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About Dana Sear
Expertise
I can answer questions on all types of hairstyling, cutting, designing, coloring, corrective color, perming techniques,product knowledge, and in general, anything that has anything to do with hair.
Experience
I have been a designer and educator for 26 years. I have been a salon consultant for Redken, affiliate trainer for ABBA Pure and Natural and am currently a member of the design team and trainer for my company. I specialize in corrective color, perming and style support, and image updates (make overs)
Education/Credentials
I have been actively licensed for 26 years. I have a college degree in another field, and actively participate in and teach cutting, perming, coloring, and business building classes. I am a certified Redken Consultant and certified to perform and teach Chi Transformation.
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You are here: Experts > Teens > Fashion > Hairstyling > Coloring
Expert: Dana Sear - 10/26/2009
Question
If you have blond hair and are going to a rich brown, do you need to fill the hair if the color you are using has red tones/warm tones in it? i don't understand how, if its a dark rich brown, that your hair will come out a bad come out a bad color, especially if the color you are using has warm tones in it, wouldn't that basically be the filler?
Answer
Hiya Ash.
Sometimes. If the hair needs filler, and you just opt to use a brown with extra warmth in it, you will get a neutral, rather rich, warm brown.
Here's why you need to fill:
Take a look at your color wheel and what each level has in it.
Natural Hair Level Underlying pigment Parts per pigment
10 Lightest Blonde Y 1 part Yellow
9 VeryLight Blonde YY 2 parts Yellow
8 Light Blonde YYY 3 parts Yellow
7 Medium Blonde YYY 3 parts Yellow
R 1 part Red
6 Dark Blonde YYY 3 parts Yellow
RR 2 parts Red
5 Lightest Brown YYY 3 parts Yellow
RR 2 parts Red
b ½ part blue
4 Light Brown YYY 3 parts Yellow
RR 2 parts Red
B 1 part Blue
3 Medium Brown YYY 3 parts Yellow
RRR 3 parts Red
B 1 part
2 Darkest Brown YYY 3 parts Yellow
RRR 3 parts Red
BB 2 parts Blue
1 Black YYY 3 parts Yellow
RRR 3 parts Red
BBB 3 parts Blue
So, depending on the level of the light blond, when you apply the dark brown, you are still going to be missing the extra warm pigments. The extra pigments in the darker color are going to replace what's missing in the lighter color - they won't be extra - see where I'm headed with this? You'll end up with a neutral, or less warm result because you didn't replace the missing warm tones. If you fill first, however, the extra warm pigments in the darker color will actually BE extra and give you the added warmth you want.
However, you are correct in assuming that you can fill and color in one step from time to time. The reason hair comes out gray/purple/green, whatever, is because the lighter color was not filled with the missing tones, making the predominant visible tone whatever the dominant tone in the darker color is - and if you use a cool brown for example, you're going to get too cool a result.
I always fill because when I am doing a tint back, the color lasts longer and resists fadage if the hair is filled first.
Hope that helps. If it doesn't help, let me know and I'll see what else I can do for you.
dana
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