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About Dana Sear
Expertise
I can answer questions on all types of hairstyling, cutting, designing, coloring, corrective color, perming techniques,product knowledge, and in general, anything that has anything to do with hair.

Experience
I have been a designer and educator for 26 years. I have been a salon consultant for Redken, affiliate trainer for ABBA Pure and Natural and am currently a member of the design team and trainer for my company. I specialize in corrective color, perming and style support, and image updates (make overs)

Education/Credentials
I have been actively licensed for 26 years. I have a college degree in another field, and actively participate in and teach cutting, perming, coloring, and business building classes. I am a certified Redken Consultant and certified to perform and teach Chi Transformation.

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Teens > Fashion > Hairstyling > Permanent waving on natural black american hair

Hairstyling - Permanent waving on natural black american hair


Expert: Dana Sear - 6/27/2009

Question
QUESTION: I want to know what kind of results would i get if i put a alkaline(cold wave)or acid balanced wave in my 3c/4a my hair. My hair texture is fine, density medium, and wave pattern is a mix of medium-small waves and curls about the diameter of a ink pen also my hair feels silky but fizz a lot. I want my curls a little bigger but without the fizz would either of these perms do that without damaging and drying my hair. I have no chemicals or coloring in my hair. Can I achieve this without having to double process my hair with a soft curl permanent (relaxing with a thio relaxer then a thio waving solution)just rod my hair and apply waving solution

ANSWER: Hiya Jaquay,

For your type of hair, I typically use an acid wave and very large rods. The timing will be very short as well. 5 to 10 minutes. The larger rods will enlarge the curls and they will be smoother and you will get a more even curl. However, I would recommend a protein treatment between the perm solution and neutralizer.

You will still need to use some kind of curl definer or smoother to prevent the frizzies simply because curls frizz and expand in heat and humidity but it will be much easier to control

Good luck, :-)

dana

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi. What brand acid wave do you recommend. Also by large rods do you mean purple or orange or something larger or smaller than those. Thank You.

Answer
I'm excited to hear you are in cosmetology school .I have been doing hair 27 years and still enjoy going to work every day. Let me know if you need anything else.

My favorite perms are Tressa, but Iso and Redken make some good ones too. As for rod size, it depends on the length of the hair. In order to actually get a curl, the hair needs to wrap around the hair 2 to 2 1/2 times. So, for example, if the hair is 3 inches long and you use an orange rod, it is going to be wavier, rather than curly. Generally, orange would be too big, purpler would be great. However, on hair that is already curly and you only want to reform the curl, the orange might be better.

The best way to know which rod size to use is to do a test curl or two. One good way to get used to what each perm rod will do is to wrap 3 or 4 rods of different sizes on a mannequin and allow them to dry. You will be able to see how much curl you get from each size this way. Do them all on one mannequin and be sure to label each section so you can tel when you take the rods out which ones made which curl. It is worth the extra time and effort, though to do the test strand on the client.

Good luck, :-)

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