Hairstyling/Advice with Redken tintback formula
I am seeking an opinion with a redken formula that I am thinking of using on a new client.
She is a natural level 4 (1-10 hair color level) Currently she is a level 7 ash highlighted blonde with red/brassiness on zone 1. (a mess) She has fair skintone and hazel eyes. (I'm confident she can carry warmth)
Please click on the link below to view her new color of choice:
(jennifer lopez/warm caramel)
The original formula for this is color fusion 1oz 7av+ 1oz4gb with a 20 vol pro-oxide, plus highlights (the client does not want me to highlight her hair she just wants permanent color. she would like to grow her highlights out). Then the glaze used in the original formula above is shades eq 1oz 09gb buttercream + 1oz 07g saffron.
Now this is my plan to achieve a successful tintback:
Correct to remove brassiness with:
1oz09NA+1/2oz 06na+1/2oz shades eq clear with 2oz 10 vol developer(I will be correcting with shades eq cream. I believe this formula will restore the clients blonde color, maintain her level 7 and remove the brassiness)Please advise if I am incorrect.
Fill with: 1oz 07curry shades eq + 1oz 05g caramel shades shades eq (is this too dark of a fill formula for her? If so what would you recommend)
Color with: Color Fusion 1oz7n + 1oz4gb + 2oz 10vol developer. I will finish by using the same glaze as the original formula. (I am considering to maybe lighten up the glaze formula with 1oz crystal clear to ensure exact color cause the glosses tend to be dark..After viewing the photo above do you think I should lighten up the glaze?)
I have changed the 7av to 7n to avoid turning the highlights an unwanted color (since im coloring over them) plus im hoping they give a nice suttle look if they show through (do you think this is best? If not please advise). Throughout the whole ordeal I will treat her hair with Redken chemistry to add protein and moisture before and after the application. I am hoping this works. Please let me know your professional thoughts and input on all three formulas. Thank you in advance for your professional advice.
Sorry for my delayed response. There's been a lot going on with weather and internet service, as you know.
After reading your second note and seeing the pictures (thank you for the update) it totally changes things. In fact, from what I see, it makes things easier for you. My forst thought was that if she wanted Jeniifer Lopez's colour, she would not get that with just colour and no highlights. The effect in the picture is basically Ombre technique, given the additional ligtness at the ends. This is no just solid colour, so she muct be aware that this is not what she will have.
Your planning is very adept and shows a great deal of thought. I don't use Redken colour so cannot speak to specific formulation, but can still advise. If you are going to fill or repigmantize before colouring or tinting back, there would be no need for the formula to remove brassiness. Although your thought process is correct for the brass removal, I would suggest that more if the brass removal was your main objective. For this it would have been an unneeded step. For the filler, you are almost correct. YOur filler should contain a combination of red and gold a level lighter than your final colour. Your formula is only a half level lighter. Although it may work, I'd lighten it by just a half level to be certain.
Now, to address what you are really working with. Since she has added colour herself and the pictures don't show the true colour, from what you said, here are some suggestions.
If she is currently still at all lighter than the final desired result, then use the filler as discussed and your aforementioned colour formula. If it is at all darker, you'll have to apply a lightener to lift it JUST enough for the desired colour. Then fill and colour as discussed.
If you are lightening, I would even lighten the ends a little extra. Then, even after filling and colour, they will be slightly lighter, almost giving that Ombre effect like the picture.
You are also correct to condition throughout. You have a firm grip on your craft, without a doubt.
Best of luck to you,