as the USA Artistic Director for It&lyhairfashion, N.A. My hair salon is an award-winning destination for hair expertise, and I am proud to say that I have one of the most elite hair expert teams working for me.

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Modern Salon Magazine Salon and Day Spa Westchester Magazine

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Involved in hair shows and teaching professional hairdressers for over 25 years.

Awards and Honors
Best Hair Colorist of 2011 awarded by "Westchester Magazine" in New York. Featured in Modern Salon as one of the top national hair colorists.

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