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Hair Color/Shades EQ gloss fading

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QUESTION: Hi,
I have a question about Shades EQ gloss. My hair was completely my natural color, an ashy light brown/dark blonde. Then I got a half-head of blonde highlights done. 2 months later, I got a balayage highlight which added some blonde to the bottom and a few pieces on the top.

2 months after the balayage, I said I wanted a temporary glaze to have my hair look more like my natural, as I would like to grow my hair out again. She used 8N Mojave, which did resemble my natural color and didn't completely cover up my highlights (which I liked!). It is starting to fade, I can see my highlights "through" the glaze as if they are trying to come out. In the mirror sometimes I notice a greenish tinge to my hair. But then in the sunlight, I see a red-ish tinge. This drives me insane, as they are opposite colors and I don't see how it's possible (lol).

My question is this - I really would just like the shades to fade out completely. I've read "horror stories" where people claim it never faded. I would prefer not to have to re-highlight my hair to disguise the weird tones from the shades. I am going to give it at least a month to see how much it fades. I also wash my hair every day with hot water and clarifying shampoo (to help fade).

What is your experience with Shades EQ gloss, do you know particularly about Mojave 8N? Will this color leave my hair or always stay? Will my highlights break through and look somewhat normal in time? What do I do! I wish I would have left my natural alone!

Thanks,
Triss

ANSWER: Hi Triss,

Please forgive me for taking this long to answer. I am in the middle of a build out for a new salon and between contractors and a nutty designer, I have been out of touch with the personal stuff. Normally I answer in 12 hours or less.

Ok...this one is not a hard one to tackle. It is very possible to see red and green on one canvas (Head of hair).  I assume you see the green on the highlights, because it makes perfect sense that when the sunlight hits your natural hair you see the reddish tones.

I use Shades every day and 8N is used to deposit more cool blonde tones, therefore it can look a bit greenish as it fades, but IT DOES FADE. No color. unless you are using black, stays in the hair forever. Every thing else oxidizes, it's a normal process, so don't worry. Sadly, once we highlight our hair, there is nothing normal about it any longer, you have changed the shade and therefore, between shampoos and the fading you will find yourself playing a balancing act until you decide to cover it up or use a darker Shade...even a level 7 for example.

It is difficult for us to give out formulation unless we see and feel the hair. Here's something we do, but not easy for a lay person. To remove unwanted green tones a little red helps, and of course you are now warming up your color. But what's the choice, pick your poison. I use Shades Papaya 09AA mixed with a 9G Shades. Mostly 9G Vanilla Creme and a few drops of the Papaya to give it a warmer look. We do this to diffuse the green and still keep the integrity of a beautiful soft blonde. It's something to think about. Anyway....I say to my customers, "Red is a better friend than Green!" LOL!

If you get stuck, let me know!

Nick

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Nick,
Thanks SO much for your reply. I am embarrassed to be typing what I've done next because I am too impatient. PLEASE help, lol.

I went to get my hair cut by the woman who does my mom's highlights and I talked to her about my hair. She said it looked beautiful and I should leave it alone, but if I really wanted blonde back she would put some in. Of course I should have left it alone...

The highlights themselves look amazing, she did them very thin and only on the top half of my head. However.. they came out WAY TOO LIGHT, almost WHITE, looking gray next to the brown. She herself even said she saw a hue of green. It looks so weird on the rest of my hair which I already explained.

I am going to go back to the stylist and have her fix this, she is a family friend and she knows that I'm particular. She is probably awaiting my call. But I want to have my research done before I walk back into a hair salon, I want realistic expectations and some professional outside advice. Can the almost-white highlights be corrected? Can she use a gold/yellow-based toner? Do they have to be filled first? Shit.

PLEASE let me know what you know about this problem! They are too white for lowlights. I'm worried they will be too hard to tone. I just want them to be a normal blonde! 3 years ago, after a full head of highlights, I vowed to never color it again. I grew it out for 3 years (looked crazy for a while) to completely my natural light brown. Unfortunately I've started this crazy non-stop coloring cycle all over again. After I get my hair to a non-white color, I am certainly growing it out again.

Thanks for any advice you can give me....
Sorry to be one of "those" people.

Triss

Answer
Triss....Yellow alone will not do much, trust me....you need to put back what mother nature took out....you need a drop of red in here. The reason I use Papaya 09AA is because it leaves that warmer golden blonde, as opposed to anything that would look coopery. You use a blonde and a bit of the Papaya and it does the trick. I was the National Artistic Director to one of the world's leading hair color companies, I travelled all over the world, and this was my job...to fix and repair shit that people did wrong.

Nick

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CjCL58C6DNY

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The PsyCOLORgist

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Ready to color your hair, and don't have a single clue on how to start? I will try my best to guide you in your new or old hair color venture, whether you are going to a professional or trying to do it yourself. If you are going to see a professional I can help by answering all questions regarding your initial consultation, what to say to your colorist, how to describe what your wishes are and well talk about realistic expectations. Everything starts with a good conversation; learn how to discuss hair color in terms which make sense to a colorist.

Experience

I started as a young assistant at Vidal Sassoon in 1982 and got the training that has always sustained me throughout my professional life. I first became involved in hair color in the mid 80s when I realized that my passion for painting was a vehicle understanding hair color. I joined the industry of hair color teaching and began a career as a platform artist in 1991. The next 25 years, took me across the USA and North America doing all hair shows, demonstrations on both hair cutting and hair coloring. I went from regional education, to national, eventually crossing into North America and being promoted as the USA Artistic Director for It&lyhairfashion, N.A. My hair salon is an award-winning destination for hair expertise, and I am proud to say that I have one of the most elite hair expert teams working for me.

Publications
Modern Salon Magazine Salon and Day Spa Westchester Magazine

Education/Credentials
Involved in hair shows and teaching professional hairdressers for over 25 years.

Awards and Honors
Best Hair Colorist of 2011 awarded by "Westchester Magazine" in New York. Featured in Modern Salon as one of the top national hair colorists.

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