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Hair Color/Formula?


QUESTION: First of all thank you for your time I know it is very valuable and so I will try to keep this precise. My hair colored and actually is a level 6/7 dark ash blonde. My ends are many years of coloring hair auburn and so nowthe color is very faded level 6 warm copper red with 4-5 painted highlights. My problem with getting it colored is that many times I would get "hot roots" and this is not a good look for me. I want a dark rich warm auburn/red brown like Emma Stone or Drew Barrymore. I have some Goldwell and Chi colors already. Can you please recommend a formula using professional products that will work to fix my dilemma?? Thank you again for your time!

ANSWER: Hi Mandie,

One thousand apologies for my delayed response, I am in the middle of a new business venture and it has taken all my time. Now..on to you. It would seem to me that your color knowledge is above average for a consumer. So you are already in the realm of understanding what color does to hair. Hot roots is a common issue, as many hairdressers use the target shade directly on the roots, therefore creating that hot result. First are not telling me if there is a presence of white hair, I need to know that. But let's assume there are no grays. A natural level 6/7 is not as tricky to color as one would think. I have a tendency of dropping down my root formula by one level when I fear hot roots, also, I use a 10 Volume developer instead of the 20 Volume which most people would use. Try mixing into your formula a natural shade with your red, only for the roots, and proceed on the mid shaft to ends with the desired shade. Sometimes I have used a straight level 5 red on roots and stepped up to a 6 on the rest. By the time you are ready to color, the 5 has oxidized and it matches the rest of the hair. For myself, hot roots are easy to correct only, if I can physically see and touch the hair. Porosity is also an issue....fine, thick, makes a difference on the color we use. I know this is a lot, but I hope it helps...since I cannot just give you a formula, I gave you food for thought.


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thank you for such a great idea. Now when applying the natural color to the base would you also mix in a bit of "fashion color" or at least a little bit of the desired shade to help blend everything?A thousand times thank you for your time!

Absolutely mix your fashion shade or as I call it, "my target color". The mix can be equal parts with 10 volume. This should help with the hot roots. Proceed 1" from the scalp with the desired color and do not mix with a natural. Since the scalp releases heat, when applying directly on the roots we get this hotter results from the cuticle opening up even more. As you move away into mid shaft to ends, this is no longer an issue. This is why sometimes hairdressers use a hair dryer, to insure that the color penetrates as well as it does on the roots....but at the same time, they are creating a bigger problem. (Lesson for another!)

Good Luck

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The PsyCOLORgist


Ready to color your hair, and don't have a single clue on how to start? I will try my best to guide you in your new or old hair color venture, whether you are going to a professional or trying to do it yourself. If you are going to see a professional I can help by answering all questions regarding your initial consultation, what to say to your colorist, how to describe what your wishes are and well talk about realistic expectations. Everything starts with a good conversation; learn how to discuss hair color in terms which make sense to a colorist.


I started as a young assistant at Vidal Sassoon in 1982 and got the training that has always sustained me throughout my professional life. I first became involved in hair color in the mid 80s when I realized that my passion for painting was a vehicle understanding hair color. I joined the industry of hair color teaching and began a career as a platform artist in 1991. The next 25 years, took me across the USA and North America doing all hair shows, demonstrations on both hair cutting and hair coloring. I went from regional education, to national, eventually crossing into North America and being promoted as the USA Artistic Director for It&lyhairfashion, N.A. My hair salon is an award-winning destination for hair expertise, and I am proud to say that I have one of the most elite hair expert teams working for me.

Modern Salon Magazine Salon and Day Spa Westchester Magazine

Involved in hair shows and teaching professional hairdressers for over 25 years.

Awards and Honors
Best Hair Colorist of 2011 awarded by "Westchester Magazine" in New York. Featured in Modern Salon as one of the top national hair colorists.

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